fbekholden.com

So i got to work this morning around 8:30-9:00ish...
Three hours later i was out front having a smoke and heard a hissing noise coming from my car. I look over and there's fluid dripping out from underneath.
I popped the bonnet and at first it appeared to be coming from the gearbox, but then i noticed a slight bubbling hissing coming from the coil which is mounted on the firewall above the dizzy. The fluid was actually coming out of the coil/lead plug and dripping down.
As stated before, the car had been parked for three hours, the motor was cold but the coil was hot to touch.
WHAT THE HELL???

I just went out to have another look and the thing was almost on fire!!
Disconnected battery and all is ok now.
By the way it's a GT40 coil.

Never seen anything like that before! I'd be checking the wiring and that your ignition is actually off??!!

What sort of car is it? Sounds like it isn't an FK with the coil mounted on the firewall?

The coil dying like that by getting hot and leaking oil isn't really uncommon, but like Devilrod said, it sounds like the coil is still getting current with the ignition off. That can't be good!

Forgot to ask; it's not an old Brit positive ground car is it?

leave the key on did we??
i have seen a few coil's 'pop' with the ignition left on and the motor not running

Rob

fb delivery wrote:leave the key on did we??
i have seen a few coil's 'pop' with the ignition left on and the motor not running

Rob

That would be my guess.

MeFB: it's an EK mate, the previous owner changed the location of the coil.

Yep, left the ignition on after i went out to get a cd out of the player
Seems it had the wrong coil to begin with, GT40R instead of GT40.

So i went to Burson and replaced the coil (thanks Rob) but it still won't start.
I touched around with my cheap little test light with the ignition on acc., i have no idea which things i should be checking but i tried the rotor button- nothing. I tried the points- nothing. I tried the negative terminal on the coil- nothing. But when i tried the positive terminal i got a light.
So, does this mean i'm not getting power from the coil to the dizzy?
I hope so, because then i know what i need to replace...

Hey Skindog.
The fact you are getting juice in one side and the the negative is measuring zero volts means you are passing current through the coil. Assuming you have the correct coil now, and its not rooted, the next step is to check the points are opening off. That's when the magic happens. Points closed, the negative side of the coil is grounded, allowing current to flow through the low tension part of it. Points open, the current is switched off, the magnetic field collapses and this is induced in the HT side of the coil, and is passed through the HT lead to the dizzy. In the form of thousands of volts. (Spark)
to test:
IGNITION OFF! (It hurts more when your heat hits the bonnet!)
Make sure the points still open and close as you rotate the motor by hand. If your meter has a resistance setting, then check the negative side of the coil is switching to ground (via the points) when the points close. You may have burnt points or a burnt flex.
I'll also assume you set a reasonable dwell angle on the points.
Assuming the coil you have (now) does not need a ballast resistor, then the positive side of the coil will be at +12 volts with the ignition on.
Grab a spare spark plug and rest it against the motor or any handy ground, with the HT lead going from the plug to the coil.
Keep clear of the spark plug and wires!
Get someone to crank the motor. You should get a nice spark on the plug 3 times per engine revolution. If not, your coil might be crook. An ohm-meter will confirm this, a buggered coil is usually open circuit across the LT winding.

This is a good read also:

http://home.mindspring.com/~purlawson/f ... itions.pdf

Hey, Bluehaze, do you thunk the condenser would short-out the points if it was damaged at the same time as the coil? Just wondering if the condenser is knackered and the coil thinks the points are constantly closed

skin_dog wrote:Seems it had the wrong coil to begin with, GT40R instead of GT40.

Arrrggghhhhh! Missed the obvious

You need the same coil as the one you fried. You can't just swap Bosch GT40 with a GT40R because the GT40R needs a ballast resistor to work, and the GT40 won't work with one

I'd be guessing the points will have fried to. Check they are opening like bluehaze described. If need be pull them out and check them, then drop 'em in and regap.

By the fact the coil failed in such a spectacular way in the first place, I'm gonna guess the original GR40r was running without a ballast resistor. If you've now got a GT40, then you're on the right track.
Testing the points in situ saves the trouble of re-gapping and re-doing the timing. It's a possibility the condenser is shorted now. (Forgot there is a condenser,- been too long with my whizz-bang electronic ignition). If you don't have an ohm-meter, you can see if its shorted by attaching the tester to the negative of the coil with the points open. The lamp should be on until the points are closed.
If you've already changed out the points, then setting the dwell and checking the timing will be important once it's running.
If you are un-familiar with how ignition systems work in cars, this system (known as the Kettering system) is a great way to get started. If you look up Kettering ignition on the interwebs, I'm sure you'll find stuff which will explain how it works. If you're planning on roadside repairs (who plans those?!) then a cheap multimeter might be handy, too.

MeFB: as Bluehaze assumed, i don't have a ballast resistor so i think (AND HOPE!!) i have the correct coil now, thanks mate.

Bluehaze: I really appreciate the informed response, it makes things much easier for me. However i do not have a multimeter, all i have is my little test light.
I don't like the odds of anywhere being open today but i have a spare set of points and a condenser from my ute which i did the Pertronix upgrade in.
Last night i got my wife to watch the points while i cranked it over and there was no spark. So first on the agenda today is replace points and condenser (good plan?)
If that doesn't work i'll throw some things around and moan and groan for a bit, have a drink and a smoke, then come back on here.....

Thank you all very much.

skin_dog wrote:MeFB: as Bluehaze assumed, i don't have a ballast resistor so i think (AND HOPE!!) i have the correct coil now, thanks mate.

Bluehaze: I really appreciate the informed response, it makes things much easier for me. However i do not have a multimeter, all i have is my little test light.
I don't like the odds of anywhere being open today but i have a spare set of points and a condenser from my ute which i did the Pertronix upgrade in.
Last night i got my wife to watch the points while i cranked it over and there was no spark. So first on the agenda today is replace points and condenser (good plan?)
If that doesn't work i'll throw some things around and moan and groan for a bit, have a drink and a smoke, then come back on here.....

Thank you all very much.

Sounds like you should be right if you swap out the fried points and condensor.