fbekholden.com

Cut Cut Weld Weld Grind Grind,

All good fun but time consuming as we all know. Keep going Clay its getting closer every week.

Another trick I use a lot when welding is to do 4 or so spots then cool down with compressed air, saves all the water and mess and it really does limit warpage. In fact I haven't had warpage in rust repairs for ages !!

Bit of a challenge the rear there but not that bad.

Regards Greg

PS back to work for me today as well and that sucks, slows everything down !!!!!

Compressed air. Thanks for the tip Greg. I plan to put the tank in position before I weld the replacement section in. In a bid to evacuate fumes I stuck the vacuum nozzle in the filler neck and left it blowing for half an hour with the drain and outlet open. I’ll take out the gauge sender and repeat. It doesn’t seem to have any holes but there is a fist size dent at the back. Hoping I can push it out through the sender hole. I always wanted a bigger tank when I drove the sedan regularly but decided to stay original with this one.


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Clay,

Be very careful, sometimes the fumes can leach from the metal. I personally always fill the tanks with water and weld then.

Another trick (seem to have plenty of these) is to pass carbon monoxide from the exhaust of a running car to cancel the fuel fumes.

Like I said I still prefer the water method to be sure !!!!!

Greg

I'm with Greg there Clay fill the tank with water that way you are sure the fumes are dead mate, I have also connected argon to a tank (it is an inert gas) and welded but that is a bit of a waste of gas.
I filled my ute tank with water when I moved the filler neck.
Neil

Thanks guys. At this stage I don’t see a need to weld the tank. I just wanted to try and get rid of any stray fumes really.


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Citric acid is taking off the crap res pray with aid of the karcher whichive cleaned out the nozzle on a dozen times. on the left rubbed back by hand. On the right the diagonal is the water line where the top front was in the acid. At the back it’s pretty clean still good for Metal Fix. Very handy tip thanks to Gazza again. I love it.

Finally wrestled off the tail shaft with aid of multi grips. Them pesky 7/16 bolt heads were loose in my good spammer. Effing autocorrect. Pushed her out znd went mad with the karcher once again leaving no crevice untouched excepting under dash. It was a good opportunity as mum and the kids are away in town. Forecast about 40C tomorrow so she should dry out well.

Blew on this full strength to try get off the remaining gunk.Gutsy stuff. Had to put on a mask. Donk copped it as well as diff and fuel tank area.

To be followed by more hydro pressure.


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The driveline that came in the car when I got it. Only a lot cleaner. Electronic dizzy. New coil. 1 7/32” stromberg from HJ. Gear reduction starter from the sedan blue 202 which is destined for the van. 186 mani mate Alex gave me. Slave cylinder from my stash. It’s a bit of an unknown but just to get it regoed.


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Pulled the fuel senderAbout 1 ohm empty and 33 ohms full. Fuel tank looks spotless inside.


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Looks like good news with the fuel tank Clay. Yaayyyy! Something that doesn’t need fixing maybe?


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Small dent I tried to get behind with broom handle through sender hole but no dice John. It’ll do.


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Took off the rear cargo floor support which was hanging on the spot welds one side only. The other side was wired up farmer style.I couldn’t believe the amount of crap inside.


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Errol62 wrote:Small dent I tried to get behind with broom handle through sender hole but no dice John. It’ll do.


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Of course it will - it’s called “character”


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Gee Clay,

She is really being dragged kicking and screaming towards the finish line isn’t she!!!

Ric.

Good stuff Clay,
You gotta be happy with the inside condition of the tank. Looks like the Karcher is getting a floggin! One of the best things I purchased many years ago

Hope to bump into ya down at Glenelg for the AHD.

Regards
Stephen

Cheers fellas
See you at AHD Stephen


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