fbekholden.com

gledge wrote: ↑Mon May 09, 2022 9:47 pm Looking good matewhere did that fuel tank come from? Is it stainless?


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Yes stainless. Martin Dean Qld made the tank. I think I posted his phone number somewhere back in the build.

In the Shed wrote: ↑Mon May 09, 2022 9:48 pm

Brett027 wrote: ↑Sat May 07, 2022 7:02 pm Not me- him

He's a good lookin fella

He is the most amazing dog I've ever had. Smart as a crow, affectionate at all times and obsessed with food. He is also a cleptomaniac. I spent 10 minutes today cursing and worried that dementia had arrived unexpectedly when I couldn't find a lid to a thinners bottle that I had only just taken off. Turns out good old Luca had paid me a visit and taken a fancy to it; found it on the grass outside.

I’ll send it 8 )


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Many thanks Clay.

Brett027 wrote: ↑Mon May 09, 2022 10:36 pmMartin Dean Qld made the tank.

How long ago did Marty make that one? I've had one of his tanks for about 10 years, and really happy with it. I gave his details to one of the FE/FC guys a few months back, though he reported that Marty was no longer making tanks. Not sure if that was just FE/FC tanks, or all tanks.

Cheers,
Harv

Been sitting around for a couple of years now Harv. I remember it took him about 4 months to make it.

Harv wrote: ↑Tue May 10, 2022 7:27 am

Brett027 wrote: ↑Mon May 09, 2022 10:36 pmMartin Dean Qld made the tank.

How long ago did Marty make that one? I've had one of his tanks for about 10 years, and really happy with it. I gave his details to one of the FE/FC guys a few months back, though he reported that Marty was no longer making tanks. Not sure if that was just FE/FC tanks, or all tanks.

Cheers,
Harv

Someone on Facebook was having trouble contacting him as well. Can’t remember which page but not FE FC as I don’t follow those models. Whenever I have seen people asking about custom tanks in the last couple of years his name kept popping up. Plenty of positive comments floating around.

Cheers, Andrew

Yes Andrew, they are very well made. Cant wait to use it!

Picked up a well priced set of tripple CD175 Strombergs and manifold yesterday with 2 spares. Will require relocating the battery to fit them and common sense tells me now is the time to do it....but had my heart set on a WW stromberg for my 186. Do people run battery cable outside under floor or through cabin to move battery to under tray behind cab? If outside under floor, does it require conduit?

Got some vapour blasting done this week. Clay you might recognise something here...

Tidy job on the mani. I prefer to run through the cab. A firewall union thing in the corner of floor hump and lower firewall adjacent starter motor then earth starter gearbox bolt to inner subframe bolt. Then maybe an isolation switch somewhere in the cabin. Use big fat cable to zvoid voktage drop. Adds some weight to the car but you get improved handling the further back you mount the battery. Telling you how to suck eggs no doubt.

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I was always going to run WW as well but sex appeal of the twin jugs got the better of me. Triple cd175s is next level again. Let me know if you want to offload them.

186S setup is the sensible option but with ghe triples you can up the ante viz cxm znd head. Ducking eggs again. My 2c.

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I'm thinking that I will get the motor and ute run in with my WW and then down the track try the tripples for size. I will relocate the battery now while everything is easy to get to and I can touch up the paint in engine bay. Will run the cable/s through the cab- its a pretty short run from the starter to the back of cab. Could use a terminal block but thinking it's probably not needed- although it would make a flat battery less challenging ...

Whats the go on needing a -ve cable or just using body earth? Suggestion on +ve cable size ?

Just a thought bubble but has anyone reversed the batter box / tray to the drivers side ?

I know it would be a fiddle but a cool way to keep everything up the front, combat voltage drop and still look like GMH did it.

Would be cramped for a booster though I realise and perhaps too much sheet metal work.

Hey Brett I run my cable under the floor to the tray no problem.
Positive cable to starter motor through an isolation switch, negative cable from battery to body, I just welded a bolt near the battery in the tray and connected the cable to it.
Over here I had to have a battery box with a lid just used one of the plastic ones from Supercreep.

Thanks Neil. Did you put the cable in conduit?
I'm thinking that I will use a circuit breaker mounted on back cab wall in cabin, but could still run cable inside or under the floor. I guess a marine type battery box would be a good option for safe mounting of battery.

Hi Brett,

I ran my cable through the cab and have a through firewall termination block to the starter. I have it in split conduit outside the cab to the motor.
The negative is also bolted to the chassis via welded bracket. Gearbox to chassis return as well.
I used 70mm welding cable double insulated, no voltage drop at all.

I have my battery in the boot with no box just a tray and solid clamp. The only thing I had to do was use a din vented battery with a tube to the outside of the body and full covers on the terminals.

You can get bolt on fuses rated at 300 amp to put directly on the positive terminal to protect the cable if it ever shorts, but if you run it properly that shouldn't be an issue. Also if the fuse fails the cable is long enough to connect back to the battery directly until a new fuse is installed.

Greg