fbekholden.com

So much enginuity you guys. Love it

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Neat work Scott, your ply pressing worked a treat

Regards
Stephen

That is some really impressive metalwork Scott, great job

cheers melly

Got bored with rust - decided I should tackle power windows in the front doors. First problem- is there a way to remove the glass from
the metal channel that the actuator slides along. Hammer would be the quickest way. But I want the glass not the channel


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Soak with CRC or WD-40
Lay flat on a towel or blanket
Tap off gently with small hammer and drift

Awesome Blacky - thanks


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Or kero. Replaced the rubbers on mine and instructions say use kero on rubbers to make them soft and to set.

Well Ive got both I think so time to experiment. Thanks Brett


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I was told to use white spirits to set the rubbers ??? That’s what I used on my ‘57 anyway

Well had no kero so went with wd40. Got 1 off after a couple squirts. Other side is being a bit more stubborn. Rubber is as hard as a rock. Wd40 cleans the janky rubber off the glass too.


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Got the passenger side one off. This looks like it had been replaced. Rubber stuck firm to the glass but noticed it moving in the channel. Crossed my fingers, stood it up and tapped. Success Rail slid off the rubber


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Had some time over the last few weeks, sick of rust, so got stuck into the front doors.
Ordered electric crank switches, flat glass power windows, 1 touch auto stop module, and central locking from AutoLoc. There was a good price on Amazon Prime (last 1 in stock) - ordered at Christmas. Received 1 item (1 touch auto stop module), but nothing else came. 6 weeks pass, cancel order and get refund. A slightly more expensive package is listed - 4 in stock. Order, wait, nothing. Then an email cancelling my order. No explanation, and Amazon help were no help so I moved on paid even more from Summit Racing including $250 shipping and duties. Arrived in 3 days so there's that at least. Had the front speakers sitting in a box so added that to the mix.
Decided to set myself up with both doors and do everything twice, mirroring all the work. For reasons that may make sense, I had to jump around a bit as I had to fit the central locking to make sure it cleared the window, the window switch needed to clear the motor, and the motor had to be clear of the speaker. I also get distracted by shiny things and solving problems that don't exist. After a few of days I had this for each door. Then after a fun day of welding and a bit of grinding I had this. Window rail is partially mounted and the plan was to finish in the morning. Oh how wrong I was.........



Power Window Installation
Came out the next day to fit the bottom mount on the window guide rail. To do this I need to run the window up and down the channel. Connected the battery charger to the motor and window moves half an inch up and stops. What the?!? Then, after 5 days of positioning, trial fitting and fabrication, it finally dawns on me. Everything I have done has been measured and trialed with the window down. Window needs cable running through motor to go up. Duh!. I mounted the motor at the very end of the cable.
What a dope. Look, the instructions are sparse at best, and they do state that the motor can be mounted remotely and include a separate guide with pictures for cutting and mounting. What they don't state is to make sure you leave enough cable to allow the window to fully raise. Guess that is implied

Measure twice cut once? Measure many times, cut and fabricate twice, once for each door.

Not the end of the world, just have to reposition the motor. But a lot of work and fab went into that motor, tucking it up out of the way.
You will see that fabrication in various stages in the images here. Ignore it - I know I am trying to.

So back to the start.....

First mock up. Rail was always going to be cut at the top but I was hoping to fit the motor in the bottom of the door. Instructions state that the blue cable guide can be bent as long as it doesn't kink. This would be close. Had to fit glass and test. With glass in lowest position, motor sits here which is too low. Contemplated using the bottom holes on the actuator, but then I would need custom glass that was longer to allow the window to close without the clamp hitting the top of the door. Remove motor. Motor mount has to be cut off the rail. So you cut an inch up from the bottom, this leaves an inch of cable channel feeding out of the motor to attach the blue hose to. Then cut an inch higher, being careful not to cut the cable channel. I cut around it then wiggled it till the waste snapped off. Here is a before and after. Should have flipped them over.

x

Measure and cut the top off the rail Cleaned and flared the ends with a transfer punch, then modded a tool I made for my press to punch a tag in the end to grip the hose. Gripping the hose seems pretty important. When the window goes up the motor keeps pushing on the cable which would push it against the side of the blue hose. With the rail and motor mounted on rather flexible door steel, if the hose is not well clamped, I think it would pop off.
Another thing not mentioned is adding an end stop at the bottom of the rail.
That gets cut off when you remote mount. Finally got to use the nutsert set I go a year ago. Trial fit. Discover that the top nut to mount the rail is right on a curve in the door. Fabricate a flat bottom cup out of scrap bent around a socket and welded to another piece of scrap. Fitted the rail with a couple washers and a spring washer as spacers. Then discovered that, with the window down on the end stop, the glass was not flush with the top of the door. This would make for uncomfortable elbow out of window driving. A new hole solved this problem. Looks like I didn't need to fab this either! Welded a tag to the top of the window access area to accept the bolt for the bottom nut of the guide. Was conscious of not filling in this space too much and making it impossible to get the glass out. Note the lock nut under the tab. Allows for fine tuning the rail. It needs this.

Interlude. Speaker Mount.
Got a crazy idea that I might try and save the door car vinyl, so speakers will be placed in roughly the same spot. New speakers are bigger and I don't like the idea of them floating on the door card so decided to make a bracket. Bracket needs to be removable to get at power window/switch/glass.
Position will be something close to this. These are component speakers, so I need to mount the tweeter up higher. Not sure how I am going to mount that yet. 3D printer will get a run at it me thinks.
Trace out the existing hole in door card and Overlay speaker template. Get creative with the textas. Lots of curves for added strength and hopefully no buzzing door cards. Bracket should be flush with the door card. Trace and cut some 1.6mm with the jigsaw. Use inner ply piece from the 9"rear pressing as a curve and roll a lip with a hammer. Add a dog leg. Test fit and checked with a straight edge that it was not going to sit proud of the door card. More brackets, with nuts welded to the back, were then welded to the top and bottom of the access hole for the window. All bolted up this is very rigid.

Also got the worlds smallest subwoofer. Doubt it packs much punch but fills a hole.