fbekholden.com

artyfartymarty wrote: Fri Apr 24, 2020 8:06 pmyes, not a fan of the 350. its too big for the 202 and smothers it a bit.

Has it been sleeved? More info here:
http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... 25&t=15098

Cheers,
Harv

i suspect its just as it comes straight outta da box Harv... the mech that installed it with the motor rebuild years ago is a mech to avoid and steer well clear of. I had to have lots of work on it since the motor was rebuilt, oil leaks front and rear, the valve train was way out of adjustment, dizzy shaft snapped, reused all the old secondary stuff like starter, fuel pump, water pump and gave it all a dulux refresh... it all had be replaced after i paid the guy for everything new...i got ripped off by a dodgy mech .... and motor has recently developed a knock i suspect may be big end bearing gone or a dodgy lifter...yet to be determined, seems to come and go depending on oil and motor temp and changes from a knock to a tap when hot... fingers crossed its just the lifters...at +60thou there's no more honing this block. a few joys of dicking around with old cars

so.... a coupe of weeks after breathing a bit of life into the old girl and a few drives, the to do list is starting to develop...with a priority on safety.
been stuffing around with a heater install but that may need to go on hold as yesterday i discovered the brake fluid dropped from full to 10mm from empty within about 200km of driving. i had changed out the brake fluid and gave it all a good flush and its got good firm pedal feel but i suspect I've got a leak somewhere... no obvious puddles on the garage floor or fluid soaked wheels so i have no idea where its going, but given the car had been sitting idle for 4 years I'm suspecting corroded brake lines and its disappearing while driving. Might put this one up to the top of the list over the aesthetics of rusty doors and heater.

Sitting for a while, then running them again sounds like a pitted slave/master cylinder passing fluid past the cups. Don't ask me how I know.

Sweep the garage floor, park it and pump the brakes up a few times. Pull the wheels and drums, and see of there is any leaks. Should find it. If its not external, it may be the master cylinder pushrod. They leak back along the pushrod, and drip down onto the drivers floor mat/carpet.

Cheers,
Harv

Harv wrote: Mon Apr 27, 2020 5:07 pm Sitting for a while, then running them again sounds like a pitted slave/master cylinder passing fluid past the cups. Don't ask me how I know.

Sweep the garage floor, park it and pump the brakes up a few times. Pull the wheels and drums, and see of there is any leaks. Should find it. If its not external, it may be the master cylinder pushrod. They leak back along the pushrod, and drip down onto the drivers floor mat/carpet.

Cheers,
Harv

Damn Harv, do you have telepathic car whispering gift of something?
feld oil on the brake pushrod in the cab, pulled the master cylinder off the firewall and had a tablespoon of fluid run down the firewall...
and looks like it had been corroding a while..



just trolling the interweb for locally available replacement. looks readily available.

May be able to simply hone and kit it Marty. Otherwise I would look at getting it resleeved if it is an original type. It will cost similar to an eBay one and last infinitely longer.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Hi Marty, if you are going to the trouble of fixing up the brakes, maybe think about replacing fluid with silicon. It's $30 a litre( plenty enough for full change over) and no more worries about water. Will require full clean out of of old system but if you've got rust in master cylinders it's probably in slaves as well. I'm doing it on my beasts.

Sent from my SM-T865 using Tapatalk

artyfartymarty wrote: Mon Apr 27, 2020 5:30 pmDamn Harv, do you have telepathic car whispering gift of something?

Nope, just busted a lot of stuff cause I didn’t know any better. If you are going to keep it, sleeve the master and all wheel cylinders in stainless. No need to change the fluid, and it will not pit out. Can sit for years and not leak (see Rob, I did learn... eventually ).

Don’t change to Dot 5 fluid (silicone) unless you replace all rubbers in the system and flush the lot.

Cheers,
Harv

For me with Wilma, I had cylinders in good nick that just needed a light hone and new cups. I had very rusty lines which have been replaced, so logical step was to go to silicone fluid while it was clean and apart. Stainless sleeves can be problematic if they leak ( between the sleeve and the cylinder at the fluid hole) and will set you back $350 or so for the sleeves and another $100+ for the master. Horses for courses.

Sent from my SM-T865 using Tapatalk

I had that problem Brett with my wheel cylinders. Took about four goes for the brake shop to get it right. Still it was $60 or $80 a corner, and I already had the wheel cylinders, which would have gone in the bin if not used. Next time I will make the trip across town to Power Brakes SA. They are very good.

If you can get away with a hone and cups that’s good which is what I did with my master. Otherwise a resleeve from above mentioned. I don’t have any experience with the silicone fluid or dot 5, are they the same thing? Anyway the $30 price is reasonable. I do know you need to full flush and replace all rubbers. God I hate stuffing around with hydraulics.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Brake fluid used to be castor-oil based. Some had no "DOT" (pre-DOT), some were DOT2.

Glycol based brake fluids are DOT3, 4 and 5.1. The three glycol fluids are compatible with each other, but have a higher boiling point at higher DOT number. Super DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 ESP are similar, but have lower viscosity to allow ABS to act faster.

DOT 5 is silicone based.

Each of the castor oil, glycol and silicone types is incompatible with the others.

Silicone fluid helps to keep moisture out, as it is not hygroscopic (does not absorb water) like the glycol fluids. It will still support under-deposit corrosion from the sludge that falls out in brake systems (rust and scale flakes from line, dirt inadvertently put into the system, rubber swarth from cup wear).

Cheers,
Harv

Thanks Harv


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

brakes sorted! thanks all for your advice
literally around the block and a new issue has raised its head...exhaust manifold is cactus and the car sounds like a tractor under throttle.
i couldnt believe it... totally different car rolls out of the garage than rolls back in


new gasket or pull it out and silicone it?
i had a jeep once where the mechanic used a light grey type silicone, it was quite hard compared to the roof and gutter stuff. worked well for years. never had any issues with exhaust gaskets since on that car.
heard the rtv copper gasket silicone is good
saw a copper lasercut gasket on the e market. looked pretty...are they any good?
whats the difference between the standard and the extractor gasket? only diff im seeing is the stock one looks quite fine with separators in the exhaust ports etc but the extractor version is a single big hole for the paired ports and it is not shaped but rather a long rectangle with holes. do they do anything different?
also, im using a 186 YT head on the 202....is there any difference in the port shape? it looks the same as a 202 head externally,

Don’t think you can get ‘stractor gaskets anymore Marty. You’re probably best to go with a liquid gasket seal as the stock ones don’t seal very well with pipe headers. Even the kitchen and bathroom silicone works well on zorsts. It loves heat. Extractors are prone to crack over the years in my experience, down around the collectors.

Yella Terra heads have work to the ports but shouldn’t cause any issues.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie