fbekholden.com

John,

Glad that the car started first time. How does it idle? If the idle's good, read no further. But if the engine idles fast and rough - you may have to replace your manifold gaskets. After looking at the photos of the manifolds, it looks to me like the manifold gaskets have split around the inlet ports and started "walking" out of position.

The diagnostic here is WD-40. Start the engine, and spray WD-40 on the manifold gaskets at the inlet manifold. If the idle slows noticeably, you've got intake leaks.

Rob

Thanks, Rob. Yep, she idles fine but I’ll try what you said just for the hell of it, especially after finding those three loose or missing studs.


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59wagon wrote:Thanks, Rob. Yep, she idles fine but I’ll try what you said just for the hell of it, especially after finding those three loose or missing studs.


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Whoops, hit send before I was finished. What I did find before changing the coil was that even though she idled fine, after a few minutes of running she would stall out when taking the foot off the pedal to slow down. I didn’t run her long enough last night to see if that’s still the case.
Cheers,
John


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Good on you john you will have it registered in no time and coming on runs and don't forget we are running the nationals in June in Mandurah.

Errol62 wrote: Wed Jan 31, 2018 11:45 pm Far from boring John. I’ve played around with the switches a plenty, but never pulled an actual horn apart. I’ve collected a few, and you’ve inspired me to have a play. I suppose gasket paper can still be obtained although I may have some in my kit from my HX panel van days, yes back in the 80s. Why did I ever sell that? Oh that’s right, to make room for Errol, my 62 EK!
Cheers
Clay


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Hey Clay,
Gasket material can be purchased. I use these people as they know their stuff and are very helpful with technical advice for your specific project. They also help with offcuts which I reckon are reasonable priced.

https://www.industrialgaskets.com.au

Regards
Stephen

Cheers Stephen


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Another job out the way. The dome light wasn’t working so replaced the blown globe and cleaned all the contacts. Now it worked via the door switches but not always with the manual switch. The pivoting contact only occasionally clicked across to make contact with the globe holder contact. So I removed and cleaned the rusty spring and “Y” thingy, and gave the switch pivot a good soak with contact cleaner. Beeewdiful.




There seems to be quite a gap between the plastic cover and the edge of the metal frame


Is that pretty normal?

Cheers,

John


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A few more pic’s showing the dome light bulb holder removed and the last one is the back of the driver’s side door switch with terminal removed for cleaning.


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Don’t ya love it. Simplicity. Original lenses have shrunk over the years. They get brittle so take care. Repros are around $20 to $40. A NOS one would prolly fit snug but never seen one.


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Thanks, Clay. Yeh, the lens has a crack at each end but I can live with that - it adds character
I’m lovin’ the simplicity of this old girl, it’s not too hard to sus out how most things work, and if you get stuck, you come on this forum and ask someone.
Cheers,
John

hey there john
was good to catch up with you on the run last night
looking forward to seeing more progress on the b
what is it with rockingham and fb / eks
there everywhere down that part of the woods
paul

Hi Paul, thanks to you and the others for making me feel welcome. I enjoyed the night, a great turnout of cars and got to chat with some nice people.
Cheers,
John

yes mate most of us are nice
wait till you meet blacky

CHOPPED wrote: Sun Feb 04, 2018 10:22 pm yes mate most of us are nice
wait till you meet blacky

You've got a lot of teeth for a smart arse Chopped

Lots of teeth and 2 black eyes comming i believe