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Bosh Australia, red motor? the pinion is flogged out. I thought a grey to go with the box?
Ground to a halt


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Clay,

The third image is much more like it.
Bastard. Living in the McLaren Vale and all . . .

Starter motors.
Yes, you've correctly identified a Bosch red motor starter. Pinion flogged out, you say? What's wrong - the override clutch has had it? I think I've got a junk-value Bosch red motor starter, with a shorted turn in the armature. Its pinion may be OK.
Red motors have more and finer-pitch ring gear teeth than greys, so you can't use a grey motor starter.
By the way, I think the Bosch red motor starters take the same brushes as their grey counterparts (BSX43).

Rob

My friend brought the cellar door leftovers so it’s not as indulgent as it looks.

Damn, was set to chuck the grey one in from the van. The pinion on the newer one has the first 4mm of splines stripped and yes the return spring seems to be gone. I guess I’ll pull it down and what should the resistance be across the poles? Clean the armature? Swap the brushes out. I could chuck in the reduction gear starter from my blue motor I suppose. Thanks Rob for saving me the trouble of installing the grey one. I wonder if the pinions can be swapped. Anyway I’m phoning rego in the morning.


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G'day Clay,
Your not wasting any time there. A few years mud, dust & surprises hidden in that ute. I do like the additional orange indicator lights mounted on the side of the guards, very tasteful. Are you going to keep them?

In one of the original find pics does the ute have a light mounted on the roof for spotlight shooting?

Regards
Stephen

Hi Stephen
Noooo.... I won’t be keeping the trailer lights. There is a hole in the roof and head lining where the spottie went.
Cheers
Clay


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John
From the factory the car had no indicators. Who needed such accoutrements in the vic mallee in 1961? Subsequently Hella amber trailer lights were fitted up to the front guard bottoms with the amber rears plumbed in as well. Perhaps mr plod mandated it when the big block 186 was shoehorned in.
Cheers
Clay


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Sprint did have a needle and seat on the shelf, not that I needed it but good to know. Taylor Motors are still at 50 Lonsdale St Hamilton. The plate is unknown on the rego database.


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this is what I mean by flogged out

Brushes are down a bit but not bad. Springs okay. Commutator half full of carbon could be the problem

I’ll try giving it all a good clean and see how it goes. Check for resistance across the windings and armature. Anyone got specs or should be zero?HTB grease on the shaft splines. Oil the bushes.


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Clay,
When I went to rego my ute I had to take it down to Regency Pk for an inspection, but it was just a vehicle ID check. The vehicle was last registered in Vic. All I had was the previous rego label and the plates. They just looked at the engine and frame no, went into the office and returned 5 mins later with a slip of paper. They never checked lights or mechanics. From there I could register the car.

http://www.sa.gov.au/topics/driving-and ... ion-tier-2

Regards
Stephen

That is what I’m hoping Stephen. I don’t have the paper but if the numbers match..... the plate doesn’t come up in the database search online. Whereas my first car, sold in 1982 comes up unregistered. I can remember the plates of most of my old cars.


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Clay,

The photos are most informative.
I see what you mean about the pinion. It must have spent quite a while grinding up against the ring gear teeth. Speaking of which . . . you'd better take a look at them too. There'll be three locations on the ring gear, 120 deg. apart, where you might see some damage.
If you have a Dremel or equivalent, you'll be able to save the pinion by "pointing" the teeth, just like in a crashbox 1st/reverse gear.
Your commutator will need undercutting, which isn't that hard to do at home. Get a 32-tpi hacksaw blade, grind one end off square, and grind the sides down for a couple of inches at one end so the wavy "set" on the teeth is gone, and the blade's thin. Then you work your way around the commutator, cutting down maybe half a mm between segments. After that, a quick polish with wet and dry, and you're in business.

It's very difficult to check starter motors for shorted turns, because the resistance of the windings is thousandths of ohms. Instead, look at the commutator for burnt segments, and inspect where the wires are soldered to the commutator for signs of thrown solder. Much the same with the field coils. The only thing you can do is measure the insulation resistance between the windings and the frame of the motor. It should be an open circuit.

Most starter motor faults can be identified by visual inspection.

Give the big threaded terminals a good clean with a wire brush. And when you've reassembled the starter, replace it, pull the HT lead from the coil, and crank the engine for a good 30 seconds. Then feel the battery and motor terminals on the solenoid with your fingers to see if they're warm. If they are, the connections could do with another clean and tighten.

Rob

Thanks Rob
I wonder if pinion was unable to engage because of the worn off spline ends hitting on the ring gear teeth thereby stopping the switch powering the motor. I will have a go at repointing. Good plan on the commutator with hacksaw blade and emery paper. The rest looks on good order so I’ll reassemble and have another go. The ring gear looks surprisingly good.


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Spoke to rego today. They think the car being unregistered such a long time may be the reason there is no record. My concern is if they don’t have the rego and engine number correlated they can’t identify the car and will require a full inspection. They also want a sales receipt which I didn’t think to get. In any case it won’t be from the previous registrant. I will chase up the vendor. It’s all academic until I know how this motor runs.


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Probably a stupid question, but I take it you don't have an old rego label or old rego plates?....How about the previous owner?

I’ve got the plates and an old receipt from behind the seat with a name on it. That’s all Phil.


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