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rust repair costs
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 9:47 pm
by (AUST)Mod
hey guys, just got a heap of new floor pans put into the fb, as well as the inside of the passengers side rear door welded up as per the licensing centers instruction. my car is now rust free down below, but the body is still abit bubbly. can anyone tell me a fair price to get the following rust repaired and resprayed? i dont really mind it if is bogged, just as long as it lasts until i do a full revamp of this car in the future, maybe 5 years or so when i get out of uni
thanks
Andrew
ps thanks for all of your help regarding the diff and aircon, you have proved to be the greatest blokes ever
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 10:04 pm
by xxl
mate,I've got my wifes car in the shed doing a v6 conversion and we've just made new inner sills out of 1.6 and done new floors etc.Your more than welcome to come down and have a look. I own KRL ALLOY at u6/31 william st beckenham.We can quote on your car if you like
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 10:09 pm
by (AUST)Mod
sure will do as soon as its rego'd. maybe thurs fri next week? cheers ANdrew
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 10:36 pm
by xxl
too easy mate-I'm always bloody there!!!
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 10:52 pm
by Trev
I know a guy that just got some rust fixed like that and it cost him $300, not bad I think
,
Trev
Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 2:57 pm
by (AUST)Mod
car not rego'd yet as we dont have official papers saying that we own the car. we bought it from a family friend in melb, so will get proof soon and will be cruisin to school in it soon. will be ou tto krl alloy as well for a quote:)
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 3:53 pm
by (AUST)Mod
coupons
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 4:20 pm
by rosco
Hi Andrew,
I would expect after a shock like that, any other quote is going to appear a blessing.
My opinion is that you will kill that quote............. it doesn't have to look pretty to pass an inspection......... at least I don't believe it does.
This is the first time I have seen your pix............ if I ever learn to post pix, I think the administrators will block my posts..................... typing is bad enough.....................
Check to two drains at the bottom of each side of the rear quarter panels............ they can be found quite easily from underneath - bit tricky to find if you look into the boot.
Rear sill - you may wish to take your rear seat base out and take a peek in from there - from memory, there was an access hole into that part of the dogleg - I know it isn't accessible from within the boot.
I would have to get my pix out to see about that access hole - it was many, many years ago since I have looked in there.
If the wheel arch covers (over the tyre) have been punctured/rusted/opened - it may be a source for crud and water to drain down into the rear of the sills............ I have drilled small drainage holes on the lower inner parts of those doglegs.
There are also four drains at the bottom of each sill, some of mine were spot welded together by I would expect someone who was under instruction on the assembly line............. they are now open and I have also drill a number of small holes to supplement them...............
Rear window - usual lugie............ it seems to have been "worked" and filler has let paintwork go. It may just be a rough up and etch/prime/top coat.
Can patch it up fairly easily, but window really needs to come out for permanent fix if there is a problem in the cavity recess ............ the recess around the window traps water/crud into the channel just above where your problem seems to be - probably got a musty smell when the car gets wet..............no big deal - money can fix most things..........but later...............
$2 K - wow - I'm giving up driving trains.............. and I'd actually get to sleep in ..............my self addressed philosophy "a hobby should never become work.... some of mine have in the past and I usually don't stay in them long after that..........."
Keep us posted, fairly confident others may have good news for you..
frats,
Rosco
rust
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 7:51 pm
by karsten
yeah right on rosco i compleatly concure, a flat head screwdriver or a hacksaw blade : rapped in tape at one end is a cheap drain cleaner outara and there is a hole in the back pillar around the door striker from memory ,which sux big time cause i was sanding there a few days back, fill it with fish oil or cavity wax after you repair the rust the drains need cleaning lots if you drive on wet dirt roads eva back bit near rear screen looks like it was not cleaned properley
