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Dual Circuit Brakes.....
Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 10:28 pm
by Devilrod
Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 10:43 pm
by mrs ratbox
the hardest thing about setting up the HQ type i've done is making new brake pipes and no probs with hinge, the spring just touches on the master cylinder but that's it
all you have to do is die grind the hole in the firewall bigger and drill 2 holes and the master cylinder is on, hook yor front brakes only up through the booster, and then but not overly important but an improvement use drum brake rear wheel cylinders instead of disc brake cylinders this meens you also have to change the rear shoes aswell
a very easy conversion
Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 10:47 pm
by Devilrod
Thanks Rat, although one question do you need to change the rod coming from the brake pedal length wise?
Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 11:05 pm
by mrs ratbox
nup just adjust it
duel circit brakes
Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 11:07 pm
by Malcolm
Hey DR,
I don't know if your auto or manual but the system I used is brilliant. Probably more stuffing around that you want to do but, the booster is a small unifit from Hoppers and a Holden duel circit unit from a HJ. The pedal I mounted in the center of the original pedal housing and made another hole in between the two original ones. My brake test on the weekend by the engineer was very impressive.
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 8:17 am
by rosco
Hi DR,
Thank goodness no damage was suffered - and yes, your post was beginning to read as if external intervention was the route cause........... I'd be looking for marks around where the bolts were fitted........sorry - I am naturally suspicious............
Yes, it is very much a concern of mine that I use a single line circuit.
Unfortunately, mine is manual and I don't want to fit an extended boxed section to get clearance from the hinges............. I have seen modified hinges at the nats and will probably go this way eventually............ unless a small diameter "assisted" and not "servo" master setup can be found and fitted.
I usually coat the threads of critical bolts/nuts with Loctite 262. It's just me, but I feel a bit more comfortable in doing this.
I have no experience with any dual circuit system - I do run the smaller rear wheel cylinders with the HR disc fronts............... I have no understanding or figures for proportions using other than recommended.
frats,
Rosco
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 10:51 am
by mrs ratbox
rosco you need the disc cylinders on the rear if you have disc front or you'll get rear lockup when brakes applied hard
so with the setup i mentioned as the booster only runs the front brakes by putting the drum rear cylinders it ups the breaking of the rear to compensate a little
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 12:29 pm
by Devilrod
I run the smaller diameter too Rosco.
So Rat if the back were to be boosted would the smaller diameter ones be best to use?
It would pretty much replicate the setup I have now just dual boosted circuits, or am I missing something critical? Not too sure with brakes like Rosco I just used the recommended bits.
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 6:01 pm
by ekdave1962
i spoke to guy at hopper stoppers other week he said they had a nissan master cyclinder that would bolt straight on to the ek without any mods $220 new .. he did say fittings would have to be modified for metric and rear wheel cyclinder should be the larger drum type ..
but if a hq one bolts on with only a small mod, it seem the way to go ..
seems the school of thought has changed i take it with dual systems u . dont boost the rear and use drum wheel cylinders .. i have not done mine yet but a engineer i spoke to wanted me to fit duals for safety reasons and devil has just pointed out a valuable lesson for all of us for the small amout of work and cost .. DUAL ..
David
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 7:38 pm
by rosco
Hi Dave,
you may have given me my next refurb - does the Nissan master/booster fit whilst using the hydraulic clutch master?
My brakes work very well, but I will fit a dual system when I can find the required components and answers.
Thanks - perhaps I should do a run around the Bay and drop in to Hoppers...... if I ever get this old bus back down off the blocks.................
frats,
Rosco
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 7:44 pm
by mrs ratbox
yes i guess you would leave the small cylinders cause they would then also be boosted
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 7:49 pm
by Trev
Hey Brett, I have a HQ master cylinder and the same remote booster as yours, boosted front only though.
The easiest way to do the lines is get some normal wire and bend it to the shape and length you need, take these wires to a break specialist who will make the line for you with the ends attatched, then bend them to fit your car.
Took me about 1 day to do, easy Trev

.
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 8:35 pm
by mrs ratbox
trev sounds like you have the setup i described, isn't easy
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 11:13 pm
by Devilrod
Dual circuit is the way to go though. I think what I have now is basically an LH Torana setup only single circuit. Had to say exactly as I bought it all off a mate who got me everything I needed.
I do have the brakes all sorted for the time being though. Just finished bleeding them not too long ago. It must have been metal fatigue, as it was the same side on which 3 wheel studs failed. I think the diff I got had been sitting in water at some stage as one side was way worse than the other. Other side seems fine, fingers crossed all is good for now.
When I originally did the brake lines on the EK the brother in law was working for Pirtek

Not now though

Thanks for the help guys. Its on the list of things to do...
Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 8:29 am
by Blacky