fbekholden.com

We tried to get it to run , if we did we were gonna make a tarp out of plywood with it sticking out and get some “SLO bak “ stickers made up but it had 5 stuck valves and the Penetrene and hammer trick wouldn’t work

Looks like it’s octopus for tea


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migrating west

gpi wrote:migrating west

This one came from the north - or at least mid east



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Replaced Brake cylinders - They look like rare spares cylinders - not very old but corrosion already an issue and left rear leaking past the pistons - replaced with rares again but stainless sleeved from the mob in SA - tried one of those vaccum brake bleeders from repco - useless - dont waste your money - will wait until I get a helper to sit in and pump while its in the hoist - need the master working or fluid doesnt pull down properly


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Speculate you got some old brake fluid in the system to get that corrosion so soon after rebuild Rob. I hate messing with brake hydraulics yuk touch wood. Not sure what you mean about the master cylinder working. You mean it needs to be pumped perhaps. Disappointing the vacuum bleeder didn’t work seeing was my suggestion oops!


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Errol62 wrote:Speculate you got some old brake fluid in the system to get that corrosion so soon after rebuild Rob. I hate messing with brake hydraulics yuk touch wood. Not sure what you mean about the master cylinder working. You mean it needs to be pumped perhaps. Disappointing the vacuum bleeder didn’t work seeing was my suggestion oops!


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Completely new system - lines - hoses - canisters so all brand new dot 3 - I’m going to flush it through regardless with dot 4 as it handles heat a bit better - has not done many miles since rebuild is most likely why corrosion set in - the issue with the bleeder is it pulls fluid so will find air from any source so I think it sucks it past bleeder thread even with a gasket goo on thread - it’s not a positive system


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Thought about using dot 5 in my car. Definitely will solve the corrosion issue as long as you are thorough in removing all trace of dot4, including replacing all rubber components. I’m sure you know this. Some don’t like dot 5. Not sure why but I believe you will need to be very thorough in getting any air out of the system for it to work well.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Dot 4 works well


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Oh sorry thought you said dot5 the silicone based fluid.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

I’m surprised you used dot3 originally but isn’t the only advantage of dot4 a higher boiling point? Maybe has some better corrosion inhibitors, but they are both ethelene glycol based and therefore hygro-scopic.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

I didnt get to do the brakes when it went back together or I would have gone synthetic


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Errol62 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 19, 2020 12:47 pm I’m surprised you used dot3 originally but isn’t the only advantage of dot4 a higher boiling point? Maybe has some better corrosion inhibitors, but they are both ethelene glycol based and therefore hygro-scopic.

Dot 3, 4 and 5.1 are glycol, each with better boiling point. Viscosities vary a little too. Can mix them. Dot 5 is the evil silicone cousin. Can’t mix, and can’t use with ABS.

Rob taught me a simple lesson - steel wheel cylinders do not like sitting idle, no matter how good the fluid is. Stainless cylinders are much more tolerant, even with glycol fluid.

Cheers,
Harv

Harv wrote: ↑Sat Sep 19, 2020 3:54 pm

Errol62 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 19, 2020 12:47 pm I’m surprised you used dot3 originally but isn’t the only advantage of dot4 a higher boiling point? Maybe has some better corrosion inhibitors, but they are both ethelene glycol based and therefore hygro-scopic.

Dot 3, 4 and 5.1 are glycol, each with better boiling point. Viscosities vary a little too. Can mix them. Dot 5 is the evil silicone cousin. Can’t mix, and can’t use with ABS.

Rob taught me a simple lesson - steel wheel cylinders do not like sitting idle, no matter how good the fluid is. Stainless cylinders are much more tolerant, even with glycol fluid.

Cheers,
Harv

^^ this. get your wheel cylinders stainless sleeved! otherwise they rust sitting on the shelves...

gpi wrote:

Harv wrote: ↑Sat Sep 19, 2020 3:54 pm

Errol62 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 19, 2020 12:47 pm I’m surprised you used dot3 originally but isn’t the only advantage of dot4 a higher boiling point? Maybe has some better corrosion inhibitors, but they are both ethelene glycol based and therefore hygro-scopic.

Dot 3, 4 and 5.1 are glycol, each with better boiling point. Viscosities vary a little too. Can mix them. Dot 5 is the evil silicone cousin. Can’t mix, and can’t use with ABS.

Rob taught me a simple lesson - steel wheel cylinders do not like sitting idle, no matter how good the fluid is. Stainless cylinders are much more tolerant, even with glycol fluid.

Cheers,
Harv

^^ this. get your wheel cylinders stainless sleeved! otherwise they rust sitting on the shelves...

Yep - that was the purpose of the excercise - swap out rusting unsleeved cylinders with bright shiny new sleeved ones - a good bleed when I get an extra foot on the pedal and all good.
I did notice though the rears are backed right back to the cylinder and drums are still touching - is this normal or has an incorrect component slipped in - front has a couple turns off fully backed off - I’ll have to run it around and wear the pads down a bit to get it fully freed up - just seams odd - was same before replacing


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