Thank you for askin, Ric.
Not much done in the past few years, it hasn't been out over our driveway for the last three - the last time it was out was returning from the Renmark nationals three years back.
It went up on blocks whilst I removed the steering box and had it fully reconditioned by Roger H of "Holdenrestoman"... who did an amazing job of it - I am yet to re-fit the wheels and enjoy the difference.
I did a bit more work in the engine bay, stripping back the two halves of the steering wheel column firewall plates and giving them "my" treatment in a plated paint finish. I also replaced the bolts retaining them and fitted more of the ground/polished stainless bolts that I have fitted to the engine bay.
I remove the covers periodically and polish/wax the chrome and stainless steel trim, occasionally give the paintwork a wipe over and re-apply Bowdens "Fully Slick" - then throw the covers on until next time.
I can't get it out of the garage whilst our caravan blocks its exit... I am working on something where I can "traverse" the car across to the other side of the driveway - then be able to make use of it.... that is still a "work in progress" background project at present.
It is timely that you post now - the old bus turned 57 two days back... still on full rego with original plates.
Again, Ric - thanks for asking about progress - think I've just about covered everthing over the past few years...
frats,
Rosco
rosco EK modified sedan
Re: rosco EK modified sedan
Wish her a happy birthday from me Rosco 
Cheers
Clay
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Cheers
Clay
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie
Re: rosco EK modified sedan
Thanks for the reply Rosco.
As Clay says, please wish the old girl many happy returns.
Mate, do you have any old (or new) interior & under bonnet shots.
Your old images are just amazing.
Ric.
As Clay says, please wish the old girl many happy returns.
Mate, do you have any old (or new) interior & under bonnet shots.
Your old images are just amazing.
Ric.
Re: rosco EK modified sedan
Ric,
I put together a complete series of articles on replacing the steering box, including prepping the alloy on the box for long term coating by POR "Glisten PC"... and painting the steering column, "honey pot" and associated items...
That series did not make this forum, but went out in the form of a group email post.... I took many pix of preparing the two half plates which fill the steering column aperture. I had to do a bit of panel beating to one of them, as it was damaged in 1983 when the red motor was fitted due to careless positioning of the motor using a block and tackle....
I will probably update the build/restoration at some time and am probably very much amiss that I have not done so for quite some time.
I am somewhat comforted to learn that my thread is being read to this day... it may give me impetus to add more to it...
The dear old girl was just 11 years old when I became the second owner... most of it was in "as new" condition, save that the front right fender had been replaced due to a traffic incident . and I know that it had one windscreen replaced. I had one smash on me at Tuncurry in 1977..... the windscreen which was fitted then is still in it - but on borrowed time.
There has been so much effort put into this vehicle to preserve it well into the 21st century.... everything that I can do to achieve this has been done.... the underbody is painted in POR 15, some of it overcoated with "Tie Coat" and then overcoated again in "Black Cote".... the thickness of coatings amounts to some considerable depth. The interior metal has also been well and truly protected... with numerous coatings of fishoilene, primers and top coats of epoxy enamel. The cavities in the frame, subframe and sills have all been coated with fishoil.... using a tube with a fan end to spread the oil completely around the internal walls - aerosol cans were used to propel the oil into the cavities.... all drain ports were plugged temporarily to ensure that a generous film was applied - the plugs were removed weeks later and the excess oil drained out into open cans... this process was repeated many times over.
Further to this, additional drain ports were drilled into every conceivable sump which may have retained water.....
All openings under the floor between floor pan etc and frame were plugged and sealed from external entrance...
The factory drain ports in the sills were opened again - after GMH crushed them shut when spot welding the inner and outer sills....
There are many, many things to do if you want to preserve what you have in your vehicle, Ric - but the very first place I would stress to begin is to fit rubber plugs to the two holes in the stone tray - immediately in front of the radiator - those holes are there to allow access to the outrigger mount bolts..... they should be plugged up.... I lost my original sub-frame to this, crap washes down into the subframe and can't get out.... it continues to build and will eventually rust out the front corners of the frame.... add to this, make sure that you clear out the two tiny drain ports each end of the front subframe member - on FB's - they may not have been provided.... so, drill them.
Rubbish passes into that part of the frame and can't get out.. it won't run uphill over the cross-member mounts... and will rust out the sub frame..... trust me, this one I know all about.
you might like to drill two holes in the rear beaver panel support floors as well... water will build up in there.
The side wells in the rear should have two drain ports in each - make sure they are kept open..... along with the drain ports in each door.
The front footwell is a place where things can permanently go into hiding.... it is also a great place for rust to start... especially if the dog-leg corners of your windscreen aperture have rusted out (just above the door rubber).... water will run in through there and build up in the lower base of the sub-frame mount area... I drilled two 1/4" holes in the front of the body/frame mount there... just to ensure that any water would run out again.
I first realised there was an issue in 1973...after washing the car - I could hear water "sloshing" around when moving it....... I was amazed at how much water came out when I drilled those two little holes.. and then found the cause... it was the dog-leg behind the door rubber.
All fixed pretty much then and there - and have never had a leak since....
When I resprayed the left side of the vehicle - I found that the steel retainers which hold the door molding trim were rusted...
I fitted nylon ones and used stainless self-tappers to secure them into the doors.
If you have a sedan - there is every likelihood that the rear roof trim molding retainers have rusted through as well... I repaired the damaged window aperture on both sides where this trim fits onto and fitted nylon tubes into the holes... I then made up stainless retainers to hold the trim in place.
I am a strong advocate for butyl mastic - Sikaflex 221 is good, but a little too permanent - making removal of anything sealed with it a massive undertaking without doing damage... butyl mastic is very appropriate sealant - but has its quirks.
On all my door/fender trims, I sealed the tops of the stainless moldings with grey butyl mastic... troweled it on using a thin spatula and wiped off the excess... only the upper joint, not the lower one.. I left mine open at the bottom so that anything which did get in there could flow out.... you would have to look very closely to my door/body trim moldings to see the grey butyl mastic - but, it is there to stop the crud running down under these moldings and building up to create rust....
Ok, that should keep you going for a bit....
These dear old girls are well worth preserving - they are probably the worst model ever that the General has produced which has potential rust issues.... but, strip them down back to bare metal and correctly treat and seal them - and they will outlive you.. and probalby your grandchildren.....
It has been a quest, but I believe i have reached the point where I am confident my dear old bus is "safe"....
frats,
Rosco
I put together a complete series of articles on replacing the steering box, including prepping the alloy on the box for long term coating by POR "Glisten PC"... and painting the steering column, "honey pot" and associated items...
That series did not make this forum, but went out in the form of a group email post.... I took many pix of preparing the two half plates which fill the steering column aperture. I had to do a bit of panel beating to one of them, as it was damaged in 1983 when the red motor was fitted due to careless positioning of the motor using a block and tackle....
I will probably update the build/restoration at some time and am probably very much amiss that I have not done so for quite some time.
I am somewhat comforted to learn that my thread is being read to this day... it may give me impetus to add more to it...
The dear old girl was just 11 years old when I became the second owner... most of it was in "as new" condition, save that the front right fender had been replaced due to a traffic incident . and I know that it had one windscreen replaced. I had one smash on me at Tuncurry in 1977..... the windscreen which was fitted then is still in it - but on borrowed time.
There has been so much effort put into this vehicle to preserve it well into the 21st century.... everything that I can do to achieve this has been done.... the underbody is painted in POR 15, some of it overcoated with "Tie Coat" and then overcoated again in "Black Cote".... the thickness of coatings amounts to some considerable depth. The interior metal has also been well and truly protected... with numerous coatings of fishoilene, primers and top coats of epoxy enamel. The cavities in the frame, subframe and sills have all been coated with fishoil.... using a tube with a fan end to spread the oil completely around the internal walls - aerosol cans were used to propel the oil into the cavities.... all drain ports were plugged temporarily to ensure that a generous film was applied - the plugs were removed weeks later and the excess oil drained out into open cans... this process was repeated many times over.
Further to this, additional drain ports were drilled into every conceivable sump which may have retained water.....
All openings under the floor between floor pan etc and frame were plugged and sealed from external entrance...
The factory drain ports in the sills were opened again - after GMH crushed them shut when spot welding the inner and outer sills....
There are many, many things to do if you want to preserve what you have in your vehicle, Ric - but the very first place I would stress to begin is to fit rubber plugs to the two holes in the stone tray - immediately in front of the radiator - those holes are there to allow access to the outrigger mount bolts..... they should be plugged up.... I lost my original sub-frame to this, crap washes down into the subframe and can't get out.... it continues to build and will eventually rust out the front corners of the frame.... add to this, make sure that you clear out the two tiny drain ports each end of the front subframe member - on FB's - they may not have been provided.... so, drill them.
Rubbish passes into that part of the frame and can't get out.. it won't run uphill over the cross-member mounts... and will rust out the sub frame..... trust me, this one I know all about.
you might like to drill two holes in the rear beaver panel support floors as well... water will build up in there.
The side wells in the rear should have two drain ports in each - make sure they are kept open..... along with the drain ports in each door.
The front footwell is a place where things can permanently go into hiding.... it is also a great place for rust to start... especially if the dog-leg corners of your windscreen aperture have rusted out (just above the door rubber).... water will run in through there and build up in the lower base of the sub-frame mount area... I drilled two 1/4" holes in the front of the body/frame mount there... just to ensure that any water would run out again.
I first realised there was an issue in 1973...after washing the car - I could hear water "sloshing" around when moving it....... I was amazed at how much water came out when I drilled those two little holes.. and then found the cause... it was the dog-leg behind the door rubber.
All fixed pretty much then and there - and have never had a leak since....
When I resprayed the left side of the vehicle - I found that the steel retainers which hold the door molding trim were rusted...
I fitted nylon ones and used stainless self-tappers to secure them into the doors.
If you have a sedan - there is every likelihood that the rear roof trim molding retainers have rusted through as well... I repaired the damaged window aperture on both sides where this trim fits onto and fitted nylon tubes into the holes... I then made up stainless retainers to hold the trim in place.
I am a strong advocate for butyl mastic - Sikaflex 221 is good, but a little too permanent - making removal of anything sealed with it a massive undertaking without doing damage... butyl mastic is very appropriate sealant - but has its quirks.
On all my door/fender trims, I sealed the tops of the stainless moldings with grey butyl mastic... troweled it on using a thin spatula and wiped off the excess... only the upper joint, not the lower one.. I left mine open at the bottom so that anything which did get in there could flow out.... you would have to look very closely to my door/body trim moldings to see the grey butyl mastic - but, it is there to stop the crud running down under these moldings and building up to create rust....
Ok, that should keep you going for a bit....
These dear old girls are well worth preserving - they are probably the worst model ever that the General has produced which has potential rust issues.... but, strip them down back to bare metal and correctly treat and seal them - and they will outlive you.. and probalby your grandchildren.....
It has been a quest, but I believe i have reached the point where I am confident my dear old bus is "safe"....
frats,
Rosco
Re: rosco EK modified sedan
Thanks Rosco,
This has given me plenty to do.
I will make a list and start next weekend, as I am still traveling in WA with work at present.
A fantastic look at preservation you have provided us Rosco.
Thanks for this.
Ric.
This has given me plenty to do.
I will make a list and start next weekend, as I am still traveling in WA with work at present.
A fantastic look at preservation you have provided us Rosco.
Thanks for this.
Ric.
Re: rosco EK modified sedan
Hi folk,
bump...... 2020... forgot all about this thread... duh! "old timer's" kicking in..
I have started another titled "Rosco's EK 225 manual"...
Let me know which one to keep - I won't leave both up, that's just selfish.
Do I pick up with this one and delete the new... or keep going with the new and delete this.
The good thing is - with the new thread, I no longer depend on Photobucket to store my pix... I have found a way to post them directly from my files..
Voting has started, closes Friday mid-night - open to all comments and follys... the forum has control of which one I keep going on...
frats,
Rosco
bump...... 2020... forgot all about this thread... duh! "old timer's" kicking in..
I have started another titled "Rosco's EK 225 manual"...
Let me know which one to keep - I won't leave both up, that's just selfish.
Do I pick up with this one and delete the new... or keep going with the new and delete this.
The good thing is - with the new thread, I no longer depend on Photobucket to store my pix... I have found a way to post them directly from my files..
Voting has started, closes Friday mid-night - open to all comments and follys... the forum has control of which one I keep going on...
frats,
Rosco
Re: rosco EK modified sedan
The new one please