WALLY'S EK

[kelleigh54]

Looking good !

[FJWALLY]

Thanks Guys.
Nearly all ready - diff had a few issues we are sorting but should have it back wed/thurs next week to start putting it all back together so I can roll it and then get the engine bay cleaned up ready for the motor and box to go back in.

One question for the wise - putting a set of those eBay pipe extractors on and wondering what exhaust set up people use - it looks around 2 inch from the extractors outlet but do you go 2 inch all through or reduce it back to 1. 3/4 or 1.5?

[Blacky]

2 inch all the way

[FJWALLY]

yeah that makes sense Blacky - thanks

Picked up the dizzy today - full refurb by Performance Ignition services in Nunawading - Pertronix conversion plus a new 3 ohm coil - can't wait for this thing to make some noise again.

[Cocko750]

What was the dizzy and coil upgrade worth ?,if you don't mind me asking .. Sounds like it will be a nice old cruiser

[FJWALLY]

was 630$ - included the dizzy itself having new bushes and general overhaul - new vacuum advance - Pertroniz point kit fitted and new Scorcher 3ohm coil
I was lucky in that the shaft and gear was all in near new condition.

they cleaned and re-painted the dizzy housing and took great care to ensure all the old badges and plates stayed in perfect condition.
They also set the dizzy up for the motor re-build I had done as the changed cam and compression would require slightly different set up.

I left the condenser on to keep it looking stock but it's not connected.

[Craig Allardyce]

Dissy looks great Wally. Just one thing, check that you have enough clearance between the rotor and the cap. The magnet ring in these kits prevents the rotor from fully seating to the extent that it may foul with the cap (button fully depressed due to the rotor sitting too high). On both of my cars I have had to dress down the bottom of the rotor arm till it seats as per normal on the shaft.

[FJWALLY]

Thanks Craig - I'll be sure to check that before we spin it up

[FJWALLY]

Diff/gearbox/tailshaft and steering column all sorted and ready to go back in this week.
took the opportunity to have a 3:55 centre added - tailshaft was pretty banged up so replaced with a new balanced one
New brake lines and handbrake cable(rusted in the tube plus the tubes were all cracked and falling to bits plus some new return springs - looks pretty sweet
Gearbox had wrong pin bearings fitted so had completely knackered the main shaft - gears were all good though so no major dramas - new bearings and seals and speedo cable connector.
Steering box was in pretty rough shape so needed a fair bit - bushes / bearings and the worm gear were all knackered - years of farm driving.
All done by Barry at Dinkum Autos.

[Errol62]

Good work Wally
Any detail on what was done to the worm gear? Rare Spares are the only source I am aware of and that's for a change over box.
Cheers
Clay


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[FJWALLY]

Could be rare parts Errol - Barry has been involved in a lot of the spares development for rares so they do use some common parts - although he said he doesn't like a lot of their china parts like the hand brake cables etc and prefers to have them made locally.

I'll ask him to be sure and get back to you.

One of the next projects I need to do to complete the mechanical side of things is the drag link - Barry says he removes the tube and fits a HR solid link which is supposedly same dimensions but does not have the slop issues of the FB/EK unit which makes a lot of sense to me to move to.

[Errol62]

Cheers Wally
Would like to get hold of a worm gear if possible.

Careful. Next thing you'll be going HR suspension and brakes. Oops, hot rod.


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[FJWALLY]

haha - yes it is sometimes difficult to keep on the old straight and narrow - if the drag link is ok once it's all assembled I wont bother but if it's still sloppy I would prefer to have that firmer responsive steering as I plan to drive it plenty.

[Errol62]

It's all relative. Firm and responsive. What you want is a VB commodore!

Seriously though king pin or ball joint won't make too much difference in my opinion. As long as it is all in good order. Easy enough to find where the slop is by turning the wheel while looking at various components. Likewise with the suspension bushes. Jack up the wheel and try and move top and bottom in opposition. Even better take off the wheel and see if top and bottom outer a arms will move forward and back in opposite directions. You will soon see where the wear is and not hard to replace. You probably already know this. Sorry but I love to dribble.

A worthwhile mod I have seen is to brace the steering box top to the inner guard. Particularly if you can see the box moving slightly when you test the steering. Easy to make up a plate or purchase on eBay. https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/322062556897


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[FJWALLY]

Yes - I have been working through all the suspension and steering components - really only the drag link left now that the steering box is done.
I know they have always been a bit of a tractor to drive so I'm not expecting perfection but better than 180 degree before any change would be great.
The steering box bracket is one of Barry's specialities so yes - it is definitely now fitted with one.