Wilma FB project
Re: Wilma FB project
Winter 2020 is fast approaching. Decided to strip off all body shell paint ( paint stripper, then sanding) and get a bit of primer on. Aim was to get some paint on to protect shiny surfaces. Will finish filler off in Spring. Last jobs on rotisserie. New brake and fuel lines installed, rear shocks installed. Move on to cradle now.
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Sent from my SM-T865 using Tapatalk
Sucker for a rusty bomb
Re: Wilma FB project
Final stage for now. A bit of mellow (Fernando) yellow! I must admit I really like this colour now. Also love how easy it is to cover stuff with acrylic. Did this paint in the last heat of autumn. Heat lamps after this. It took 2 years on and off to get here, but happy with it. Doing suspension, mechanical stuff now its cold. Front suspension next.
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Sent from my SM-T865 using Tapatalk
Sucker for a rusty bomb
Re: Wilma FB project
Thanks Wally. Can't wait to finish this one and get started on the EK ute. Less doors- its got to be easier!
Sucker for a rusty bomb
Re: Wilma FB project
Latest job was to dig out rust behind passenger front door hinge supports and repair. Glad I opened it up cause there was some nastiness hiding there. That area of firewall and inner guards will be covered in spray on sound deadener soon.
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Sent from my SM-T865 using Tapatalk
Sucker for a rusty bomb
Re: Wilma FB project
What did you say? “Nothing particularly notable”. Absolutely massive undertaking Brett. You have literally bought her back from the dead mate! Very thorough job and all looks very well executed. Fantastic work. The Fernando yellow looks great in gloss acrylic.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie
Re: Wilma FB project
Hey Clay, you're making me blush!
There's plenty I've seen on this forum more involved than this. There is a scale thing happening though!
Yes, the paint colour will come up nicely when its fully coated and buffed. The original paint on the car ( it had been resprayed at least once) was much greener and I was dreading staying with the factory colour if that was it, but I like this a lot. The Arctic Beige insert will go well too I hope.
Anyway, I feel like I'm pulling my weight in the forum now instead of just taking it in.
There's plenty I've seen on this forum more involved than this. There is a scale thing happening though!
Yes, the paint colour will come up nicely when its fully coated and buffed. The original paint on the car ( it had been resprayed at least once) was much greener and I was dreading staying with the factory colour if that was it, but I like this a lot. The Arctic Beige insert will go well too I hope.
Anyway, I feel like I'm pulling my weight in the forum now instead of just taking it in.
Sucker for a rusty bomb
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Re: Wilma FB project
Truly Stunning, coming from a Boilermaker/Welder, You have a gift. Look forward to seeing it completed, Regards Daz.
EK DAZ
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Re: Wilma FB project
Great work Brett,
Lots of inspiration there for someone contemplating a build. The colour looks nice too.
Stephen
Lots of inspiration there for someone contemplating a build. The colour looks nice too.
Stephen
A day in the shed beats a day at work!
Re: Wilma FB project
Thanks Stephen. Hopefully useful to someone like many have been for me.
Pulled front suspension apart yesterday. Wouldn't have believed it but more rust repairs!
Already replaced all brake parts, rubbers, seals and bearings on the back axle and springs, same approach on the front.
Plan for today is to paint all the bits under lights. Love my heat lights, I get warm too. Inside spring housing coated with POR15, then everything in acrylic. I've learnt the hard way not to let POR dry before recoating. Nothing sticks to it unless its still tacky. Also high acidity etch primer works better than standard etch.
One pleasant surprise- both springs were intact. I was expecting at least one broken one. Nice green painted tops and 2 nylon insulators on drivers side, just like the manual said.
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Pulled front suspension apart yesterday. Wouldn't have believed it but more rust repairs!
Already replaced all brake parts, rubbers, seals and bearings on the back axle and springs, same approach on the front.
Plan for today is to paint all the bits under lights. Love my heat lights, I get warm too. Inside spring housing coated with POR15, then everything in acrylic. I've learnt the hard way not to let POR dry before recoating. Nothing sticks to it unless its still tacky. Also high acidity etch primer works better than standard etch.
One pleasant surprise- both springs were intact. I was expecting at least one broken one. Nice green painted tops and 2 nylon insulators on drivers side, just like the manual said.
Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
Sucker for a rusty bomb
Re: Wilma FB project
Bloody hell it never ends this rust.
Very interested in these heat lights you speak of. You are able to get a good result painting panels in high fill and colour below 18C?
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
Very interested in these heat lights you speak of. You are able to get a good result painting panels in high fill and colour below 18C?
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie
Re: Wilma FB project
Hi Clay, I have 2 sets of lights. One with six 250 bulbs on an adjustable stand and one set of 4 that I just hang from roof or rest on things. I painted the firewall using just the 6 light one last week when it was 13c outside. Before booths became compulsory for panel beaters in late 70s they pretty much only used heat lights. Works for acrylic, no idea about mysterious 2 pack stuff.
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Sent from my SM-T865 using Tapatalk
Sucker for a rusty bomb
Re: Wilma FB project
Brett,
Where's the centre of gravity of a sedan body shell? Clay tells me it's about at the height of the fuel filler.
Rob
Where's the centre of gravity of a sedan body shell? Clay tells me it's about at the height of the fuel filler.
Rob
Re: Wilma FB project
Hi Rob, I don't know. I just hooked up rotisserie where I had mounting points available. Then adjusted heights on mounts so that I could spin it without any obvious stresses and so it cleared everything when I rotated the car. At the end of each day I would spin car back to normal position just in case. Using the rear spring holes meant it swivelled and so had a bit of give. Not so on bonnet hinge bolt mounts.
Not very scientific but worked for me.
Not very scientific but worked for me.
Sucker for a rusty bomb