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Gee Harv I thought I was having teething issues, good to see you are getting them sorted even though they don't make a lot of sense.
Neil

FireKraka wrote: Thu Oct 15, 2020 9:30 am Gee Harv I thought I was having teething issues, good to see you are getting them sorted even though they don't make a lot of sense.
Neil

This was supposed to be a simple project, 15 years ago. Loved tri-five Chevs, absolutely adored Tim the Tool Man's Nomad, but couldn't afford one.


Buy an EK wagon, basic rust repairs, bolt in a Chev, maybe bigger HR brakes, and go.




Then the NSW engineering rules changed. No-one would touch it for a long while. Couple of job changes, some time overseas. Three kids cars to buy and fettle, and the HR for work. Engineering ended up being harder than it should have been. Some questionable workmanship (some of it mine) has made it tougher. Quite a few times I have come close to walking away... I can now understand why so many cars get sold as unfinished projects, and why so many Normans spend their lives living under benches.

I'm almost there. Looking forward to driving it more (I've maybe done 100km tootling around Western Sydney), and have yet to thrash the hell out of it.


Cheers,
Harv

Youll get it sorted Harv - she’s a ripper


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Harv,

I haven't mucked around with capacitive-discharge ignition systems, so I'm guessing here -

Is the coil negative permanently connected to ground? And then does the "CDI box" take +12 V from the battery, and a timing signal from the low-tension side of the distributor, and feed magic electricity into the coil positive?

In the case that the coil negative is grounded, the fuel pump "black box" will think that the engine never turns over. If winding the sensor lead around an HT lead provides enough coupling to make the Peel box think that the engine's running, then would it not be better to "connect" the sensor wire to the centre HT lead?

I'm trying to think up a better system for triggering the Peel box, but inspiration is lacking . . .

Rob

Harv,

Its almost done keep going mate !

The time frame is a killer, so much other stuff to do as well as getting the motivation to even open the roller door.

Mate it will come together and you will eventually love it.

Greg

i know nothing of what you people are talking

This can’t be good...
Cheers,
Harv

Greystanes Hell Driver. Upsi' down Miss Jane.

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Errol62 wrote: Fri Oct 30, 2020 8:04 am Greystanes Hell Driver. Upsi' down Miss Jane.

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I hope thats not an omen Harv .........

With the fancy ignition now behaving itself, the wagon finally got a tune up on the rolling road. It had been running rich enough to make your eyes water at idle, so the screws were backed off. Mid range was similarly rich, so the air bleeds were reamed a little. Top end was OK. Now a good 12.4 AF right across the range, with a slight rich kick when the secondaries first open. Drives a lot nicer. Final results from the engine and chassis dynos were 400 and 246HP (39% driveline loss).

Took the car out to the Creek last night along with Number 1 Son's VL, and put them down the big black dyno. Only got two runs in, but managed 14.3s@94mph. Car was in bog stock street trim, tyres still at 30psi, torque convertor under 3,000rpm and plenty of driver error. New concrete start line has no rubber layer, and the wagon was spinning pretty bad. There is some left in it, though shamed the VL .

The wagon was driven there with the Woolies bags in the back, and did the shopping on the way home. It's sedate enough that Number 2 daughter drove it in Sydney peak hour on the first day of having her L's. Pretty happy with the outcome.

Cheers,
Harv

Awesome Harv - I’d luv a warmed up wagon


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Sounds like you have hit a really good sweet spot Harv. Best of all it looks fantastic too.

Hi Harv,

The 3 dynos are a great way to see what the real power is !!!!

If the wagon is sedate to drive in traffic and pulls those types of numbers then that is all you could ask for, a fun, fast and sort of economical car to run.

In the old days we always aimed for 1 cubic inch to 1 rear wheel horsepower and that would be a huge trial and effort especially with the chev's although not that impossible to achieve. I have a great little 283 chev that uses all original castings and I get 301 Horsepower at the bags. It has a manual gearbox and a Dana 44 rear, so the losses are a little less than an auto and 9 inch.

I was hoping to get my 327 in the EK on the Dyno before Christmas but I don't think I will have time. Its got a bit of a cam and some late model unleaded heads with a little bit of massaging so we will see. Before I get to old I would love to build a dart blocked 327 that suits todays fuel with good compression, alloy heads and a cam that matches a good single plane manifold and some modern after market injection just for fun you see !!!!

Anyway good stuff mate I hope you enjoy the wagon as much as I have watching it get built.

Greg

Beauty Harv you must be chuffed

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Good stuff mate, now its time for more converter and more gears