Page 1 of 1

MOLASSES

Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 5:13 pm
by Lex68
G'Day FBEK'rs

We have all come across components that show obvious signs of rust and various degrees of penetration and how to deal with. I know there are other posts referencing the use of Molasses and it's use for de rusting components.

So........I researched ways to de rust and the process of Molasses caught my eye, and, in particular a yuotube post that this bloke did experimenting with various products.

Longer story short....I buy Molasses from my local farm produce store at $6 for 2 ltr, this is thick stuff and requires dilution. This is what I do:

If the component has dirt and grease this needs to be removed,

If the component has surface rust molasses will eat this stuff off in no time,

If the component has deeper rust it will require a longer soak time,

If your component is thin and pretty much penetrated with oxidation the molasses will eat it all, leaving holes or consuming the whole piece given enough time,

Oh yeh when removing the two manifolds....Heads sheared off!.....drilled out threads and tap !!!

I leave my stuff submerged for at least a week, you will see progess within a day or two and this is typically indicated by a foamy froth on the liquid surface,

I then pressure hose the component, this will leave bare metal and while drying flash oxidation usually occurs,

I then brush a thin film of Bondall- Ranex Rust Buster (phosphoric Acid) on the component as this converts it in front of your eyes, let dry, then primer as soon as you can.

I have done many items like this, IT WORKS and IT'S CHEAP !!!

Beers n Cheers

Re: MOLASSES

Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 5:22 pm
by Blacky
Yeah its good stuff, as long as you dont live in a home unit !!!

Re: MOLASSES

Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 6:02 pm
by Trev
Looks great.
I've got citric acid to do rusty parts, yet to do any but I've seen evidence of it working well.

Re: MOLASSES

Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 8:20 pm
by Lex68
Trev wrote:Looks great.
I've got citric acid to do rusty parts, yet to do any but I've seen evidence of it working well.
Yeh, I usually hit the light stuff with my rust buster and leave the soaking stuff to Molasses in an old enamel tub.....I'm getting back into home brewing and I am aware there are recipes that use Molasses as well, I guess for the heavier full bodied beers. Mmmmmm Beeeeeeer !

Re: MOLASSES

Posted: Sat Jul 11, 2015 9:15 am
by parisian62
Good stuff Lex :thumbsup: I've used molasses too with good success. Do you remember your dilution rate?
If your component is thin and pretty much penetrated with oxidation the molasses will eat it all, leaving holes or consuming the whole piece given enough time
Too right...don't ask me how I know... :oops:

Re: MOLASSES

Posted: Sat Jul 11, 2015 4:12 pm
by GreyEJ
The first time I tried this I used Molases from the shop. I used this bottle in a huge tube. I put a whole cylider head in there that I got along with a pile of other grey bits for $20 to see what would happen. It's amazing.

The bi product does smell, but poor it on your garden and watch it flourish.

Image

Image

Image

Re: MOLASSES

Posted: Sun Jul 12, 2015 8:33 am
by Lex68
[quote="parisian62"]Good stuff Lex :thumbsup: I've used molasses too with good success. Do you remember your dilution rate?


Mate, I've read and used around 10:1 :thumbsup:

Re: MOLASSES

Posted: Sun Jul 12, 2015 8:49 am
by Lex68
And the final result...... painted with high temp paint, I'm pretty happy with that! :thumbsup:

The bi metal spring broke :thumbsdown: Does it really need this ? and just keep the valve it in the open position?

Re: MOLASSES

Posted: Sun Jul 12, 2015 9:12 am
by pauly
They came up really nice.
I used the mollasess method heaps when I was rebuilding a car a few years back. I had an old gal rainwater tank that I used. I used 1 part mollasess to 3 parts water. The best thing about using this method is when you need to change the solution you can tip the old stuff on the grass.