Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

[Errol62]

Bit of rust here, thanks to the schutz inside the a pillar bottoms, which blocks up the drain holes. Every FB EK I have looked at has the same thing from factory. If only they had used fish oil rather than bitumen the cars would have survived better.

I will have to cut a decent hole to clean out the tar, clean and neutralise the rust, close up and fish oil.

I still hope to be able to repair the firewall rust without entirely removing the subframe.


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[gpi]

have a look at acf-50 instead of fishoil tiger

[Errol62]

That’s some hi tech $hit Patrick.


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[gledge]

That acf-50 stuff sounds pretty impressive and I reckon it would absorb into the metal fix for a pretty serious barrier but I can only seem to find it available in the UK?


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[Errol62]

More crap passenger side. The drain tubes are toasted.


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[FireKraka]

I found that stuff in the bottom of my A pillars too Clay dug it all out at least I think I got it all.

Neil

[Errol62]

Having rust holes in the a pillar bottoms is a blessing in disguise Neil I suppose, in that it gives one a hole to fish all the crap out.

Ho hum, I’m now resigned to pulling the front off. May as well do it properly I suppose. So far I have all the subframe bolts off bar the two inner bottom ones. I must say they came off cleanly and can be re-used without a doubt. Let’s see how the inner ones go. First though I suppose I will have to disconnect brake lines, wiring, speedo and linkages before I pull out the motor and box and suspension. Spring is around the corner and I’m further away from rego than I would like but at least I will know that the subframe and firewall are good.


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[gledge]

Wow I’m amazed that they came out so well mate..if ya need another set of hands when your f##king around mate just sing out


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[Errol62]

Cheers Glen
I’ll keep that in mind.


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[ardiesse]

Clay,

So Cassandra can foretell the future . . .

Thinking out aloud here . . . The engine and gearbox come out as a unit. The front suspension and steering linkages similarly. It just gets a bit fiddly with the handbrake cable, the clutch hydraulics, brake and fuel pipes. I think you can leave the steering column in place, but remember to remove the column-to-subframe bolts.

A couple of things to make your life easier when refitting the subframe -
1. Get a five-foot piece of timber (fence paling is ideal) and attach it across the subframe in front of the tie member. Makes it easy for two people to carry.
2. "Subframe bolt bullets": four pieces of mild steel rod drilled and internally threaded 5/16" UNF to go over the threaded end of the subframe bolts; outside diameter 7/16" for the two outer bolts and 3/8" for the two inner bolts; tapered or rounded leading ends; and about 1" long. You screw the "bullets" onto the subframe bolts, start the bolts into their holes, and then hit the bolts home with a hammer. The "bullets" draw the subframe members into alignment as the bolts are hit home.

Rob

[Errol62]

Thanks Rob
I remember your advice about the bullet nuts from your visit last summer. This will be my third subframe off but I have only ever trial fitted one once, to the van, upside down on the rotisserie. This one is coming off quite a bit easier than the last two.


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[gledge]

Hey clay why don’t you just leave the motor on the front end and the front end on the sub frame and just disconnect the tail shaft linkages brake and fuel lines etc and just roll it forward enough to do your repairs?


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[Errol62]

Yes I was thinking about it Glen. Might get you around to give me a hand when I’ve disconnected brakes, wiring, linkages etc.


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[gledge]

No worries mate


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[Blacky]

Hey clay why don’t you just leave the motor on the front end and the front end on the sub frame and just disconnect the tail shaft linkages brake and fuel lines etc and just roll it forward enough to do your repairs?


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That's what I did when I did the repairs on my wifes V6 EK