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Found this in the spares box that came with the FB anyone know where this blue and black wires with a golbe would have come from ?


Picked up some wheel cylinder rods for the back diff so shes good to go
Separated the leafs again buffed them all up on the wire wheel and painted them up, i reinstalled the leafs as standard then two in blocks and rolled the diff in .

Now the cables in i can work on the hand brake set up, i flipped it opposite to the orignial and seems to work so ill build a bracket this week.
The jack handle under the car looks like a pea shooter exhaust.

The misses cleaned up the rear bumper and tail lights so we installed them and new lenses with seals , the bullet tail lights needed the holes drilled abit and the indicators i had to buzz the edges down abit to fit. all good now.
need to make some number plate light plastic brackets the oem ones crumpled in the hand. im thinking about cutting some flat acrilic the same size as the old oem oval size then getting some led lights in them, will see how i go.
Need a fuel filler rubber and polish and install the boot lock.

Todays new lesson...
Ive been pulling my hair out a bit when ever ive had a crack at lining up the newly installed ek auto column to the pitman arm and getting the wheels to turn fulll lock to the left .also putting it on the ill do it later list
i could turn right almost enough to start drifting and turning to the left about 1/2 of that to the right.
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The pitman arm can only go on the column shaft in 1/4 turns as the shaft has double spline cut outs at 12 3 6 and 9 oclock as such.
i counted the steering wheel turns and got two complete circles, so turning the wheel back once i placed the steering wheel center. still it wouldn't turn the drums full lock to the left. i re pulled the pitman arm off and tried to place it on the next available slot but no luck it wouldn't reach going left or right.
I also replaced the tie rod ends as well and put them to the exact measurement as the ones i pulled out so technically they shouldn't make a difference. i then dropped the ti rod ends back off to eliminate all things that could be stopping the steering.

:idea:BING , I had a idea so i put the steering wheel on the manual column ,put it in the vice marked up the spline and wheel and see how many turns she does... i counted 3.75 turns. bingo i thought.
i pulled the manual box cover of to see how they work as ive never touched one before etc i tried moving the shaft gear up a gear on the column gear to see if that would give me more turn one way and not the other ,it just limited one way.
Pulled the cover off the auto one and thought maybe some one else had the cover off at some stage and just put it back on in the wrong tooth or to look for a broken tooth which my have jammed some where.
second idea stick the manual shaft in the auto box and boooom 3.75 turns on the wheel in the car. Then tried the auto shaft in the manual box and now the manual column on does 2 steering wheel turns.
super weird as the is no broken teeth or any thing all though the teeth look a bit worn maybe that's causing it to bind up.



These are the teeth that were limiting the turning circle they dont look to much different from the other ones


Does any one know if the top (dirty) nut can be undone so when the wheel alignment it done they don't have to press out the tie rods ends again? the center tube up the top right of it has a large pin punch on it?

Jeez. Fun and games mate. Never had any of those issues. 3.75 turns, back to centre, line up the front wheels, bolt up pitman arm, go for a drive and adjust the steering wheel centring. Shouldn't need to press out the tie rod ends to adjust toe.


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Errol62 wrote:Jeez. Fun and games mate. Never had any of those issues. 3.75 turns, back to centre, line up the front wheels, bolt up pitman arm, go for a drive and adjust the steering wheel centring. Shouldn't need to press out the tie rod ends to adjust toe.


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All fun and games mate once you crack the problem, the top nut on the control arm would not budge even though its on thread.so i could only see adjustment by threading the tirod in and out.?

Hi Clint I thought the nut was supposed to turn the centre tube as you call it the 2 threads should be like left hand right hand or something like that so that when you turn the top nut the tie rod will move either in or out.

Could be wrong mate been wrong many times before

Regards
Neil H

Think Neil's right. The clean one is the lock nut?


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Yea im not sure why the top one wont budge i had some serious pressure trying to move it even had the blow torch on it for some heat and nothing.
I dont want to snap the other end off either

Hey Clint this may be a silly question but you are not trying to turn the nut separately to the centre tube are you if so this may be the problem the pin punch you refer to is actually capturing the top nut so they should move together or have they been wound all they way back toward the centre and binding: is there thread still above the top nut mate?

Regards
Neil H

FireKraka wrote:Hey Clint this may be a silly question but you are not trying to turn the nut separately to the centre tube are you if so this may be the problem the pin punch you refer to is actually capturing the top nut so they should move together or have they been wound all they way back toward the centre and binding: is there thread still above the top nut mate?

Regards
Neil H

I think there is about 25mm of thread above the top nut. As for undoing ive just had the spanner on the nut havent touched the tube part.
Ill have a crack at the other side and see if i can budge that one.

I went to install the EK wiper motor and bits so i can then finish and install the glove box, ash tray and dash etc, i removed the fb arms and bits , the fb car never came with a wiper motor must have been removed prior to purchase.
Problem is i think when i bought the ek wiper motor and arms i got two left arms judging they look the same
Can anyone confirm this so i can start looking for a right hand side arm to suit the ek setup
Can you get new rubbers for the wiper shaft that pokes through inside to outside.
Is there ment to be a rubber between the wiper motor and firewall
The top arm is the fb one i removed tonight
The two bottom ones are what came with the ek motor


Is this pin ment to bent


Thanks fellas i appreciate the input

Bugger - didn't we pull them out of the blue car ? I would have thought we got all the right bits ..... Although Mick and I had a few before you got there

Blacky wrote:Bugger - didn't we pull them out of the blue car ? I would have thought we got all the right bits ..... Although Mick and I had a few before you got there

Ah the old alcohol memory haha
That set i got off you blacky was out of the ek so no issues from you mate, so you can carry on drinking your set was for my mate's fb special ,i owed him a set as i had previously taken his set thinking my fb would be done before his but im now not to far in front

Pm sent mate.

As I recall when I fitted an EK wiper motor to my wife's FC years ago, I just bolted the EK motor up to the FC arms. Worked pretty well.

No rubber pad between EK motor and firewall. The two mounting points on the EK motor should each have rubber insulators.

Errol62 wrote:As I recall when I fitted an EK wiper motor to my wife's FC years ago, I just bolted the EK motor up to the FC arms. Worked pretty well.

No rubber pad between EK motor and firewall. The two mounting points on the EK motor should each have rubber insulators.

Nice to know Errol ,ive been told by two people i need ek arms to match ek motor so i presumed that was how it is.
im going to get the new rubber seals and have a mess around with the fb and lh ek arms.

I have a rubber seal (almost rectangle shape) between the motor and the fire wall.

Rick.