fbekholden.com

Errol62 wrote: Tue Aug 21, 2018 8:01 amReverse lights on commercials use the indicators.

I've got a hankering to put reverse lights into Grace's ute, and have a NASCO switch (it's somewhere in the shed.... ). I can easily bodgy up a +12V wire from the fusebox, but don't fancy running the pale green wire up the column to get to the indicator switch. How much of that green wire (if any) was run in the factory by GMH?

For the sedans and wagons, GMH ran the green wire all the way from the drivers kick panel through to the rear of the car, and just left it unconnected, ready for the owner to install accessories. Makes wiring reverse lights pretty simple. Hoping the ute is similar.

Cheers,
Harv

Harv
It is an ek right? Pretty sure there will be a white wire spare exiting the column with the indicators. I believe the feed from switch connects here. This goes to the indicator switch and powers the left and right rear indicators. The switch it self feeds +12v from ignition no? The magic happens in the EK indicator switch.
Cheers
Clay


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Yep, thats how I understand it.

Take +12V from the "Run" side of the fuse panel, and get Harv to run a dodgy new orange wire from the fuse panel through the firewall grommet, down the steering column to the switch. Harv digs out the switch from his shed, and installs it onto the steering column. Harv makes a new dodgy green wire, and feeds it from the switch back inside the car through the firewall grommet to the base of the steering column. Harv finds the magic spare white wire, brushes off the NASCO grime, and connects the green wire to it. Voila! Grace's EK ute has reverse lights.

One trick I learnt putting the reverse switch into the FB sedan is that the nylon trunnions in the shift linkage are crucial. Quite often the trunnions fall out, and the owner is unaware (car still shifts gear). The shift linkage is too sloppy though to accurately turn on/off the switch. You can buy the trunnions new from Rares.

Cheers.
Harv

Good to know about the tr-onions Harv. I need some. Bit of welding to build up the wear surfaces as well.


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Errol62 wrote: Sat Aug 18, 2018 6:31 pm Front came off easy

Jeez Clay, I log off for a couple of weeks... You're supposed to be putting it back together, not taking it apart again!

I know right!? I don’t want any surprises down the track so banishing all rust now Joe.


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Finally back in the shed after a couple of nights away for work that turned in to seven nights. Cleaning up the subframe legs brings a couple more surprises.


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No more surprises on the driver side.


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Errol62 wrote: Fri Aug 31, 2018 2:10 pm

A bit more mig time, champ?

A mate just had someone try to make those legs in these pic's, but turned out not so good, so he's having someone else try to fix the originals. They've got a twist in them and some raised bits for fittings which makes it tricky. You gonna have a crack at making new ones, or fix what you got?

Keep having fun,

John

I’m planning to use some large patch sections. I may be able to use the inner leg from an FB subframe I have. Haven’t had a proper look at the front yet. Think I just need the left dumb iron which I’ll get from rares.


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Looking good Clay really probably not too bad after all I had to make some patch pieces for mine in almost the same spots.

You'll have it bock together in no time.

Neil

Some progress on the firewallPlenty of grinding and flapper disc but she is all sealed up. Won’t be seen once the subframe goes back on.

Handy trick with the panel saw.If the patch is sitting over the panel slightly, I slip the 1/3 hacksaw blade in between. You end up with a half mm gap. Perfect.Spoggy shit is my friend.Used this inside the a pillar bottom after wire brushing and compressed air.


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Nice work with the spoggy shit, Clay. In the first repair you showed, looks like it’s had a previous repair just underneath?


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No that is a factory panel. There are two and three layers in some of the structural dress John. I must remember to drill through and spot the two together.


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Errol62 wrote: Sun Sep 02, 2018 12:01 am No that is a factory panel. There are two and three layers in some of the structural dress John. I must remember to drill through and spot the two together.


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I was thinking the same thing John. Clay, I reckon your finished repair looks better than what came out of the factory! Keep up with the good work and progress pics.

Regards
Stephen