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Re: "(AUST)Mod's Turbo FB"
Posted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 11:29 am
by NoMAD
Dude this is a good chance to repair your boot as well and get rid of all that glass for metal!
Just put in one of those stanless tanks and get it made with a 1/2 inch line!
Cheers
Nathan
Re: "(AUST)Mod's Turbo FB"
Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 10:51 pm
by (AUST)Mod
Hi guys got some more done today.
Have committed to hiding the engine bay wiring as it was too messy to merely "tidy"
No major surprises today, however I had to buy a new waterpump for the 202 as my 186 pulley didn't fit on the 202's pump.
The other incident of interest was the fact that I had to use a rattle gun to get the oil pickup line off of the adaptor which screws into the block! It too 310nm of force to get it undone.... I am not sure how the guy who built the engine got it that tight!!!!
Anyway, here are the pictures... The sump is currently at the local Natrad getting a 5/8" barb brazed in for the turbo oil return. Natrad said that they will upgrade my fuel tank barb if I remove the tank, but if I am going to remove it, i may as well install a bigger tank, so Blacky/Jay, any more info on a commodore tank? How much work do they need to mount? Where is the filler neck?
I am seriously considering taking the easy route at the moment and installing a fuel cell.....
Andrew
Re: "(AUST)Mod's Turbo FB"
Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 10:17 am
by Blacky
I have trouble understanding why anyone wants to go to all of the trouble of fitting a bigger fuel tank - whenever we go for a long drive we stop every couple of hours anyway , and if you are out cruizing of a night or on a day trip theres plenty of servos ????? JMO
Commodore tanks (VN etc ) are a reasonably easy fit , you will need to lose your spare wheel well , fill in the old tank hole then use the mounts and straps out of the donor vehicle . Fill the original filler hole in the tank and cut the neck off your original (or preferably a buggered tank if yours doesnt leak - there are several in stock at blackys old Holden spare parts emporium

) , weld the filler into the VN tank in the appropriate spot and away you go.
Re: "(AUST)Mod's Turbo FB"
Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 6:08 pm
by fb cruzn
lookin good andrew, i dont think you can weld a 'barb' on your fuel tank, to remove the tank the little brass adaptor has to be removed, if you weld on a barb the tank wont slide back in. i guess you could cut a little out of the floor
hope this makes sense to you, hard to explain

Re: "(AUST)Mod's Turbo FB"
Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 8:23 pm
by (AUST)Mod
I understand mate, thanks - I hadn't considered that!
I am now leaning towards retaining the standard tank - I bought the correct 'dash' weld in fitting today.
Here are a small portion of the goodies which I have collected and which will be going into the build:

Re: "(AUST)Mod's Turbo FB"
Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 10:18 pm
by SC00BB
Love the goodies, should make for interesting times.

Re: "(AUST)Mod's Turbo FB"
Posted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 1:14 am
by (AUST)Mod
Trans is in. Thanks to Brodie and NoMAD for the real time over the phone tech support

Re: "(AUST)Mod's Turbo FB"
Posted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 10:55 am
by matches
nice work! i thought your car was super cool before, now it's just going crazy! (in a good way

) just don't get a big stupid blow off valve or the axeman might come get you for being hypnotised by the "zimm curse of wanky noises" lol.
keep it coming,
cheers, luke.
Re: "(AUST)Mod's Turbo FB"
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 12:53 pm
by (AUST)Mod
Thanks Luke!
I have been in Melbourne all week but will be home on Sunday and will get back into working on the engine bay.
Can anyone give me any tips on welding up holes in the firewall?
Re: "(AUST)Mod's Turbo FB"
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 1:32 pm
by Harko
Yep use a copper rod on one side to stop you blowing through ,You might need a mate to hold it or actually get your old man to do it he owes you

If your welding on any curves in the body it is a little thinner because the metal is stretched when punched into form so if you can use the copper behind there aswell to help from blowing through.
Every man needs a tin full of holes for the larger ones

Re: "(AUST)Mod's Turbo FB"
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 4:24 pm
by NoMAD
yep... the old copper trick...
but make sure the person holding it doesnt use there bare hand... that wouldn't be clever
Cheers
Nathan
Re: "(AUST)Mod's Turbo FB"
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 5:15 pm
by (AUST)Mod
Thanks fellas
Re: "(AUST)Mod's Turbo FB"
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 10:28 pm
by (AUST)Mod
How thick does the copper need to be?
Is it true that brass can be used as a substitute for copper?
Re: "(AUST)Mod's Turbo FB"
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:00 pm
by Harko
Aaah I think brass is a conductor isnt it , realy dont know but if your willing to try let me know how it goes heh heh.
Ive just got a rod about 1 inch round a foot long ,Just long enough to cope with heat for a while and round enough to cover the area size you would weld in one hit.
Re: "(AUST)Mod's Turbo FB"
Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 9:39 am
by Harv
Harko,
Ask a dumb-ass question... other than engineering supply yards (barstock for turning I guess), any suggestions on where to lay your hands on a copper rod of about 1" round?
My welding is crap

, and practicing filling holes is something I really should do

.
Cheers,
Harv