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Mains 1 to 6 came up 0.001 to 0.0015" clearence with plastigauge, but the rear main has been problematic. It has no end float clearence, infactvit is virtually negative. Rotating clearence under initial torque up to 70 ft -lb came up signifocantly less than the maximum 0.003".There is no damage evident to the shell, or journal. Prior to assembly however, I was surprised to see very minor burring on one mating surface of the cap, which I gave a quick clean up with a file. Just typing this I am realising the burring could be contributing to th excessive clearence, although not the lack of thrust clearence. The shells actually stick to the crank when I uninstall.

Pipe up ye experienced engine builders. Should I attempt to dress the thrust surfaces or just let them bed in?

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Clay,

I had the same problem when rebuilding a motor for my X2 way back when. The rear main bearings were overwidth on the thrust faces. Result: I couldn't even get the crankshaft to sit in place. Called the engine reconditioner,explained the problem, and he said to bring in the crank and bearing shells. He set the crank up in the grinder, and took a smidgen off each thrust face until the bearing fitted.

You might have to do the same.

Rob

Thanks Rob. I will chat to the machinists.

I will reinstall the old rear main shells for a check as part of the elimination process. If I can find them......

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When building chev engines I always hit the crank back and forth with a block of wood and hammer to true up the thrust bearing.

I also use 1200 grit on a flat surface and rub the bearing thrust face flat if it requires it.

You could also try different bearings as the the tolerances may vary in production.

What brand of bearings you are using ?

Greg

Australian made ACL Greg. I’ll definitely have a play with the float as you suggest with trueing and 1200 emery, before I recheck vertical clearance.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

This morning I reinstalled the old rear main shells and the plastigauge indicates excessive clearance. The journal and bearing surfaces don’t appear worn. I wonder if the cap is being prevented from torquing down completely. I mentioned earlier there was some burring on one side of the cap face which I cleaned up. I honestly have no idea how this occurred and certainly don’t recall dropping or damaging the cap, but there it is. I’m going to go back and revisit my notes on the previous build and see if there was any issue with clearance on the rear main.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

I've got similar dramas at present with the motor for the FED.

I had the crank in and torqued, then realised I could not get a sump to suit the girdle. Cut the girdle down, so it had to be tunnel honed again. In taking the bearings out I could not get them to budge. I got ham-fisted tapping them out, and put a poofteenth of a lip on the edges I tapped.

Should probably have just filed back that lip, but thought I would be cute and put new bearings in.

Honed, new bearings, check mains clearance with plastigauge. 5 thou at the balancer, 3 thou, 4 thou, 5 thou at the flywheel. Factory spec is 0.8-3.4 thou. Drag cars can run somewhat looser, and for a grey crank diameter 2-3 thou would be considered "loose".

Try rocking the crank fore and aft, stuff-all end float.

Spoke to the machinist. Suspect the King bearings I used are not up to par - not unheard of for them, and ACL reccomened instead. The King bearings are also made to suit cranks where the thrust face has been machined back, so are oversized for a virgin thrust face. He is not over happy with plastigauge either - OK for a rough out, but should be done with a bore gauge.

Back to the shop when I get a chance, check, mebbe new bearings. This damn thing needs wingnuts or velcro on it given how many times it is being made and unmade.

Cheers,
Harv

Yes, I've burred the bearing ends and tidied up with a file too.

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Harv Said,
Back to the shop when I get a chance, check, mebbe new bearings. This damn thing needs wingnuts or velcro on it given how many times it is being made and unmade.


Its quite an artform building motors and can be very time consuming. Once you start measuring adjusting cleaning it can take 2 or three assemblies before its spot on.
Slapping it together without checking all the tolerances will more than likely give you greif.

Greg

Wise words, thanks again for your guidance friend.

I pulled out the glass and linished the thrust faces to a poofteenth clearence.Also cleaned up the cap face a bit more, and gave the cap bolts a good oiling. I noticed one shoulder was binding slightly in the top of the cap. Yet another issue, coincidence??

After reassembling minus cap side rear seal and checking rotation I re-measured 0.003", near enough. So happy with that, the rotating assembly is all buttoned up. Fit rings and slugs next.I am thinking of fitting this chrome sump for a bit of a talking point but heard they may be prone to leaking. It came off an old speedway car, and has an oil temp sender, not that I'd be likely to use that.

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It is official. I am a moron....

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Ok, pistons in, some of them twice due to forgetting to space the ring gaps. Top ring away from the exhaust valve. Measured the deck height around 0.03”. The cam is in, coated with Glen’s magic dry moly spray.

I thought I had a head gasket but it is a blue motor one. I could modify, but might save it.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Nah, bung it together.....
This engine bay has had more touch ups than Benny Hill's personal assistant.
I should probably do the wiper motor conversion while I'm at it......

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I turned it over about 10 times upside down to try and prime the pump. All the pushrods had rotated 90 degrees. Happy days.

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I normally just bung an airline down the dipstick tube , give it a burst of air while turning it over and voila - oil pressure