WALLY'S EK

Post photos of your pride and joy, or updates on your rebuild!

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FJWALLY
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Re: WALLY'S EK

Post by FJWALLY »

Here you go - straight from the donkeys mouth
Battery will be relocated in a couple weeks to make room for the blower ImageImageImageImageImage


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In the Shed
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Re: WALLY'S EK

Post by In the Shed »

Nice, looks neat indeed. Surely that wine can be cured with a good beer :lol:
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Stephen
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FJWALLY
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Re: WALLY'S EK

Post by FJWALLY »

In the Shed wrote:Nice, looks neat indeed. Surely that wine can be cured with a good beer :lol:
Regards
Stephen
Beer fixes all kinds of wines - good point Stephen ImageImage


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Errol62
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Re: WALLY'S EK

Post by Errol62 »

Smik looking unit Rob.

Can you explain the advantage in wiring to starter vs battery per conventional?
Cheers
Clay


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FJWALLY
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Re: WALLY'S EK

Post by FJWALLY »

Errol62 wrote:Smik looking unit Rob.

Can you explain the advantage in wiring to starter vs battery per conventional?
Cheers
Clay


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Pretty simple Clay as the starter is direct wired to positive on battery anyway its the same path - dont think there is any advantage


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Errol62
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Re: WALLY'S EK

Post by Errol62 »

Cheers rob. Aesthetics maybe.


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EK283
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Re: WALLY'S EK

Post by EK283 »

That does look great, clever idea to keep it looking period.

Zero electrical advantage on the starter terminal just looks less busy to the eye.

Regards Greg
So many cars so little time!
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FJWALLY
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Re: WALLY'S EK

Post by FJWALLY »

yes just saves another big wire in the engine bay - I'm going to move the battery to back anyway so will be one wire from back to starter to alternator so it's super neat around the blower.
Errol62 wrote: Fri Aug 02, 2019 9:00 am Cheers rob. Aesthetics maybe.


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FJWALLY
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Re: WALLY'S EK

Post by FJWALLY »

Battery tray delete - plenty of real-estate there now Image


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Errol62
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Re: WALLY'S EK

Post by Errol62 »

Interested to see how you are routing cables to rear rob.


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FJWALLY
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Re: WALLY'S EK

Post by FJWALLY »

Yeah It's a challenging one - I'm leaning towards running it into the cabin just behind the starter motor and along the trans tunnel under the mat then under the seat straight out the back wall - use a couple of nice thick grommets to insulate and then it's out of the weather and free from any potential damage - maybe run a strip of rubber or cover it in mastic for extra insulation from damage from feet etc - the sparky was thinking of running it along the chassis rail but I think it's too exposed and need add a heap more clips etc - the tray will sit in the area between the diff tunnel and the support beam - not directly up against the cabin wall so it has the maximum amount of air ventilation all around it - a lot of free area around there so heat should not be a problem.
Errol62 wrote: Wed Aug 14, 2019 11:12 am Interested to see how you are routing cables to rear rob.


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Errol62
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Re: WALLY'S EK

Post by Errol62 »

That is what I did in my sedan. Brake and fuel lines don’t seem to get damaged so I thought about following them with the ute. The further aft the battery is mounted, the more benefit to handling.

What about access? I want my tray floor to be watertight so I was thinking of building a box section in the false floor, with latching lid in matching material, but with a drain. There is a plug hole in about the right area. Regarding the air circulation many use a marine battery box. These have minimal venting. Wogked in the daily driven sedan over five years.
Cheers
Clay


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FJWALLY
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Re: WALLY'S EK

Post by FJWALLY »

Access for me if pretty easy as my planks are all individual so remove 8-10 screws and I can get into it - I may create some small access cover plates so if need be I can get to the terminals to clean in a rush - not sure yet - if the battery is installed properly with some anti-corrosion paste they rarely need attention - a maintenance free battery is a must so I might look at something a bit fancier than what I have now that looks dont matter and reliability takes over.

Mine will always have the tonneau cover on so water should not be an issue beyond a few dribbles here and there and there is drain holes in the subfloor as well.
Errol62 wrote: Wed Aug 14, 2019 12:45 pm That is what I did in my sedan. Brake and fuel lines don’t seem to get damaged so I thought about following them with the ute. The further aft the battery is mounted, the more benefit to handling.

What about access? I want my tray floor to be watertight so I was thinking of building a box section in the false floor, with latching lid in matching material, but with a drain. There is a plug hole in about the right area. Regarding the air circulation many use a marine battery box. These have minimal venting. Wogked in the daily driven sedan over five years.
Cheers
Clay


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Errol62
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Re: WALLY'S EK

Post by Errol62 »

I’m sure your sparky has already told you to use a thumping great cable to lower resistance. I used around a 20mm diameter multi strand copper. Can’t remember where I sourced it. Larger output battery also is warranted I was told due to the longer run, but then mine was aft of the driver side rear wheel. You’re right about low maintenance until you need a jump start. Possibly you can get a clamp on the starter nut but need to be careful not to short anything out in the process.


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EK283
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Re: WALLY'S EK

Post by EK283 »

Clay is right !

Bigger cable for the starter current.

Most people fail with the earth return, it needs to be the same size as the battery positive cable. I run 2 earth returns one off the starter and one off the gearbox, makes it al work well.

Greg
So many cars so little time!
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