fbekholden.com

as the topic suggests i'm after a pair of hq rotors redrilled to early holden pattern.
cheers, luke.

G'day Luke,

I've also been doing a bit of chasing for some HQ rotors in early Holden stud pattern so I'll share with you my multiple hours of internet research and phone calls if you like.

As far as I can find, DBA ( Disc Brakes Australia ) are the only manufacturer of undrilled HQ rotors however you can't buy them direct from DBA, you have to buy from their agents.

Repco,Supcheap,Bursons, Hoppers Stoppers etc.

DBA014U is the part number for their standard undrilled HQ rotors. The "U" differentuates from the normal HQ stud pattern rotor which is DBA014.

DBA don't have any in DBA014U stock at present ( up the 2 weeks ago anyway ).

They do make a more expensive racing type slotted rotor in their series blah,blah,blah but I wasn't really interested in a racing type rotor at a racing type price so never went any further than that.

Good news is that it seems that most of their agents still have stock of standard undrilled HQ rotors.

After many hours of ringing around I found the best place with the best price was Hoppers Stoppers down in Hoppers Stopping in Melbourne.

Ring them and ask for "Duncan". Phone number is 03 9748 6950.

They can supply undrilled HQ rotors for $180 each and machine the rotors to Torana/early holden pattern ready for an extra $60.

This was the best price I could find for new undrilled HQ rotors and $60 each to machine the stud pattern is pretty damn cheap as well considering that part of the process also invloves machineing the O.D of the snout of the outer bearing from 71.5 mm down to 63.5 mm to allow the early holden rims to fit over the bearing snout.

I think you still have to make a slight modification to the upper?? wishbone if your are using standard HK to WB stub axles to stop the HQ caliper from touching this wishbone on full lock, however in my case, I am using CRS lowered stubs that have the mounting point for the HQ caliper in a different position to avoid this.

So for $240 each you have new HQ rotors in early holden pattern ready to bolt to your stubs.Sounds like a lot of $$$ but is the only way I've found to do it at the cheapest price by blokes that specialise in brake upgrades.

The alternative is to fit blank Leyland P76 rotors and also after multiple hours of ringing around it appears that Hoppers are also the best and cheapest at this one as well.

Hoppers now produce an undrilled P76 rotor that doesn't require an adaptor kit to adapt the P76 bearings to the holden stub.

The adaptor kit that was used previously cost around the $180 to $220 mark so you save there by not needing it anymore with their now ready-to-bolt-up P76 rotors.

The advantage of using P76 rotors is that it brings the wheel track in approx 13 mm ( 1/2 inch ) each side and can help stop guard scrub on lowered cars with big wheels.

You would still need ( I think ) some caliper spacers but they shouldn't be much dollars ( just DON'T use washers as spacers ...... it's naughty and DANGEROUS )

You would have to still check as to whether there would be any interference with the caliper or stub against the wishbones on full lock and under all wheel movement so I'm not exactly sure whether this is as easy an adaption as it seems.

Hoppers quoted me $240 each to supply and machine blank P76 discs to early holden stud pattern using ready to fit rotors ( not requireing adaptor kit ).

As another alternative,you could use normal new HQ rotors ( cheaper on initial purchase :- as cheap as $110 pair on evilbay ) and have them redrilled and machined but after buying them, having them sent to you and then having them sent to Hoppers Stoppers and than have them sent back to you, well , it all added up to around the same price and was more stuffing around to do it this way.

My new engineer ( last one now retired ) was OK with redrilled and machined rotors.

There was a set of redrilled used rotors on evilbay a few weeks back on a HK Holden but the seller was selling them as a full V8 brake conversion kit with booster,master cyl,lines,proportioning valve,discs and calipers for $550 start up bid and wouldn't separate them ( yep, I rang him ).

I know Shane ( FJ 225 on the forum :- Bumperau "Brett's" dad ) is using HQ rotors on his FB with a 253 V8 but can't remember whether he is using HQ pattern or early holden pattern ?? though I think from memory he is using early pattern with Volvo rims??

From memory a lot of his brake conversion came from Hoppers as well.

Maybe a PM to Shane or Brett might add a bit of actual experience and advice to you.

Hope this bit of dribble helps.

Cheers.

If you are clever you can knock the old studs out and redrill the stud holes off to one side a bit with no dramas.
Dunno if its legal(probably not) but there is no reason for this mod to fail.
I have a couple here that have been modified that I can post photos of if you cant imagine what I am describing.

wot179 wrote:If you are clever you can knock the old studs out and redrill the stud holes off to one side a bit with no dramas.
Dunno if its legal(probably not) but there is no reason for this mod to fail.
I have a couple here that have been modified that I can post photos of if you cant imagine what I am describing.

Yep,

"Legality" seems to depend on the engineers opinion.

My engineer was also fine with me knocking out old studs and redrilling to the early holden pattern but in my case it worked out pretty much similar prices to drilling new blank discs as there was a bit more machine work involved in redrilling HQ stud pattern discs as there was additional machine work to be done to machine in to the disc support webbing to allow studs to be knocked in.

My engineer was OK with redrilled discs as long as there was enough metal between the new redrilled holes and the old pre-drilled holes.

Other engineers I had spoke to weren't happy about re-drilled discs.

I just chose to follow the new disc path rather than redrilling.

I'll see if I can find the pic of the ones on evilbay and whack 'em up here as you can see in one of the photos where the discs were re-drilled.

Here's a link to the re-drilled HQ ventilated discs evilbay

They are on a HK Holden ATM.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holden-HG-HK ... 35b3d21429



Scroll down and you can see some clear photos of where the new pattern is drilled compared to the HQ PCD.

It's been on evilbay about a month now at $550 start up bid, obviously no interest at that price.

He's now lowered it to $450 start up bid.

Ive heard of atleast once a disk broke due to having a second stud pattern drilled through the webbing ,vaugely something like a disk is brittle and can crack , Could be a scary ride if the broken disk tore off the caliper ,common sense prevails .
Pay the extra ,do the job right and feel comfortable with your decision.

You can squeeze the second hole in next to the webbing if you are careful.

wot179 wrote:You can squeeze the second hole in next to the webbing if you are careful.

Are you able to whack up some photies of the re-drilled discs at all ?? especially a piccie of the inside of the rotor showing where the new holes are in relation to the support webbing.

If it doesn't interfere with the webbing then it shouldn't be a problem as long as it isn't too close to the original stud holes.

Harko wrote:Ive heard of atleast once a disk broke due to having a second stud pattern drilled through the webbing ,vaugely something like a disk is brittle and can crack , Could be a scary ride if the broken disk tore off the caliper ,common sense prevails .
Pay the extra ,do the job right and feel comfortable with your decision.

Which is the main reason I decided to go with new re-drilled rotors.

Didn't want to run the risk albeit, a slight risk perhaps.

they look fine to me i would have no problem using them like that

yeah terry u have a good memory.hq rotors drilled to old holden pattern from hopper stoppers.( volvo rims ) i have some jelly beans to put on. i will have get 195x 65 x 14 so they dont scrub cheers shane

i'm puzzled by all this why not just use H/KTG rotors good enough for big heavy H/KTG 327 and 350 monaros and everything smaller or just use H/QJZX wheels with HQ discs they're pretty much the same rim as H/KTG then if yor worried about rear stud pattern change it to HQ easier and safer to redrill axles than disc rotors

harry186 wrote:i'm puzzled by all this why not just use H/KTG rotors good enough for big heavy H/KTG 327 and 350 monaros and everything smaller

UUUUMMMM - because they dont stop particularly well ???? Why go to all the trouble of converting pox drums to pox discs ??

harry186 wrote:i'm puzzled by all this why not just use H/KTG rotors good enough for big heavy H/KTG 327 and 350 monaros and everything smaller or just use H/QJZX wheels with HQ discs they're pretty much the same rim as H/KTG then if yor worried about rear stud pattern change it to HQ easier and safer to redrill axles than disc rotors

Yep,

I was happy to use HK/T/G rotors as they pulled up the 327 and 350's reasonably well under most normal braking conditions,but it would seem all the engineers I approached weren't happy with them and wanted vented rotors.Since I will probably do some towing eventually the vented discs will cool a bit better than a solid rotor anyway.

My current engineer will allow non vented discs up to a 308 ( same as Torana V8 ) but since I'm currently planning a 327, I have to go HQ rotor.