Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:58 pm
White roof for sure..... look a little something like this 
Good to see the tunnels end in sight Malcom
Any chance of a lap in the passenger seat at the nats ?
Page 24 of 53
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 10:00 pm
oh ma gawd yella , Why the hell would you paint such a creation the colour of a sunflower hehehehehehehehe "Joke alert"
Good to see the tunnels end in sight Malcom
Any chance of a lap in the passenger seat at the nats ?
Good to see the tunnels end in sight Malcom
Any chance of a lap in the passenger seat at the nats ?
Progress
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 10:23 pm
He again,
Just a couple more things, I picked up some zinc plating today . I
must say things in the shed are starting to get exciting. Not bad
400k round trip to Brisvagas to pick up that.
All the other nuts & bolts and washers are going to be stainless.
Today also did the floor and a heap of other underneath bits 2 pack
black. All the other parts I had sandblasted and etch primed, so it just
got a light scuff, and then I did a wet on wet, 2 coats of primer, wait aprox. 45 minutes
then straight over with the black 2 pack.
Looks great.
First, with the floor pan cleaned down and ready for the sound proofing.
All the seams were sealed and the bare metal covered.
Then with the sound proofing applied, this was done a couple of days
ago giving it time to dry out properly after application.
Then the 2 pack black after being sprayed on. Photo's are pretty hard to
show how it came out. I'm happy with it.
Hopefully tomorrow I will get the front end, diff, fuel tank painted in the black also.
Cheers
Just a couple more things, I picked up some zinc plating today
. I must say things in the shed are starting to get exciting. Not bad
400k round trip to Brisvagas to pick up that.
All the other nuts & bolts and washers are going to be stainless.
Today also did the floor and a heap of other underneath bits 2 pack
black. All the other parts I had sandblasted and etch primed, so it just
got a light scuff, and then I did a wet on wet, 2 coats of primer, wait aprox. 45 minutes
then straight over with the black 2 pack.
Looks great.
First, with the floor pan cleaned down and ready for the sound proofing.
All the seams were sealed and the bare metal covered.
Then with the sound proofing applied, this was done a couple of days
ago giving it time to dry out properly after application.
Then the 2 pack black after being sprayed on. Photo's are pretty hard to
show how it came out. I'm happy with it.
Hopefully tomorrow I will get the front end, diff, fuel tank painted in the black also.
Cheers
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 10:39 pm
Nice work Mal !!!
Always love the shots you provide mate, damn I can imagine the eagerness to put it all together with all those parts splayed out. Keep the shots coming !
Always love the shots you provide mate, damn I can imagine the eagerness to put it all together with all those parts splayed out. Keep the shots coming !
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 10:43 pm
Hi Malcolm. good to see paint going on. i like it alot 
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 10:45 pm
Hi Malcolm,
I am working the underside of the rear pass seat and diff housing at present - got to tell you, I'd much prefer to have access to it as you do instead of spending days on my back and having everything fall in/into me.......
Just finished the fishoil coating tonight - primer, then multi top coats follow.
Do not wish to spray 2K - very worried about the iso-cyanate.......
Like the idea of over-coating the sealer - happy to hear you have sealed the metal prior to applying it........
ONe word on stainless - although you are probably aware of this - I was a bit concerned of dis-similar metal syndrome - I found a coating which electrically conducts and also prevents seizing - Caterpillar used something similar many, many years ago which was intended for alloy and steel or stainless and steel............ but is no longer available.
The Loctite company market a substitute - its product number is 76769 - it is marketed as an anti seize - silver paste............
I have fitted over three hundred stainless bolts, nuts, washers and self taps to mine, each coated with this paste.
Are you intending to grind and polish the bolt heads - give you some stuff on that if you are.................
great pix - I am holding out to see this one.................
frats,
Rosco
I am working the underside of the rear pass seat and diff housing at present - got to tell you, I'd much prefer to have access to it as you do instead of spending days on my back and having everything fall in/into me.......
Just finished the fishoil coating tonight - primer, then multi top coats follow.
Do not wish to spray 2K - very worried about the iso-cyanate.......
Like the idea of over-coating the sealer - happy to hear you have sealed the metal prior to applying it........
ONe word on stainless - although you are probably aware of this - I was a bit concerned of dis-similar metal syndrome - I found a coating which electrically conducts and also prevents seizing - Caterpillar used something similar many, many years ago which was intended for alloy and steel or stainless and steel............ but is no longer available.
The Loctite company market a substitute - its product number is 76769 - it is marketed as an anti seize - silver paste............
I have fitted over three hundred stainless bolts, nuts, washers and self taps to mine, each coated with this paste.
Are you intending to grind and polish the bolt heads - give you some stuff on that if you are.................
great pix - I am holding out to see this one.................
frats,
Rosco
Zinc plating
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 10:56 pm
Mal, roughly, how much did the zinc plating cost and what time span did it take and what prep did you have to do to the goodies. Also where abouts did you get it done.Dan
Progress
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 10:56 pm
Hey Rosco,
I'm amazed at the knowledge you have. And yes, I also learnt a long time ago about stainless bolts and the beauty of never seize. I did all my Mustang with stainless bolts and also used never seize on every one of them.
As far as the stainless bolts go, the heads are just going to be left the stainless finish (no polishing) as to match up with the rest of the zinc.
Dan, the bits you see in the photo cost $265. All the parts I got done I just degreased, they did the rest. All my plating is being done at Pine Rivers Electroplaters, 3/23 Paisley Drive, Lawnton Ph. 38812018. A mate of mine out here has an old Caddy he done up, he used them to do all the chrome on that and it looked shit hot. The zinc only took a week to do, chrome work is about 4 weeks wait.
Cheers
I'm amazed at the knowledge you have. And yes, I also learnt a long time ago about stainless bolts and the beauty of never seize. I did all my Mustang with stainless bolts and also used never seize on every one of them.
As far as the stainless bolts go, the heads are just going to be left the stainless finish (no polishing) as to match up with the rest of the zinc.
Dan, the bits you see in the photo cost $265. All the parts I got done I just degreased, they did the rest. All my plating is being done at Pine Rivers Electroplaters, 3/23 Paisley Drive, Lawnton Ph. 38812018. A mate of mine out here has an old Caddy he done up, he used them to do all the chrome on that and it looked shit hot. The zinc only took a week to do, chrome work is about 4 weeks wait.
Cheers
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 11:10 pm
Will look a treat Malcolm,
I feel a bit embarrassed to waffle on so much in a lot of my posts - people must be a bit sick of my drivel by now...........
I was of the opinion you would be up to speed with stainless - for the uninitiated, it comes as a bit of a shock - amazing material, and even more amazing at what problems it can cause........
Haven't had a "play" with marine grade yet - don't know what the difference in material is - it must be gold, by the price difference......
Just did all mine in 304 - absolutely chuffed by the way it grinds, hones and polishes - took me an hour per bolt head........never have to do it again....just a quick wipe over and it's as good as polishing chrome......
frats,
Rosco
I feel a bit embarrassed to waffle on so much in a lot of my posts - people must be a bit sick of my drivel by now...........
I was of the opinion you would be up to speed with stainless - for the uninitiated, it comes as a bit of a shock - amazing material, and even more amazing at what problems it can cause........
Haven't had a "play" with marine grade yet - don't know what the difference in material is - it must be gold, by the price difference......
Just did all mine in 304 - absolutely chuffed by the way it grinds, hones and polishes - took me an hour per bolt head........never have to do it again....just a quick wipe over and it's as good as polishing chrome......
frats,
Rosco
Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 12:09 am
The quarter trim looks good mal,very clever.That will break the colour up nicely.Floor looks good sealer and paint,never thought to paint over sealer.
Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:53 am
gday mal
loving the progress pics mate, exciting times indeed
a very thorough job on the floors there, should last forever
fingers X'd you'll have it ready for the nationals - if anyone can......you can
brings back memories
keep up the good work & dedication
p.s. like the white roof look also
regards ray
loving the progress pics mate, exciting times indeed
a very thorough job on the floors there, should last forever
fingers X'd you'll have it ready for the nationals - if anyone can......you can
brings back memories
keep up the good work & dedication
p.s. like the white roof look also
regards ray
Progress
Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:58 am
Thanks guys for the comments.
Rosco,
I don't think anyone minds reading a long post when it contains usefull info like yours does.
C/B,
The sound deadening I used is water based (paintable) and the only reason I like to paint over the sound deadening is for ease of cleaning. If you use bitumen based products on the underside, as you most probably know you cant paint over it and when it gets dirty its crap to clean. I'm using the bitumen based stuff on the inside of the floor for a bit more sound proofing.
Rosco,
I don't think anyone minds reading a long post when it contains usefull info like yours does.
C/B,
The sound deadening I used is water based (paintable) and the only reason I like to paint over the sound deadening is for ease of cleaning. If you use bitumen based products on the underside, as you most probably know you cant paint over it and when it gets dirty its crap to clean. I'm using the bitumen based stuff on the inside of the floor for a bit more sound proofing.
Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 8:17 am
Geez the zinc plating is expensive over on your side of the paddock !
I took the bits for my FB to get done and they quoted me $60 for up to 20kg of bits - whether you do one bonnet hinge or 19.9kg of stuff the price is the same so I went home and collected all the bits I could find and had the lot done - I now have enough bolts for about 3 cars.
Just a thought on your paint scheme - if you are going with the 2 tone effect, what about using trims off an FB wagon along the top of the fin and painting the roof and the bootlid in white ??
I took the bits for my FB to get done and they quoted me $60 for up to 20kg of bits - whether you do one bonnet hinge or 19.9kg of stuff the price is the same so I went home and collected all the bits I could find and had the lot done - I now have enough bolts for about 3 cars.
Just a thought on your paint scheme - if you are going with the 2 tone effect, what about using trims off an FB wagon along the top of the fin and painting the roof and the bootlid in white ??
parts
Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 8:55 am
Thanks Malcolm,
must be a bit thick today - have id'd all your zp parts but two - those behind the hood lock plate - the have a gooseneck bend in them............. maybe mine is missing something?
Are they the boodlid hinge arms? haven't taken mine out yet if they are.......
frats,
Rosco
must be a bit thick today - have id'd all your zp parts but two - those behind the hood lock plate - the have a gooseneck bend in them............. maybe mine is missing something?
Are they the boodlid hinge arms? haven't taken mine out yet if they are.......
frats,
Rosco
Progress
Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 3:51 pm
Blacky,
I too thought they were a bit on the expensive side
, how they explained it to me was that they wired all the pieces up instead of what they call barrol plating them, its supposed to give a better finish.
I have got the FB rear quater top mould on as well but I'm still not sure even about the roof being white yet.
Rosco,
I know the bits your talking about, and so far I've found quite a few things that I've forgotten to get done. And yes they are the boot hinges, a NOS pair came up on evilbay so I bid on them and got em, cost me $18 inc postage. Pretty good I thought.
I too thought they were a bit on the expensive side
, how they explained it to me was that they wired all the pieces up instead of what they call barrol plating them, its supposed to give a better finish. I have got the FB rear quater top mould on as well but I'm still not sure even about the roof being white yet.
Rosco,
I know the bits your talking about, and so far I've found quite a few things that I've forgotten to get done. And yes they are the boot hinges, a NOS pair came up on evilbay so I bid on them and got em, cost me $18 inc postage.
Pretty good I thought.