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rosco wrote: Tue Feb 25, 2020 6:59 pm Oops... forgot to mention, I see your can of SW-2 on the floor... bought some myself and have used it on a newly acquired 6 x 4 trailer... stuff seems to work well...... dries pretty much as fish oil does and can be over-painted with enamel primer/topcoat once it goes dry enough ... happy so far.
Bought my can from Bodyshop Auto Paint supplies in Bayswater (Vic)... $52.00

frats,
Rosco

Ha Ha Rosco well spotted !!!!

Tripping over tins everywhere at the moment. I sprayed that stuff in all the roof channels with a rust proofing gun before I started the headlining. It still smells after a week but I noticed it didn't make anything hot like fish oil. I was always concerned about the self combustion component of the fish oil until a panel beater mate put me on to this new stuff.

Regards Greg

Yes Greg,
so far, so good.... pretty impressed with the stuff.
I have since painted a metal primer over it with good results.. then painted some hammered metal finish enamel over that....
It has sealed the inside of the trailer bay floor/wall joints very well.. and I used it in the join of the inner and outer rim of the spare wheel.
I left it for nearly a week in the hot sun and it baked down very nicely. Still just a little bit tacky, but nothing like fishoilene (Wattyl)
.... I have left that stuff for months and it still doesn't fully cure out to a solid base.... I think this stuff will in time.
I will keep an eye on it from time to time and report if I find any of it showing signs of letting go.

One thing I did notice, after about three days in the sun, we had a shower of rain... the surface of this stuff went opaque white when it was wet.... then returned to the "stained" semi-gloss finish after the water had evaporated..... the water did not penetrate the product.

So - it's all thumbs up so far....

I haven't had issue with fishoil causing metal to get hot.... but, I've only ever used Wattyl fishoilene... that was my "go to" when I started stripping out all the body deadener .... never again!... did that stuff do some damage.. I'd rather hand paint 100 coats of enamel onto something (well, if the truth be known, my floor probably has at least a quarter of that) than just one coat of bitumenous body deadener.... hate the stuff with a passion.
I found that the hammered metal epoxy enamel was very hard wearing on the internal floor... pic...


frats,
Rosco

I’m with Rosco on the bituminous body deadener.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

It is incredible what a long block and some guide coat will find !!!!! More work needed !!!

Greg

More high fill?

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youre doing gods work

Thanks GPI

Yes more Hifill Clay, its the first rub so It's expected to show some high and low spots. Looks worse than what it is as you can hardly feel the lows but they stand out due to the colour contrast.

I think a couple more coats will get it all.

Greg

EK283 wrote: Wed Feb 26, 2020 8:00 pm Thanks GPI

Yes more Hifill Clay, its the first rub so It's expected to show some high and low spots. Looks worse than what it is as you can hardly feel the lows but they stand out due to the colour contrast.

I think a couple more coats will get it all.

Greg

block block block block for hours...cut through, prime again..apply dust, block block block again, not rub through this time, but more lows and ripples which you cant feel(belive me when i say if it feels average will look 100 times more average when color is on)... more primer... more 3M dust.. block block again... maybe ok after 12hrs or so.. then thats one panel you be kinda happy with,,
just the rest to do.. 3 more doors, roof hood bootlid, quarters... damn

classic line " but i dont want a show car" grrrrr hahaha if only they knew!!

Its bang on the truth there Mr FCEKHKZD.

So after a few more hours I got the doors pretty good and hopefully the last reprime.

The secret to all of this is the prep work at body stage, the better that is the easier this part is.

Done some other bits and pieces as well while the paint was out.
Hopefully the next rub back is good then I can colour paint them.

Regards Greg

It was a productive day today !!

Bought this bench grinder from the Kmart days for $30 nearly 30 years ago and still going strong !!!

Did some stainless polishing. Top one polished, bottom one not.

Does anyone know if we can still get the little square clips that go into the rear pillar that holds the stainless roof moulding on when pushed in ????


Regards Greg

Great work mate

I thought my wagon quarters were strait until I blocked them

That Dura Block is great to use

It will be worth it in the long run



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Bought this bench grinder from the Kmart days for $30 nearly 30 years ago and still going strong !!!
You will regret saying that I had a cheep parm sander said to the wife god I have had this a long time that very day it karked it I don't say that any more I have a Ryoby 240 volt angle grinder that did a lot of the work on my car needs new brushes but I am not getting ride of it yet (now that I have said that god knows )

Nice work Greg. When I put gutter moulds on my standard sedan I got the clips from the donor car. You’re making me dread what I’m going to find. May need to use some of this.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Clay now your scaring me!!!

I have never had any success with spot putty, it doesn't stick very well to 2 part primers unless you scuff it.

In my opinion its better to fill all the little pin holes with the primer itself by dabbing with a brush or body filler and a razor blade in the early stages of repair.

I've had spot putty shrink and crack so I just don't use it. Its also a bugger to sand as it can be harder or softer than the primer and difficult to get straight.

Regards Greg

I'm using it over 1k primer hifill Greg. When I told paint man about brushing the hifill in to the pinholes he suggested this as the hifill is prone to shrink into the pinholes so he says.

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