fbekholden.com

Apparently this 132 came out of this FB, the previous owner purchased them both at different times as the seller at the time was reluctant to sell the engine with the car at first.

What suggestions you got, rather not take engine bits n pieces off and on

That last photo looks WAY wrong - has to be your problem

Lex,

Craig is right - definitely engine tilt:

Top of breather: You get 35mm, I get 50mm. 15mm out.
Front of rocker cover: You get 55mm, I get 80mm. 25mm out.
Fan tip: You get 10mm, I get 60mm. 50mm out.

The FB front outrigger is nearly flat (turn your head to look at the photo below... it's on a tilt). Compare the top of the outrigger to the straight lines of the pavers behind it.



Sound like you may need to cut and shut the mounting plate to drop it.... or if there is not enough meat, change the outrigger

Cheers,
Harv

Looking at that I'd say its the wrong front end. The dish is too deep in the centre as the gap is huge between it and the sump. Something looks to have chopped or modified with the front end or outrigger. Has the outrigger been welded on also? Should only have 4 rivets and two spot welds on either side.
This looks more and more like a FX/FJ front end that has had the wishbones changed and outrigger (not sure if its dimensionally possible to do that.....been too long for me).

Thanks fellas,

Sometimes you just dont know what to look for when you assume you have the correct bits n peices (even retailers give ya the bum steer). This is where experience and correct info from blokes like you can go a long way and be passed on to others

So..........,I had another stock FB, that came with my project, the body had way too much rust and holes etc to bring back, but I stripped her out anyway, and I've doubled up on most things. I'll do some front end comparisons, i'll post pics. More investigation is at hand

Cheers again

I dont know how far yo ulive from SunnyTim in Brizvegas but he would be th eman to talk to - he has an FJ as well as many FB/EK's and would be able to set you straight. Send him a PM and see if you can catch up with him for a brain pickin' session ....

OK........

I have compared the the cross member that came out of the stock 138 FB Sedan I stripped down and the cross member that came with my project car, they're identical, original with rivets and spot welds as in pic.

I think the problem can be solved by replacing the 132 engine cover plate with the 138 cover plate. As you can
seeby comparison the distance between the bolt holes and bottom of the plate are 80mm and 40mm respectively. This displacement will then give me realistic distances.

The next question is, is the 138 plate a simple swap with the 132? .....Let's see

Lex68 wrote:The next question is, is the 138 plate a simple swap with the 132? .....Let's see

Simple, no. Painful, yes. It's a cam-out, half the motor in pieces exercise from memory. Not a bad idea to get rid of the fibre timing gear (if it still has one) while you are there.

Better than having to find a new front cross member or outrigger though.

Cheers,
Harv

Harv's,

I thought you could just remove the timing gear, then thrust plate, then take plate off? or is it because the thrust plate is integral to the camshaft and can't slide off after the timing gear comes off.

argghh
out riggers are dumb

Lex68 wrote:I thought you could just remove the timing gear, then thrust plate, then take plate off? or is it because the thrust plate is integral to the camshaft and can't slide off after the timing gear comes off.

Radiator out, harmonic balancer off, timing cover off, timing gear off, thrust plate off then unbolt the engine plate and remove it. This would mean putting a timing gear back onto the cam whilst the cam is still in place. It can be done (and has been done at the roadside many times), but I'm not a big fan of leaving the cam in place whilst belting the new timing gear on.

Cheers,
Harv

Harv's

My thoughts as well, I was reluctant to hit the new balancer on let alone a timing gear. Might remove it and get the timing gear set replaced. From what I've read it's only a matter of time before the carbon gears let go. A shame, it looks in good shape. In the boot for roadside emergency!

Will take picks of progress.

Cheers have a good w/end all

Radiator out, harmonic balancer off, timing cover off, timing gear off, thrust plate off then unbolt the engine plate and remove it. This would mean putting a timing gear back onto the cam whilst the cam is still in place. It can be done (and has been done at the roadside many times), but I'm not a big fan of leaving the cam in place whilst belting the new timing gear on.


Hi Folks
An elderly mechanic passed on some home made tools when he worked on grey motors for a job. This one pictured below allows you to replace the timing gear whilst the camshaft remains in place. Remove fuel pump and install this in its place. Provides support for the cam whilst you drift the timing gear on. Works a treat.
Regards
Stephen

Man that is one clever tool . Beats the hell out of using a screwdriver.

Cheers,
Harv

Can definately see the practical application of this tool,

The post extending from the plate conforms to the shape of the shaft and sits behind the lobe thus preventing
the rear end of shaft punching out the welsh plug.

Thanks for your input

Cheers Lex