Finally some painting done. First coat of clear in photo. Shows up some lumps and bumps, but best I can do. 2 more coats of clear to go, one full, one a fine more thinned skim.
And that's a wrap. 2 more coats of clear, last being a flash coat. Should be an easy rub and buff in a month or so.
A cold wet 5 days ahead, so just finished in time. Was hoping to drill holes for tonneau tabs before doing the final coats, but the weather intervined yet again. Guards, bonnet and dash and cabin trim bits can be painted under heat lamps.
Tossing up whether to go painted or chrome rear light surrounds.
If I can get 2 good chrome ones from my stash I'll go that way. If not, painted tail lights.
Pretty happy with paint. Hard to get good photos until the dust has been buffed off, but good coverage and fine texture. Kate was getting excited about driving it to the garden centre to pick up pots
Not much to report today. Tidy up work in tray. Raptor ute liner applied. KBS on cross bar supports and general tidy up under floor tomorrow. Raining yet again as I type
I need some help here. First question: are the ek bolts the same length as HR bolts or are they shorter?
Second issue: It appears that the square steel plate and square mounting rubber are not used - just spring washer and nut- is that right?
Third issue: The firewall (rear facing) ends of both top wishbones angle inwards and on the drivers side are very close to the inner subframe guard/ panel. Is this normal ?
Finally: Are there any tips for fitting the spacer tubes that fit on EK crossmember bolts?
HR crossmember bolts are shorter than EK. It's best to use HR mounting hardware (that is, bolts, spacer tubes, washers and rubbers), except for the outrigger, which will be EK.
If you get stuck, I have some HR bolts etc., and can give you measurements for reference. Here they are -
HR front crossmember bolt: 1/2" UNF x 5-1/4" (shaft length 5", with 1-1/4" of thread)
HR front crossmember spacer tube: 1/2" ID, 0.630" OD (close enough to 5/8"), 2-5/8" long
HR front crossmember bolt upper washer: 17/32" (0.530") ID, 1.712" OD, 1/8" thick.
And now that I've read your whole post - yes, it's normal for there to be very little or even negative clearance between the rear "ears" of the upper control arms and the subframe. A little percussive adjustment to the subframe will be of advantage, as also will removing the shim stacks before installing the front suspension.
And I didn't look at the photos either. Front suspension already installed. My bad.
Thanks Rob. I bought a Rares HR front for ek conversion kit so have the rubbers - but noted there were no square rubbers in the kit so am assuming they are not used. Yes, I had to loosen off the drivers side rear washer stack bolt to get it over the lip on the subframe. Keen to have the bolt length and tube lengths if you can lay your hands on them. A cross sectional diagram of the mounting bolt set up would be very handy too.
There you go. Thanks for the measures Rob. Much appreciated. Going from that there is only one spacer tube and not a long and short and shorter at rear as on ek?