fbekholden.com

Otherwise thrust bearing will spin. The holes are there from factory. May be not the dfpring. Good idea none the less. One of my cars had it but may have been from fork end to hook on slave. Only some slaves have it.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Giving me the shits this clutch set up - new cylinder on and trying to bleed it the pedal wouldn’t return and I could never get a steady stream without air even after adding a solid return spring to fork end to assist - finally relented to pull the master which had started leaking out the back - had some crap in around the seals so thinking that might of been it but while its apart should put new seals in - rares dont sell them separately - anyone know who does - it looks like its been sleaved already but bore is a bit scratched up - thinking i might be better getting it done again - what are the aftermarket ones like?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Don't you love brake fluid all over the shop?

Don't sell separate from what? Repco didn't stock one but car parts plus had PBR kit. Cup , seal ring and washer, but no firewall grommet.

If it was sleeved it should be fine unless some hard grit got in there. I would just hone with finger and strip of 600 emery.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

When I rebuilt my ute the clutch slave cylinder died the day I licenced it for the second time (don't ask - but it was around the time they stopped issuing stickers ) I bought one of those Protek ones and its been in there untouched ever since.

Blacky wrote:When I rebuilt my ute the clutch slave cylinder died the day I licenced it for the second time (don't ask - but it was around the time they stopped issuing stickers ) I bought one of those Protek ones and its been in there untouched ever since.

The slave is working ok but the master is causing grief - have to find a rubber kit and clean it out and try again - I think the reason it was not bleeding was the fluid was pushing back past the rubbers and the main rubber had some course crap on it so wasn’t allowing spring to return it - I bloody hate brake fluid - takes paint off everything it touches so will have to give it a good wash off and touch up once its working again


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Gave rares a call and they do sell a master service kit - will give it a clean up and new rubbers and see how we go - replacing hose at slave as well as it looked dry and a starting to crack on outer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

So cleaned this up and about to put back together but like all IKEA kits there is a few bits in the kit not in the original drawings
There is a thin metal washer that was in the cylinder when i pulled it apart - was between the piston and spring cup rubber
And the metal valve and oval shaped rubber I have no clue where they go
Are they an upgrade perhaps? Anyone got a drawing to show where they go?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You got a universal kit for brake or clutch. You only need the bits per the manual although the steel washer can go in there somewhere. I think between the piston and primary cup. What you annoyingly don’t get in some kits I’d the firewall grommet that fits between master and firewall and seals around the clerks shaft, buy then I guess it’s only function is to stop fluid leaking into the cab when the cups fail.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Errol62 wrote:You got a universal kit for brake or clutch. You only need the bits per the manual although the steel washer can go in there somewhere. I think between the piston and primary cup. What you annoyingly don’t get in some kits I’d the firewall grommet that fits between master and firewall and seals around the clerks shaft, buy then I guess it’s only function is to stop fluid leaking into the cab when the cups fail.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Ok - the rares kit has the rear seal for the push rod so thats a plus


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The metal valve is a check valve - that's for the brake master cylinder only. You won't need the grommet (above the check valve in your photo) either.

Rob

ardiesse wrote:The metal valve is a check valve - that's for the brake master cylinder only. You won't need the grommet (above the check valve in your photo) either.

Rob

So should I use the check valve? If yes wher does it go?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

No it is for drum brakes not clutch. See above x2.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Errol62 wrote:No it is for drum brakes not clutch. See above x2.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Ah. - sorry missed that


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

All back together - just have to bleed it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

they do say good things come to those that wait a veeeeerrrryyy long time - should look good next to the boost gauge


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro