fbekholden.com

Hi all.
I'm hoping someone has experience with fitting the bolts for the boot springs sold by Ret and/or the FE-FC club.
I've put mine in and tensioned up the springs as much as I could. Didn't want to go too far for fear of snapping them and bits of me too.
It seems not only do they not hold the boot lid up but seem to pull it down. Pretty sure I have the springs in the right way, the way they were when I got her...
Photos of what I've done so far. Hoping someone has some tips on getting this right.
Thanks, Andrew.

Hi Andrew, just checked my springs and they are the same as yours, but mine hold the boot up. Can you or have you tried to tension them up the other way? Failing that send RET a message to see what he has to say,
Trev

Hi Andrew,
What does it look like with the spring removed, the canterlever arm shoud be slightly raised when replacing the pin. The cantelever arms drop and when you put it back together.
I done the same thing and I loaded the spring up too much and it still wouldn't hold the boot up(it seemed to be forcing it down) . Then tried the spring around the the other way without the lip to hold it in and then after a bit of brain storming pulled the pin out again to see if it would go any other way, and it did and this worked great without alot of spring tension.
I hope this helps.

cheers Rob

Andrew,

It looks like the cantilever arm is pointing the wrong way - it should be closer to horizontal than vertical. This is an easy mistake to make, as the correct layout is somewhat counter-intuitive. When it's more vertically oriented, it will be trying to force the boot-lid down.

This image here from the workshop manual shows the correct positions of the arm and spring mount:


Here's one fitted (driver's side):


Hope that gets you on your way.

cheers
RET

Yep, sounds like I've let the cantilever arms drop on installation. Didn't really have an initial reference because everything was just hanging there with some wire wrapped around it when I got her, hence the "NASCO" broomstick was employed...
I'll have another dip and report on progress.
Thanks heaps for your prompt and helpful replies.
Andrew.

Guys, your advice was spot on. Got the cantilever arms pointing the right way and not much tension needed at all on the springs.

Here is the boot lid holding itself up, with the now redundant NASCO boot lid holder-upperer in view...

Yes she needs a clean. Garage extension has just been completed, hence the shiny new walls in the background. Now I can clean her up and hopefully she will stay that way.
Again, many thanks for your help.
Cheers, Andrew.

Glad to see you've got it sorted.

Not wanting to deviate too far off topic, but I have only a few sets left. When (if) I get more, I can't guarantee that they will be the same price.

Get in touch with an instant message if you'd like to order a set.

cheers
RET

Hi gurus,
Ive been looking around trying to find some discussion about un-tensioning boot lid springs. I have to cut away and replace the bottom of rear window and parcel shelf and hinge mount on the drivers side but have been scratching my head about the spring.
I bought a spring tool thingy off evil bay but cant see how that works and the whole thing looks like its dangerous enough that I need to know what I'm doing before diving in.
Any tips appreciated.

Hold back until you get replies on how to do this, Brett... those dastardly springs will think nothing of soft flesh..... if you have ever lifted a bootlid - you'll know how heavy it is.... only two of these springs will do this and from very short leverage...... wait - and save a yourself a lot of grief.
I haven't done it, I was able to leave my assemblies fitted when I removed my bootlid.... I fear one day, the pins will wear through (common, apparently) and I'll b forced to fit the kit to both sides....

frats,
Rosco

Andrew,

You'll need to straighten some parts. You see how the spring hasn't been pushed fully onto the hinge pin? That's disaster waiting to happen. And you notice how the end of the lever isn't parallel with the cut-off end of the spring? There isn't much holding the spring in place at that end either.
Now that you've had practise de-tensioning and re-tensioning the boot spring, take the boot spring out (yes, I know, after all the effort that went into installing it). Straighten the lever arm out as best you can, so that the end the spring engages on is a right-angle to the plane of the lever arm in all three directions (x,y,z). Lubricate all the pivots well while you're at it.

Tighten the hinge pin nut a bit more than finger-tight, and get an open-end spanner in to tighten the nut up (7/8"?) Install the spring fully home on the hinge pin and locate the outer end properly in the "crook" of the lever arm. Now wind up the hinge pin. The left side is a right pain because spring torque loosens the pin. You'll have to tighten the hinge pin nut frighteningly tight to avoid the horrible "sprongggg" sound.

Brett,

Removing the boot hinge spring is a job best done at arm's length. I'd suggest putting a crowbar in between the hinge spring and the pivot pin, covering the spring with a hessian sack, and levering the spring off from a position of comparative safety. Boot lid open is the position of least stored energy, but there'll still be a mighty spronggg when it lets go.

Rob

Ok, thanks Rob. I'll get back to you in the fullness of time when I'm putting it back together.

We'll see in your reply if you have missing fingers.... or plasters on them... by the way you type (sic).

frats,
Rosco

Given the increasing pressure on medical facilities already, I will have a hard look at the possibility of leaving the hinge bracket in place and hacking off the rusty sheet metal around it. From an initial glance it looks like the spring presure is contained within the hinge housing. Not too bothered about letting the spring fly off for the dissassembly, but re-tensioning it looks like a tricky task. Will see.

I've got a complete hinge and spring assembly if you need it Brett. I think passenger side with the spare wheel retainer mount.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Thanks Clay, much appreciated, but fortunately I also have a spare for each side. I had another look and I'm going to try and leave the existing one (drivers) attached to the wheel arch and work around the top section under the parcel shelf. As an aside, I went out early this morning and got spare gas and wire, and all the paint requirements to get her body finished and painted in the Cvirus season even if everything is shut down... committed to Fernando Yellow and Arctic Beige now!