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Yesterday morning when I started the EK for the first time I noticed a grinding sound/feel while I cranked the starter and it laboured as though it had a flat battery. But the motor caught and apart from one cylinder missing which it has been doing a bit lately it ran fine all the way to work.
When I tried to start it that afternoon it again did the strange grinding thing briefly and then turned to clicking the solenoid. Jump starts and push starts were no help- I did the hammer on the starter trick as well as tried to short start it. Overnight I came to the conclusion that the starter motor had either jammed on the flywheel or had just plain shat itself. ( This didn't explain not being able to push start it though)
So this morning I went and removed the starter and happened to run into one of the yard mechanics while I was there - he tested my starter motor and confirmed it was u/s. Then he turned it over by hand and engine seemed to be okay- so I put in a working starter and tried again- now the engine turns "freely" but the grinding is still there and the motor almost fires on about two cylinders and won't start now. Any ideas? (Ive already come up with sticking a red in!)

Jake,

Did your mechanic drop the end cover off the starter and check the brushes sounds like the brushes are arcing out and need replacing (probably pay to skim the commutator as well). Chances are you've put another second hand starter in with similar problems as the one you took out, when they arc out you'll lose voltage at the coil making it hard starting.
Check to see which of the two starters is in better condition and spend the money on a set of brushes etc, from what you've described I'd be focusing on the starter motor.

Mick

Chances are you've put another second hand starter in with similar problems as the one you took out,

Cheers Mick, that would seem to make sense

Check to see which of the two starters is in better condition and spend the money on a set of brushes etc,

-still undecided if I will persevere with the grey- if i do that will be the first thing I look at- in the mean time could I confirm that by checking volts at the coil while I'm turning it over?


Cheers, Jake

Jake,

Before you overhaul the new starter, try to run start it again - even if the starter brushes are shagged, she should still run start. One cylinder missing could be a simple plug or lead issue, or could be something more sinister in the dizzy/timing startign to appear that is causing the non-start.

Cheers,
Harv.

Harv,

You are probably right, just reread Jakes first post and I didn't read where it wouldn't start with a push start ruling out the starter (although the clicking grinding still sounds like an arcing starter motor) its always hard without seeing/hearing the engine yourself.
Maybe the dissy has moved or as you said faulty lead,try starting/running it at night or in a dark shed and lift the bonnet you'll see if the leads are arcing and creating a misfire.

Mick

Hi guys, recently replaced plugs leads dizzy cap and rotor button- just remembered why ! Last time the car wouldn't start it was breaking rotor buttons so that they slipped on the shaft- apart from the grinding it is behaving the same as it did last time - will check rotor is not shagged again- in any case the starter was kaput- I'm just getting two issues for the price of one!! I think Mick highlighted earlier that working with secondhand parts doesn't Make it any easier

Wasnt rotor button - but flat out with work for the next fortnight so she's getting pushed in the garage for a while