fbekholden.com

I'm with Harv and I'm not a fan of doing a cam gear change without removing the camshaft. For the sake of a bit of extra work pulling the distributor, side plate, pushrods and lifters I'd still remove the cam. You've already got the radiator, damper, and timing cover off, not much to go after that apart from the grill I guess.
At least then you can be assured that the appropriate end float is set on the cam when pressing on the gear as you can get a feeler gauge between the thrust plate and cam gear.
Getting a fibre gear off without pulling the cam is another proposition itself, especially and old brittle one.
I hope you have a win with it.

I will be replacing the fibre gear (approval given from the finance section - wifey) thus remove the camshaft, I'm in a good position to do so as I don't have the grill, support bar or radiator installed, I have good access to side plate as the are no lines connected to the fuel pump and dizzy which are good to go but only temp fitted.

So with all this info in hand I am acknowledging all input.....it's all gold

Cheers Lex

.......Will tackle this after the family and I get back from holidays up around Townsville / Cairns area. Spotted a flat black EK and a 59 Chev ( like the tail end of these tanks)

Cheers n Beers.......Merry Xmas too

OK....Update..... my front engine needs to lower ( incorrect crossmember assy for the engine ) so the fan will not slice my radiator hose. I opted to swap the engine cover plate. This of course requires timing gear removal and associated components, so

My timing gear has arrived after being delayed etc...we all know the story....take your money then tell it will be late

Anyway, motivation is high to get back into it again!

Today:
Harmonic balancer removed,
Timing cover off,
DIY gasket made from old one as a template
Cleaned the replacement front engine cover
Drilled to holes to accommodate existing and new front engine mount....

Continued tomorrow (bloody rain better let up)

Well the engine sits lower and looks as it should with the front engine plate being replaced, it came of a 138 engine so holes needed to be drilled for the 132 engine mount. Pretty happy with the whole job, need to set mechanical timing. From what of I gleaned its rocking #6 cylinder, this ensures that #1 is ready for firing, the flywheel ball is aligned with the pointer and the rotor button is pointing to the mark on the edge of the distributor, representing the #1 firing position.

No real dramas expect a rocker assembly bolt sheared whilst torquing. ( drill and ezi - out should sort that )


Rockers removed
Distributor and Fuel Pump removed
Side Plate and Breather Pipe removed
Pushrods and Lifters removed
Camshaft removed

Cheers

Av a Great Ozzie Day Weekend

Rigged up my fuel lines for the twin strommies and the vac advance. I reckon I'll be kicking her over this weekend coming. I think figured out my wiring connections for a standalone setup (harness not installed yet)

Waiting on radiator hoses ,carby linkage is also on the way....dont realy need this to start it (easier with one hand than two hands giving it juice!)

Cheers

G Day,

Update...it's been a bit slow lately working on the old girl:

Engine starts everytime (basic wiring) no harness installed yet, will need minor timing and carby sync adjustments

Master Clutch cylinder (overhaul) and slave(new) installed and working.

Brake master (overhaul) installed....need to form my lengths of tubing (new) and fit to brake system.... brake cylinders (new)...then fit brake booster

Selector lever, control and shift rods connected...minor adjustements needed ( a small problem with shifter lever on gearbox going into 3rd ) helpful replies are welcome !

http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... 26&t=21266

Driveshaft next....if I dont need to remove the crashy!

Then I guess I'll put a multimeter to the elec harness and test the loom and fit it and connect to all elec components.

Still plenty to do...getting there

Cheers

Hurry up - you have 3 weeks until the nationals mate

:lol

I'll get the whole family to do the flinstone thing to get there

Selector lever, control and shift rods connected...minor adjustements needed ( a small problem with shifter lever on gearbox going into 3rd ) helpful replies are welcome !

http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... 26&t=21266


OK...I stripped the box and I reckon I found the culprit....A brocken rear synchro cone spring It had caused the gear meshing to sieze / jam this action.

Now to rebuild the crashy!

Hi all FBEKers,

Been a while since I posted due to work commitments interstate and cant see regular access to my red and bus any time soon.
It starting to feel like the old ad quote "It wont happen overnight but it will happen"

I was home about 2 months ago and accomplished the following:

Car is off the floor on stands.....
Completed brake line installation.
Bled brakes.
Adjusted drums.
Installed handbrake (rear drivers side cable doesn't want to actuate/move? may have seized in the flexible sheaf?)
Tailshaft installed.
Started car, shift gears up and down gearbox seems ok, clutch seems ok (new hr heavy duty disc), brakes working though feel a little spongey.
Some minor adjustments on gear shifters.

What needs to be done.....
Wiring installation.
Door winders and locks.
Sound deadning.
Roof lining.
Door trims.
Seat Re Upholstered.
Rear parcel cover
Chrome front /rear bumpers
Get rims tyres, rims are buckled

So more time and more money.....

getting closer mate

Sounds like your getting stuck into it when you're home, well done.

Sent from my D5303 using Tapatalk

AAARRGH 6mths since done anything!!!

Bloody seperation / divorce crap....Need to work on the old girl to keep my sanity! but shes at the Ex's...........Anyway

Thats why Ive been quiet on the forum....even thought about selling her...Nup, too much put into her by myself and I love the the old girl...

OLD BUSES RULE !