fbekholden.com

Hi guys,
I'm doing a bit of work to my old girl after a few years under tarps. My Worshop Manual is somewhere in storage boxes

I was wondering if anyone had the time if they could upload the section(s) & pics on changing rear axle bearing.

Any help would be great - I'm trying to get the axle out at the moment but can't get it to budge - am thinking the bearing may have a surclip holding it in place and preventing the axle from being pulled out of the housing - but can't visually see it so getting frustrated

Cheers

Stuart

I was actually thinking of doing that-i do have 2 weeks of spare time up my sleeve. I'll get to it this arvo i think

thanks mate - any help/advice would be appreciated

stucross wrote:- I'm trying to get the axle out at the moment but can't get it to budge - am thinking the bearing may have a surclip holding it in place and preventing the axle from being pulled out of the housing - but can't visually see it so getting frustrated

Cheers

Stuart

If you have undone the 4 bolts on the retainer and it still won't move, get something heavy (I've used a head off a motor), a length of chain and bolt one end to the head (heavy thing) and the other to the axle and swing away, make sure there isn't anything in the way when it lets go , Trev .

nice one Trev! I'll have a go at something like that and see if I have any luck.

Cheers

STEWART , if trevs idea doesnt work try getting a big hammer and dolly and tap the axle ( with force ) inwards.
sometimes this is enough to crack it . then revert back to trevs idea

good luck. black duck

I've always just reversed the brake drum, put the wheel nuts back on for two thirds of the wheel nut and used it like a slide hammer with the impact spread evenly

See how you go
Mick

yeah loving the ideas, now I've got a few methods surely I'll have some luck with one of them. Will be trying tomorrow night hopefully - let you know how i go.

thanks again

newman wrote:I've always just reversed the brake drum, put the wheel nuts back on for two thirds of the wheel nut and used it like a slide hammer with the impact spread evenly

See how you go
Mick

I've used this method successfully.

well, the first axle came out a treat using the old reverse drum method, so i thought the whole job was going to be easy - the secod one however, would not budge at all - and on closer inspection doesn't look pretty - it looks all discoloured and rusty coloured where it sits into the housing so after quite a while trying I am now accepting the fact it needs to be attacked with the oxy (although I haven't got one so poses a problem as the car isn't drivable at the minute)

Maybe give it a spray with some wd or the like and leave it to soak in for a bit.

I had similar 'fun' with mine. One end popped out real easy - the other was more of a pain. The axle did spin so I knew it wasn't rusted in. I used the high tech solution of tieing the axle off on the pool fence then with the rim bolted on a tug of war...I won...eventually.

http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... =26&t=5028

that's hilarious parisian62

unfortuntely I don't have a pool so this won't work for me

I'll be having another crack tomorrow - borrowing a heavy slide hammer from a mate - hopefully more luck with that.

Gday Stu
Just on a safety note, Tie the other side of the diff to something solid, (use chain note rope) for two reasons.
One, being safety, so you dont pull the car off its axle stands,
Two, You will get more bang for your buck if the diff is held securely.
Your force will have more impact where you want it if the whole car doesn't rock around.

Cheers
Jeff

good call Thommo, I understand your logic and agree, cheers