V8EK4us- 383 SBC,4 link,Torana f/e - 12 months on...

V8EK4us · Post by **V8EK4us** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 1:43 am

got it, as the suspension compresses, the distance (eye to eye) on the left side link bar effectively gets shorter (forcing the pivot anti-clockwise) and the the distance (eye to eye) on the right side link bar effectively gets longer (forcing the pivot clockwise), presto, binding of the link!

So the rule is that th link bars/rods must be setup so when the suspension moves they either both effectively get longer or both get shorter, thus rotating the pivot in the same direction.

EK283 · Post by **EK283** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 7:40 am

Phew,
I couldn't go to sleep last night until I got that off my chest!!!!!!
Mate thats exactly what I was trying to say. Like I said it took me 3 goes to get it right and believe me it made me scratch my head a couple of times

I often wonder what the people who invent stufff like this are eating or drinking at the time, they are a strange breed allright

So with this new found knowledge I am looking foward to seeing your final set up.

Regards Greg

MINT62 · Post by **MINT62** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 9:06 am

Loving your work Gary

whats a build without a few little set backs

mrs ratbox · Post by **mrs ratbox** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 10:55 am

this made my head hert

i'de be putting the leaf springs back in OR refer back to
Panardrod sounds like a great idea, might stick with that.

they work on many normal street cars and some that are quite quick around corners etc, my mates FC is a very simular rear end setup to yors with panard rod coil overs 4 link and we have been round turn 1 at eastern creek VERY fast and lived to tell the story, it is primarilly setup for straight line work (drag racing)

V8EK4us · Post by **V8EK4us** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 12:48 pm

ratbox wrote:this made my head hert i'de be putting the leaf springs back in OR refer back to
Panardrod sounds like a great idea, might stick with that.

they work on many normal street cars and some that are quite quick around corners etc, my mates FC is a very simular rear end setup to yors with panard rod coil overs 4 link and we have been round turn 1 at eastern creek VERY fast and lived to tell the story, it is primarilly setup for straight line work (drag racing)

You and me both RB!!

Now that there is no option but to run a watts link with bars parallel and horizontal I have returned to my original plan at the start of this build, the trusty Panard Rod. I have spent hours in the shed measuring and cutting templates but no matter what I do The Watts link causes too many other changes that I don't want changed as they were also in my original plans for good reason.

I have made a new Panard Rod and total diff movement to the left is now only 2.5mm on max travel (0.0 to 1mm on normal road use!), so all the mucking around has at least achieved that.

Gees.... I'm glad that's over, NEXT!!!!

J · Post by J » Sun Mar 08, 2009 7:03 pm

I dont get it

why do you need random thingamabobs coming off the diff?

spyder6052 · Post by **spyder6052** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 7:06 pm

to stop the diff from moving sideways

FB MAD · Post by **FB MAD** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 7:24 pm

Yep

.

V8EK4us · Post by **V8EK4us** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 7:27 pm

J wrote:I dont get it
why do you need random thingamabobs coming off the diff?

J, its a 4 link rear end setup and must have either a Panard Rod or Watts Link to stop the diff moving sideways (Commodores, Falcons etc all run Panards or Watts links (unless it's independent suspension), so it is not unusual, only for an EK

Normal leaf springs stop the diff moving sideways (not completely), you will hear people comment that their "leaf sprung" car with wide wheels rubs the tyres when cornering, that's because the springs, shackles and bushes are all moving and letting the diff move sideways.
You may have also seen "tramp rods" fitted to a leaf spring suspension (usually chrome and bolted under the spring), this is to stop the diff from rotating under hard acceleration, the rotation of the diff results in changed pinion angle and causes "axle hop". Adjustable 4 links don't have this problem as the top and bottom 4 link bars lock the diff and stop it from rotating.By adjusting the 4 link bars you can make the car do the following under hard acceleration:
1/ Drop it backside by allowing the force to push the diff UP, great for burnouts as it reduces traction.
2/ Maintain ride height or raise it's backside by forcing the diff DOWN which is great for a good launch.
3/ Slight squat under hard acceleration which is usually set for normal street use.
4/ You can also change the pinion angle (within reason).

Hope that explains it for you.

J · Post by J » Sun Mar 08, 2009 8:29 pm

oh cool thanks for the explanation....
I think I might need that

too fat in the back!

Trev · Post by **Trev** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 9:18 pm

J, might not be too fat, how much space do you have from the inside of your tyre to the wheel well?
If you have enough room for the wheels to fit under try and get your hands on a LC/LJ Torana rear end it may fix your problem

, Trev

.

FB MAD · Post by **FB MAD** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 9:39 pm

If you need the measurements for an LC/LJ rear end I have one here I can measure for you.From memory they are 1.5 inch narrower each side than the original rear track and as Trev said, it would help your wheel scrub problem.

Smooth customs · Post by **Smooth customs** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 11:05 pm

V8EK4us wrote:
ratbox wrote:this made my head hert i'de be putting the leaf springs back in OR refer back to
Panardrod sounds like a great idea, might stick with that.

they work on many normal street cars and some that are quite quick around corners etc, my mates FC is a very simular rear end setup to yors with panard rod coil overs 4 link and we have been round turn 1 at eastern creek VERY fast and lived to tell the story, it is primarilly setup for straight line work (drag racing)
You and me both RB!!

Now that there is no option but to run a watts link with bars parallel and horizontal I have returned to my original plan at the start of this build, the trusty Panard Rod. I have spent hours in the shed measuring and cutting templates but no matter what I do The Watts link causes too many other changes that I don't want changed as they were also in my original plans for good reason.

I have made a new Panard Rod and total diff movement to the left is now only 2.5mm on max travel (0.0 to 1mm on normal road use!), so all the mucking around has at least achieved that.

Gees.... I'm glad that's over, NEXT!!!!

You have been busy since last night.

But all aspects and options have to be looked at, you now will move on happier that there is no other way this area can be set up.

V8EK4us · Post by **V8EK4us** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 11:14 pm

Smooth customs wrote:You have been busy since last night.

But all aspects and options have to be looked at, you now will move on happier that there is no other way this area can be set up.

Thanks Smooth, I'm happy

Maybe hack the complete back end out of the next one

NEXT one!!

Post by **Blacky** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:24 am

Why couldnt you run a diagonal with the lower bars of your 4 link ? - that will give you back your clearance for your pipes