fbekholden.com

Do you have an FB cowl vent cover to put on in front of the windscreen Scooter? That way it will look like a proper FB and not draw the ire of the spot weld counters. I’ve got one you are welcome to though the chrome bars are hard to come by. Sure you could fabricate some knowing you. Getting it to you could be an issue although the nats are coming up. Happy to swap for an EK one also.


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Thanks for the offer Clay but I'm committed to keeping the ek one - got a few ideas for it. Think i prefer it over the FB one to be honest.

No worries Scotty


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Got a response back fromm Rare Spares regarding the speed nuts


On 20 Feb 2026, at 9:30 AM, Michael Stephens (Rare Spares Online) <support@rarespares.zendesk.com> wrote:

Hi Scott,

Our parts team have checked the stock here and sending you a replacement will not help. All the stock we have are the same and are what Rare Spares offer.

If these do not work for you, we welcome a return for refund. Please let me know if you'd like to do this and I can advise the next steps.

Kind Regards,

Michael
Customer Service Team Member

Rare Spares

Hmmm..... decided on constructive criticism as a response


Thanks for getting back to me Michael.

Disappointing that the parts team aren’t a little more concern with quality control to be honest. This really should not be sold and is only doing your brand damage. As previous suppliers were able to make the correct items as evidenced by the old stock I have, I really think this rubbish should be taken off the shelves and returned to the manufacturer.

A response from the team thanking me for pointing this out the poor quality, that this is not up to Rares standards, and that a new manufacturer is being sourced would be more appropriate than it’s “what Rare Spares offer"

As I can’t easily source the item elsewhere I have no choice but to keep these.

Regards

Scott

Thats pretty poor on their part .. old Les would be turning in his grave if he could see some of the stuff Rares are selling these days

Hmmmm….. Demonstrates they (and others no doubt) just manufacture & sell stuff and work on the basis only 5% of customers may complain / provide feedback on poor quality.

Whilst I have never had to buy speed nuts I assumed they were readily available??

I don’t think they actually manufacture anything, just source and sell.


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In the Shed wrote: Fri Feb 20, 2026 11:30 am Whilst I have never had to buy speed nuts I assumed they were readily available??

Yeah I have found stock from US sites and Ebay (shipped from U$) but they add up when you pay shipping etc. I was lazy/impatient so ordered through Rares - $20 delivered.

Might just have to try a little harder. Searching "chev moulding clip nuts" or "10-24 moulding clip nuts with sealer" gets a few results. Pack of 25 is roughly $41 deilvered, pack of 100 $81. I only need 13, but would replace the lot if these worked.

As I am not in a rush to fit them think I have convinced myself to return the Rares ones and spend the money elsewhere.

So after a month off I'm back into the car. Over stainless trim polishing so thought I'd tackle a door or two.
Front passenger door has rust in the bottom of the door inner. So made up a replacement and prepped for surgery. Ugh - should have got my inspection camera out . Nothing to see from the inside. Only rusted on the outer surface. Oh well come this far. Gapping of new piece was not great on the right but MIG bridged the gap. Done Down the other end I took to the few spots of rust with the die grinder. Filled with MIG Done

Front drivers door outer skin has a few holes at the bottom. This time I had a look inside and yes it is rotting from the inside out. So cut around the rot and ground the bottom lip off. Grind down the spot welds and peel back Clean up Start patch making. Tip an edge to 90 then used a steel ruler to fold over. Find a dolly that matches the curve and bend metal by hand. Test fit and when happy complete fold of skin bottom using press and scrap sheet metal as a spacer. Tap on to inner frame for a snug test fit.

Took a bit of time plotting and planning how I was going to accurately back the weld with copper. Used a square and a ruler to mark the top of frame and top of the door, then used the ruler to help position the copper which was wedged in and held by a dolly welded to a bit of metal bar. Simple. Ready Tack, cool, grind, dolly, move copper, repeat. And repeat And repeat More hammer dolly, and then a bit of shrinking disk. Done

Are we there yet - no! Discovered a world of bog from a previous repair on the top of the door frame. The inner channel is toast on both sides. If in doubt, cut it out. Prise the bottom of the channel off its spot welds which let go with a little effort. Looking in (it's a bit hard to see as the inner curve of the door frame looks the same as the inner) the internal metal is rust free. Must have rotted from the outside in. Found some steel rod which I matched the radius of the curve of the channel with a bit of sanding. Used this to add a bit of meat around the weld to avoid blow throughs. Tacked rod in on both sides.

Formed up a channel. Channel ready to plug weld into the frame Copper primed and channel welded in - plugs dressed. Building a new edge. Probably should have ground the channel down a bit first but was worried that welding into the edge would blow holes. One side welded and the other dressed with some pin holes filled Forgot I have nothing backing the corners and immediately blow a hole in the frame Grind, fill, grind, sand, done.

beediful scotty

Great work as usual