fbekholden.com

Good luck today Neil.

Cheers,

John

Yeah same same Neil , looking forward to a pic this arvo with a set of plates screwed on .......

Unfortunately guys I didn't pass inspection mainly due to the brakes
I was made to take it to the Department Pits at Kelmscott (I don't know why) and they went over it with a fine tooth comb, picked up silly things like they want me to put washers under the heads of the engine mount bolts, the ones that bolt the rubber mount to the chassis, my battery is in a battery box but without lid cause it is too high under the tray, I use a solid core battery but I have to put a clamp on it and they think my handbrake cable is too close to the drive shaft
Anyway the brakes are the main thing after driving it the inspector said he wasn't overly happy with the brakes so he did a brake test on their fancy machine and it failed I must admit they gave it a couple of tries and tried to get it through but no luck. This even though my engineer had passed them and I had an independent test done and passed
So I don't know where to go from here I have a caliper pressure test gauge for testing the fluid pressure from the master cylinder so I will check that, they suggested that the pads and rotors may not have been bedded properly and may be glazed now so I can also check that, I suppose if the pressure is not right then I will have to change the master and also maybe the booster or maybe upgrade to VT 4 piston calipers as I said I just don't know at the moment, very disappointed
Neil

Could you try a softer pad Neil - something that will really grab - forget the fact it might wear faster and go for pure breaking grip - it's one of the first things we do with 4x4's is swap the pads out - it means we need to change pads and discs far quicker than OE but they work a hell of a lot better

Bugger. Sounds like the inspector was like my engineer.

Give Hoppers Stoppers a yell, or Ken Mclean over on the FE/FC forum (he is ex-Hoppers). They are good people, and will be able to steer you the right way.

Cheers,
Harv

Hi Neil, that's a shame but with your skills it's only going to be a minor delay for you. It's a testing time I know, but better to be 100% confident. Softer pads sounds like they would be worth a try. My daily drives rips through pads every 70k kms but absolutely best brakes I've ever had.
On the normal rego checks the test seems to be all about peddle pressure for speed reduction. On their machine did you get any useful info that helps isolate the problem?
Hang in there- the finish is only days away

Thanks guys, any details on the softer pads?????

As I said previously I will check fluid pressure at the calipers first, a google search tells me a boosted brake system should be above 90bar at the caliper if I don't get close I can assume it is the master cylinder I suppose if I do get the pressure I will look at rotor and pads condition.

FireKraka wrote:Thanks guys, any details on the softer pads?????

What are you running in it now - pads and callipers - google or a chat with brake place like Harv mentions should lead in right direction



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hi Wal, standard VP front and back calipers not sure of the pads will check when I pull one and I think you are right about having a chat to Hoppers.
Neil

VP master had a 1" bore - what master is in it now?

Cheers,
Harv

Pretty sure it is 1 & 1/8

Chin up mate. Jeeze what a picky bunch of cuns. Smaller diameter master cylinder might do the job. More travel but less pressure. Yes to softer compound pads as well which is probably the easiest fix.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Go for a smaller bore master cylinder mate that will drop the pedal effort a fair bit.. or bigger piston calipers will do the same thing


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Could try a Bendix Ultimate pad set - about 145$ an axel - these are a performance almost race type - short stopping distance yada yada and commonly available