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Also I managed to jag the rear loom and shred the indicators feed which the wire wheel.


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Errol62 wrote: Sat Jan 26, 2019 3:08 pm Also I managed to jag the rear loom and shred the indicators feed which the wire wheel.

Of COURSE you did At least its an easy fix .....

Errol62 wrote:Got in the back with the wire wheel on 18v grinder.

Hi Clay, what’re your thoughts on the cordless grinder for that type of work? I’ve been procrastinating for a while now about getting one but not sure how long they last under a bit of load like that, even with the larger battery.

Have fun with the repairs

Cheers,

John


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The cordless is relatively forgiving with aggressive things like the wire wheel and cutting discs. Easy to get in tight spaces. Light enough for one hand operation. Other than for grinding it’s my first option. I got pretty good service out of a Ryobi before I got my Bosch brushless. Threw away the guard and handle. 1mm cutting discs are the thing I use the most on it.


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Two 5 amp hour batteries keep me going.


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Thanks Clay


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Would have been nice to get something done on the ute over the long weekend. Other things took priority. Buried three chooks after last weeks heat. Two surfs, it’s been three weeks! Bit of work in kind against school fees. Fair bit of sfa recovering from two weeks of twelve hour days in the heat of the last two weeks. No 2 daughters punk band had a gig at Goolwa footy club.

I did start giving the crash box shift rods a bit of a refurbish. The selector lever on the gearbox was chopped out where it keys on to the shaft protruding from the bottom of the gearbox. I replaced it with a good lever from a spare box and reattached the selector rod with correct washers. The control rod was swimming around in the lever hole like a sausage in a sock. I had a hunt on the net but couldn’t find any correct looking insulator rubbers, so made one up using some fuel hose and reattached. All nice and snug now. Ordered this to sort out things at the column end: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2480989939


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Talking to my mate today, this car passed rego inspection at Regency Park recently.No indicators, no papers, rough as. Running a hot grey but otherwise original.

Maybe I’m over thinking rego on the ute.


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Clay,

The humpy's a special case because it never had seatbelts and indicators new. Don't know how it got through with the wide rims, 'cause they look much wider than original + 1".

But if I tried to get it blue-slipped in Sydney, it would instantly fail on the rust in the RHR guard. I'd probably be made to re-install the indicators, because they had been fitted at one point. And I think I'd have been made to install the front apron panel too.

A couple of years back, I took my humpy for its yearly inspection. The garage wanted to bounce me on the oil leaks (in a 70-year-old Holden?) I stayed stumm on an indicator that wasn't working, and only when I got the pink slip did I ask them why they hadn't failed me on the indicators. It's because they were never original fitment, they didn't have to be in functioning condition to pass the inspection. Beats me. I didn't complain.

The car's wearing the South Australian equivalent of NSW H-plates, isn't it?

As long as the ute doesn't leak oil/fuel/brake fluid, has a good exhaust, new tyres, and no holes in the bodywork, you'll be fine.

Rob

It’s an old plate reissued Rob. Got one set aside for ute. SA and NSW processes are very different as we know.

The authorities did say they wanted to see the indicators reinstated. The top plate above the steering column was missing so big hole in the firewall. It had a new exhaust and tyres. No floor or head lining. No door trims. Lumpy idle. My mate saw it at Hahndorf Swap recently, and Muddy Bidge Humpy Nationals.


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To hot for grind cut weld grind etc. side tracked on to the bumperettes. Straightened the passenger side.Straightening and hammering out the dents brought it in to alignment with the undamaged driver bumperette. I was chuffed, until.....Cleaning up the back prior to mig welding I noticed some substantial rust holes. They can be filled but would certainly need rechroming. Let’s hope this one from the van comes up better.


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Clay,

Done good on the bumperettes. They'll be easy enough to repair, but will have to be rechromed. It all depends on the electroplaters and whether they repair as well as rechrome. I notice that the passenger's side tore at an existing seam.

If you want to have a lash at welding them up yourself, I detailed the process at some length over at FE-FC under my thread "Why don't you take the FC on?" (The thread will be about six pages in under the "Project cars" tab.)

Rob

Thanks Rob. Great reading.


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ardiesse wrote: Sun Feb 03, 2019 9:15 pm Clay,

Done good on the bumperettes. They'll be easy enough to repair, but will have to be rechromed. It all depends on the electroplaters and whether they repair as well as rechrome. I notice that the passenger's side tore at an existing seam.

If you want to have a lash at welding them up yourself, I detailed the process at some length over at FE-FC under my thread "Why don't you take the FC on?" (The thread will be about six pages in under the "Project cars" tab.)

Rob

Yeh, good job Clay and good luck with the repairs.

Rob, just read through your thread and some good tips there, thanks.

Cheers,

John

Clay,

More info about bumper repairs which didn't make it onto my FC restoration thread -

Strip the chrome off around the site to be repaired, both outside and inside the bumper. Sandblast the rust off the inside. Use a quenching block on the outside, and weld from the inside. Set the welder to a high current, because the metal's quite thick. Don't attempt to fill the hole on the first pass. Instead, lay a fillet of weld all the way around the "crater". When that's done, fill the hole up with weld. Dress the outside of the repair site down. There'll still be some unevenness visible. Don't worry about it. Because you'll now fill in the outside: Lay a big, continuous fillet of weld over the outside of the repair site and let cool. Now dress the outside down to the desired profile. If you open up cavities or find cracks, don't worry: just weld them up again.

If you need the beat the repaired hole out, first grind the weld from the inside, back to about the original thickness of metal. Then beat the repair out to the profile you want, gently dressing it down on the outside, until it's completely blended in. If your repair cracks when you beat it out, the welder current was not high enough. Turn the welder up flat-out, increase the wire feed speed a bit, and let rip. Build up a nice wide puddle of molten metal.

It's a similar technique for welding up the tear. Put a hefty tack weld on the outer end of the tear first, then rip into it. Inside first, with quenching block on the outside, then some panelbeating, then another fillet on the outside. Make the weld fillet about 8 - 10 mm wide to give yourself lots of excess to grind off.

Rob