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Re: WA fb special

Posted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 8:39 pm
by Errol62
Ditto Greg and Rob. 1986 Pretty much a bolt up job apart from swapping snouts, dummying red six mounts and a big surprise when I realised the M20 box required actual modification to the floor.

Just measure diagonals from snout to front mounting bolt holes to make sure it's square.

Sent from my SM-A705YN using Tapatalk


Re: WA fb special

Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 10:27 am
by mph
Thanks guys , trying to sort things and parts to get back into it for my next break.

Re: WA fb special

Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 2:26 pm
by rosco
Neil seems to have the engine mount issue clarified for you.
I cheated and had mine done by Rares when there was a lot of HR front ends being fitted to early Holdens.

I'll have a look in my logbook and see if I can make some suggestions to start with on the length of those compression spacers.
From memory, I started long and began to cut back from there.... it was a bit of a pain fitting/removing/re-fitting shortened lengths - but I did get there...

Back later with some specs.. of course, yours will be different - the mount rubber insulators will be different from mine.... mine were "hand cut" to suit.

frats,
Rosco

Re: WA fb special

Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2020 9:56 pm
by mph
rosco wrote:Neil seems to have the engine mount issue clarified for you.
I cheated and had mine done by Rares when there was a lot of HR front ends being fitted to early Holdens.

I'll have a look in my logbook and see if I can make some suggestions to start with on the length of those compression spacers.
From memory, I started long and began to cut back from there.... it was a bit of a pain fitting/removing/re-fitting shortened lengths - but I did get there...

Back later with some specs.. of course, yours will be different - the mount rubber insulators will be different from mine.... mine were "hand cut" to suit.

frats,
Rosco
Rosco were yours cut hr or early rubbers

Re: WA fb special

Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2020 6:15 pm
by rosco
[/quote]Rosco were yours cut hr or early rubbers
[/quote]

Just had a look in my logbook - we haven't got to this bit yet in my thread.
I used EK top mount rubbers under the cups and HR intermediate rubbers between the sub-frame and cross-member.
I had to cut the HR rubbers to get the outrigger up high enough to fit the insulation rubber.
All four cuts were pretty crude - and sanded down with 40 grit emery to size.
I didn't write down what the final sizes were - but recall that the cuts resulted in about a 3/8" slice being taken from all.
Sanding might have taken more off the front ones than the rear ones...
If I had not done this, I would have ended up with more compression on the front two cross-member mount rubbers due to it being angled upwards towards the front.

When I fitted the metal compression tube spacers - they were too short... initially, I went without them and simply torqued up the four mount bolts.
This caused the insulation rubbers to "mushroom" and this resulted in a very "hard" ride over pot-holes.

It was some time later when I started reading the workshop manual again that I realised I had not re-visited compression spacers.
I made up my own and eventually got the compression/torque specs very, very close.... the ride after doing this was a lot "softer"..

Hope this helps.

My suspicion is that the "kit" which is now available - will avoid all this fuss.

frats,
Rosco

Re: WA fb special

Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 11:59 am
by mph
rosco wrote:
Rosco were yours cut hr or early rubbers
[/quote]

Just had a look in my logbook - we haven't got to this bit yet in my thread.
I used EK top mount rubbers under the cups and HR intermediate rubbers between the sub-frame and cross-member.
I had to cut the HR rubbers to get the outrigger up high enough to fit the insulation rubber.
All four cuts were pretty crude - and sanded down with 40 grit emery to size.
I didn't write down what the final sizes were - but recall that the cuts resulted in about a 3/8" slice being taken from all.
Sanding might have taken more off the front ones than the rear ones...
If I had not done this, I would have ended up with more compression on the front two cross-member mount rubbers due to it being angled upwards towards the front.

When I fitted the metal compression tube spacers - they were too short... initially, I went without them and simply torqued up the four mount bolts.
This caused the insulation rubbers to "mushroom" and this resulted in a very "hard" ride over pot-holes.

It was some time later when I started reading the workshop manual again that I realised I had not re-visited compression spacers.
I made up my own and eventually got the compression/torque specs very, very close.... the ride after doing this was a lot "softer"..

Hope this helps.

My suspicion is that the "kit" which is now available - will avoid all this fuss.

frats,
Rosco[/quote]Wow some serious memory you have with the vehicle mate. I need to go back through my build thread on here to remember what I've done to my fb in the past 6 years.
Thank you for your input
Feel free not to spoil your story line. Im happy to wait. Kind of like a good tv series coming out each week.

Re: WA fb special

Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 12:04 pm
by mph
New shiny parts and not so shiny presents arrived for fly in day.
Drop spindles and hk girlock brakes hope not to run into issues with them.Image

Re: WA fb special

Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 12:36 pm
by ardiesse
. . . I think you might have HT V8/HG calipers. I can just make out spacers between the two caliper halves. In which case you'll have to use 5/8" thick brake discs. The HGs had a crescent-shaped spacer which went between the steering knuckle and the caliper to locate the caliper correctly over the thicker brake disc. But you're using aftermarket steering knuckles.

Rob

Re: WA fb special

Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 1:13 pm
by mph
ardiesse wrote:. . . I think you might have HT V8/HG calipers. I can just make out spacers between the two caliper halves. In which case you'll have to use 5/8" thick brake discs. The HGs had a crescent-shaped spacer which went between the steering knuckle and the caliper to locate the caliper correctly over the thicker brake disc. But you're using aftermarket steering knuckles.


The last pic is this the cresent spacer, I called the guy and he said he forgot to chuck them in the mail.

Rob
Ok so I'm trying to wrap my head around this, it does look to have what appears a holden made agricultural engineered spacer. I'm not to sure on the cresent shapped spacer did this bolt to hub then the caliper to the cresent spacer to lift it higher above the disk.
Steering knuckles i have are hr drum to go on the drop spindles. ImageImageImage


Image

Re: WA fb special

Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 4:26 pm
by ardiesse
You've got the crescent-shaped spacers. Good. You'll see that the holes in the spacer line up with the mounting holes in the caliper. These spacers go between the caliper and the steering knuckle (and it's a fiddle lining them up too).

To accommodate the thicker brake discs, the inner half of the caliper had to be moved inwards 1/16" (that's what the crescent spacer does) and the outer half of the caliper outwards 1/16" (that's what the 1/8" spacer between the caliper halves does).

Do you still have the old brake discs? I'd recommend putting them back on the hubs and doing a trial assembly of all the parts to make sure the caliper is correctly located (i) radially on the disc and (ii) sideways.

You can check (i) with the pads in place. The outside of the pad should more or less line up with the outside of the disc.
You can check (ii) with the pads removed and eyeballing the clearance between disc and caliper on both sides of the disc.

Are your new steering knuckles dimensioned to take HK-T-G discs and calipers?
I'll have to post this reply and look back through the thread.

Rob

Re: WA fb special

Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 4:52 pm
by ardiesse
Found. Mick's "Hr Front" thread says the CRS stub axles come drilled to take 13" imperial brakes one side and 14" imperial brakes the other.

Here's a thought: you could market your hubs and calipers on eBay as genuine 350 or XU-1 parts and sell them for ten times what you bought them for. HT V8/HG and XU-1 had 5/8" thick discs, and used these hubs and calipers; the difference is in the diameter of the brake discs (and the steering knuckles they were bolted to) to suit 14" or 13" wheels. So you have a choice between HG and XU-1 brake discs.

With drop stubs you might have problems with the calipers hitting the upper control arms on both full steering lock and full suspension bump. Perhaps mounting the calipers on the trailing side (a la Torana) may help.

Rob

Re: WA fb special

Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 5:39 pm
by gpi
mick couldnt identify his calipers, this is the oracle:

http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/top ... -calipers/

Re: WA fb special

Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 7:51 pm
by Errol62
The calipers I have on the hr front that I put in my sedan in 1986 have Girling cast in them. Never seen another set.

Re: WA fb special

Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 7:57 pm
by gpi
pics or it didnt happen. they were a great band.

Re: WA fb special

Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 8:02 pm
by Errol62
I will when I get home but may need a reminder