fbekholden.com

Hi all,

Sorry for all the annoying questions, I promise this to be my last for a few months.

I am in the process of stripping back the floor and welding in the new replacement panels, I was initially thinking of painting them with deadener then putting dynamat on top so its a nice quiet ride... Then after reading a few posts and talking to my step dad (who reckons the car will fill up with water when driving in the wet) I am reconsidering this.

What are peoples opinions on how to seal up and insulate the floor and stopping the r#$t coming back???

Now i am thinking deadener on the underside and cold Gal on the upper areas with plain old carpet underlay and carpet, that way if the floor gets wet, i can lift them out and let it dry properly.

Looking forward to hearing back to help me make an informed decision on what to do with my EK...

Cheers
Jarvo

Dynamat it and fix the leaks ............

I have to agree with Blacky about fixing the leaks. Unfortunately this is sometimes easier said than done, and your step-dad is probably right unless you manage to chase down (and fix) all of the leaks.

Hi Jarvo
Weld in your floors, prime or paint, (when dry) sit in the car than get somebody to put the hose over the car. Find & fix your leaks before putting your trims back in.

Andy

Fixing leaks is good in theory, I thought my wagon was sealed up nice and tight with all new rubbers but our trip to Sawtell made a mockery of my efforts .
I'll bet there was only 1 car that didn't get flooded out that weekend, it was in a container .

Seal up the floor as good as you can .

No questions are annoying...

I tossed about what i was going to do for a while. This is what I ended up doing...

All floor pans had to be replaced. All welds were ground down and dressed up and sprayed with weld thru primer and or cold galvit and then a few coats of heavy duty primer. Drain holes were drilled in the new floor pans that matched the original 'tab' drain holes in the orginal pans and rubber blanking grommets used to close them up. If the car does get water in I can remove the blanking grommets to drain the water. All welded joins were seam sealed and then 2 coats of kill rust epoxy paint put on.

I couldn't afford dynamat so I went with Bostik sound deadener

http://www.bostik.com.au/industry-produ ... e_oem.html

I bought it from my local auto paint shop. Comes in sheets and has a self adhesive sticky side. Lay it out in the sun or heat it up with a heat gun so soften it up a bit before laying it down on the floor cuts very easy with a sharp stanley knife. The bostik formed fairly well to the contours of the floor but there is a small gap underneath the bostik where the channels of the floor pan are. My theory is if the water gets in it will run underneath the bostik sheets along the floor channels and out the drain holes I have drilled...just a theory...

I then bought 1 roll of dynaliner for $90? and put that on top of the bostik deadener just on the firewall and some front floor sections.

I putting in all new door rubbers and if they keep the water out that will be a bonus...

Hope that helps

Stewart

jarvo wrote: putting dynamat on top so its a nice quiet ride...

Don't buy Dynamat! I sell a similar product (even weighs the same) that's less than half the price.
Sound Deadener 10 metres by .3 metres (3 square metres) $120 per roll $20 registered post

thanks guys... still not sure which way to go but you have all definitely given me some sound advice and i will try to do the best i can... will stay away from Dynamat and might be contacting you Stinky at some point to chat about your gear...

Cheers
Jarvo

stinky
Sorry Jarvo but you will want to know as well
How much of your stuff stinky do we need to do a sedan approx
BILLY

Depends, I think the sedan floor is roughly 1.5 metres wide, but then you need to measure from where you want to start and finish.
A roll is 3 metres square, so you'd get 2 metres coverage front to back of the floor at 1.5 wide.

Hey Stinky,

I'm just about to purchase Dynamat as well. Can you tell me what the difference between your product and Dynamat is (other than the price ; ).

I'll certainly support a forum member and his/her business ... just like to make an informed choice

Cheers.

Danny

I read an article on Dynamat in a Rodders Journal and was very surprised. Never realized you need two to three layers if you want sound and heat resistance....it doesn't do it all different types for different uses. How's the stuff you sell Stinky? Does it do heat and noise?

I bet the non dynamat product doesn't have that creepy dis-embodied head of Chip Foose on the box...

The gear I am selling is designed as a roof sealer, inspired by this post - http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/show ... &showall=1
I decided to investigate, whilst I don't have extensive testing facilities, I can say that the stuff I sell is :
- 30cm wide x 10 metres long (3m square)
- a full roll weighs 5.7 kg
- the foil and bitueminous layer are 1.2mm thick (seems to be a little thinner than Dynamat Xtreme but I haven't measured)
- Designed for Australian House Roofs, so heat resistance won't be a problem and claims it stick to most clean surfaces.

I currently have 3 rolls in stock, one is going to a customer, one for my FC Pano and the other to seal the peak in my Garage where all the dust and gumnuts come through