fbekholden.com

Coming up a treat mate


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I know what you mean Greg I had only intended to fix some rust, put the Ute together and drive it now I try to do everything to the utmost best I can
I think we are all the same just look at clay "I'm just going to give it a clean up and drive it"
Neil

The paint job looks real nice Greg.
I guess it’s one of those things we do where only you know there’s a “blemish” and no one else notices - but it still bugs the crap out of you.
Thanks for the paint tips along the way too, it’s something I want to have a crack at eventually.

Cheers, John


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Bit more done in the last few days,

Painted some small bits and trialed fit the guard one more time before paint. Did the lip modification as well although I still have plenty of height. Got the gasser look going although there is still lots to go back on. The back might need raising as I can't go much lower without rubbing something, we will see.
Starting to finally get some results, Car drives and is finished mechanically, been tempted to give it a power run but no I will resist Ha Ha Ha !!!!
It's also a great idea to fit an exciter/idiot light for your alternator otherwise it won't work !!!! Got a temporary light wired up and bingo I have charging Volts. I've ordered an electronic box and LED and will hide that somewhere so no holes go in the dash.

Greg

It looks perfect Greg.

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Chipping away !!!!!!

I rebuilt my handbrake lever and added a low fluid brake light, and a new cheeky handle !! I also had to make a new retaining clip after the original took to space and into the black hole !!!! Cut and reshaped a small spring and it fits like it should have been there from the start. Because I don't want a center console I had to make a shroud to accommodate the lokar boot and indicator which is flat. The shroud will go under the carpet and hide the electronics for the indicator and also the alternator led warning light box.

Regards Greg

MMMMMMMMMMMMMMM - bling

thats hot

Great work, Greg.. love the handbrake handle.. did you make that, or find it in a different model?

I ran mine without any front on it for about 30 minutes... just the subframe sticking out front with a radiator in it... wow! was the steering light! and the front ride height made it feel like it was trying to shoot the moon... pix somewhere, will post them up as I get to that era in my thread..

frats,
Rosco

Nice work Greg. My dodgy fix for the retaining spring is to twitch a bit of mig wire in the slot.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Arrggh... that rotten handbrake cable retaining clip. An e-clip is too large, and twisted fuse wire very fiddly to fit in-situ at the side of the road.

Cheers,
Harv

rosco wrote: Wed Jan 29, 2020 9:40 pm Great work, Greg.. love the handbrake handle.. did you make that, or find it in a different model?

I ran mine without any front on it for about 30 minutes... just the subframe sticking out front with a radiator in it... wow! was the steering light! and the front ride height made it feel like it was trying to shoot the moon... pix somewhere, will post them up as I get to that era in my thread..

frats,
Rosco

Thanks Guys,

Rosco its a early Customline, my father loved his Frauds, he has since past but the family still retains some of his cars.

Regards Greg

Can you tell me a bit more about this please as I want to put LEDs in my dash
Thanks Billy
It's also a great idea to fit an exciter/idiot light for your alternator otherwise it won't work !!!! Got a temporary light wired up and bingo I have charging Volts. I've ordered an electronic box and LED and will hide that somewhere so no holes go in the dash.

Nice work Greg, the tunnel shroud looks cool

Cheers, John


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BILLY BLACKARROW wrote: Thu Jan 30, 2020 8:35 am Can you tell me a bit more about this please as I want to put LEDs in my dash
Thanks Billy
It's also a great idea to fit an exciter/idiot light for your alternator otherwise it won't work !!!! Got a temporary light wired up and bingo I have charging Volts. I've ordered an electronic box and LED and will hide that somewhere so no holes go in the dash.

I think I understand how an exciter works, though it may be more of that electricians sorcery .

The alternator has an exciter circuit, used to power up the alternator ready to make power. It takes +12V from the battery, runs via the ignition switch, through the GEN idiot light on the dash, then on to the "L" terminal in the alternator. This connection is often called an "exciter wire", and is shown in green in the diagram below.
Step 1: When the car is stationary, the alternator is not spinning, and there is 0 volts at the L terminal. There is also 0 volts at the ignition switch. The idiot light has 0V from the alternator on one side, and 0V from the ignition switch on the other. No voltage differential means that the idiot light turns off.

Step 2: Turn the ignition switch on, and 12V flows through the exciter wire (from the battery, to the ignition switch, through the idiot light to the L terminal). The alternator gets excited by this voltage, ready to start making power.The idiot light has 0V from the alternator on one side, and +12V from the ignition switch on the other. Voltage differential means that the idiot light turns on.

Step 3: Crank the car and fire it, and the alternator makes power. The L terminal now has +12V from the alternator. The idiot light has +12V from the alternator on one side, and +12V from the ignition switch on the other. No voltage differential means that the idiot light turns off.

Care needs to be taken with an LED. They can flow current either way (alternator to battery, or battery to alternator). The problem with an LED is that they are directional - diodes only let power flow one way. The diode has to be oriented to allow power to flow from the battery to the alternator (i.e. act as an exciter wire or an idiot light) - the opposite direction to the purple arrow in the diagram above.

This all works pretty good with a normal incandescent bulb in the idiot light. The bulb draws enough current to do the exciting. You can swap an LED into the idiot light location. LEDs draw a lot less power than an incandescent bulb... and sometimes that low power draw is not enough to excite the alternator in Step 2.

I suspect that this is not always the case though. I have a pretty common Bosch 120A alternator in the wagon, and an LED bulb in the idiot light. No problems with battery charging.

Cheers,
Harv