fbekholden.com

is it easily fixable? if so, how much would you guys pay to have it done? blacky do you know anyone capable in perth who will do a good job?

thanks for your support for a young fb fan to date
Andrew

alot of it looks like you could easily do a temp tidy up useing a wire wheel on a drill or grinder some kill rust stuff bit of a wipe of nikky will tidy it up till you have money for a more permanent fix
also none of it looks real hard to fix they are all sections you can buy

Andrew, She's still shiney so what are you worried about
No Ratbox is right , A little tidy up with a scraper and wire wheel, just to how bad it is, Then take the next step.
To remove the paint you can purchase whats know as Fleece or Wooly wheel, which looks like a huge scotch brite tangle and glued together to fit a drill or angle grinder. These pads are excellent for paint removal without damage to metal. Clean out all the loose flaking stuff and use a grinder to do the rest, then treat it with a well known brand rust convertor. Then trim and fit panels or repair sections using 0.8 mm Zincaneal and weld em in. Or reofill and bog then sand, which ever takes your fancy or MONEY and patients. Then slap some more shiney stuff on her, or if your like the Rat!, hit her with some flat.
If you do it yourself Take your time and complete 1 panel then move onto the next 1.

Regards John

i think i could do the sills, but the top of the guard, below the rear window and the dog legs would need to be done really well.... if i try it, and stuff it, can a pro just work from there? do i have anything to lose by trying?

Andrew,
The only thing you'll lose is experience! We all have to start somewhere, If you give it a go and don't succeed at least you know what to do next time. A pro should be able to fix anything you throw up at them. Start with the sills to get your confidence up. Beat the sills and there's nothing stopping you.
Cheers Theo z.......................

Mate, give it a quick touch up and drown it in fishoil or cavity wax so it doesnt get any worse and leave it until next winter, dont go taking it off the road with the cruising season almost upon us
I know a bloke in Kelmscott who would take a look at it for ya , but like the others are saying , youve gotta start somewhere so have a go at the easy stuff yourself.

G'day Austmod, the rust in the old girl isnt that bad, just grab a good wire wheel on a drill and hit the rust with it, then when its all clean treat it with a rust converter, preferably something that is posferic acid based. This should help slow the cancer down, then once its dry give it a sand and spray some cold gal or zinc primer on the rusty bits, this should also help slow the rust as it will seal the metal then just get into the old girl, you could weld or use metal filler to fix holes, but remember that replacing with steel will last longer and won't crack. I have been a spraypainter for 13 years and I work on the theory that if you f...k it , you fix it . Just have a crack and you will see that when its finished it was worth it, Cheers PAT

I'm no panelbeater/spraypainter but I've used Blackys method of fish oil over the years on my rusty cars with great success.Clean it up as much as you can and drown the rust with it.Let it dry and the rust won't start moving for a long time once you bog and paint.
Rust converter is great as well, as others have said, but my preference is fish oil.
I've even used gear oil diluted 50/50 with petrol and squirted it in hard to get places with one of them $1.00 water sprayers on an old 1970 XW Fal#on work car I had years ago and it stopped the rust for yonks.

Eventually you will have to replace the rust with metal but you can slow the rust process using any of the method's mentioned here whilst you save to have it done professionally if its a bit too much for you.

Have a go with the convertor or fish oil.You can't really hurt it and you might be amazed with your new found ability.

Cheers,

Terry.

One word of advise,

Because you are young and full of enthusiasm if you take the car off the road you wont get it back on again for a long time (except if you hate partys chicks and rock and roll!)
Live your life and do bit by bit while your driving the beast.
I took my car off the road 15 years ago for a little tidy up, got married built a house had kids drunk lots of beer whilst the car sat looking sad.
I was lucky and didnt sell it so Im back on track again.


Regards Greg

For the sills, get a cheap garden sprayer bizzo from Bunnings- the ones you pump up and spray weedkiller etc, with and a length of reticulation pipe and a 360 degree nozzle.
Make the retic pipe fit onto the sprayer by whatever means , fill the sprayer with fishoil and drill a 3/8" hole in the end of your sill in front of the rear wheel.
Poke the retic pipe up the sill until it gets all the way to the other end of the sill i.e. under the A pillar, pump up the sprayer and spray the fishoil whilst slowly pulling the retic pipe out.If you do it right fishoil should piss out of the sill so do it on the lawn. While you are at Bunnings buying the sprayer and nozzle buy some 3/8" rubber bungs and some spray cans of underbody schutz. Fit the bung, spray over it with lots of body schutz, drink some beer and marvel at how clever you are

Thats a bloody good idea blacky, I might try that method myself................ or it is copyrighted??

Cheers,

Terry.

thanks guys, you can always help me with my questions! such a wealth of info here

Terry, I thought of it first , if you use it I will leave a note under your windscreen next time I see your car

Yeah but if I change the colour then that isn't copying .......................................... apparently!!

Terry

Hey Aus,

You can also plug the sill drain holes drill some holes beneath the scuff plates then fill the sills with your old sump oil.Leave for a while then drain-no more rust thru!

PS don't drain the oil on the driveway.