painting karstens ek

[rosco]

Well done Karsten,
with a shine like that, I don't know who's smile would be the biggest - your's or the car - it looks great - another I'm looking forward to getting the guided tour over..................

well done Karsten - you're in like Flynn as well - enjoy the space you've got now to burn....

frats,
Rosco

[Craig]

Looks great

[karsten]

rb ,, yeah its &*#@ bionic blue,,, its like a current falcon colour so it could be on tunnas ive only seen it on xr6s up here but i think more people go for metalics ,,,but they seem to be heading back to the sixtys bright colours

rosco ,, yeah its geting there ive still heaps to go rubbers,, windows door locks ,baily channels ect ect

thanks craig im starting to forgive myself for putting &*#@ paint on cause it dont look half bad

cheers fellas

[karsten]

heres a bit more progress ,, spent yesterday fitting front and rear screens
man that job suxxxxxxxxxxx!!!!!!!!!!!! big time took me hours,,,

then today glued some door seals in and started on quarter glass asembley mate that rubber on them was baked on had to chip it like concreate jack hammer ,,,dam hard







im getting there but its slow as i am doing every thing on my own
but im starting to see the rewards

[Malcolm]

Mate,

Its coming along nicely. Nearly there, keep going.

[rosco]

She rain proof now Karsten.....
We've got two months yet - looks as if most are just about down to fitting the tidly bits...... they can take longer than the majors...............

I've spent my life doing stuff on my own - down side - you got no one else to blame when you either can't find something or stuff something up - it's a great discipline........

looking very sweet, Karsten - don't stop - I'm not.....

frats,
Rosco

[FCCOOL]

Yep as Rosco stated and as told to me by a spray painter. Solid colours do not need clear. It will only complicate things and cause problems.

The biggest being if you rub through the clear or buff thourgh you will get a line that no amount of polishing will remove and a patch of paint a slightly different shade.

Also as Rosco said, spray all the edges and tops of curves a few times before doing the whole panel as you have less chance of rubbing through.

a few painters have told me the same, but, you can get a deeper gloss with clear.
the day before my first son was born my old boss smashed his volvo into my car, i told him it had to be repaired imediately, he sent it to a panel shop. i insisted on the shop using the same method and products i used, he told me clear was a waste of time on solid colours, i still insisted on the clear but the bastard ignored me and repaired it with a different paint system and no clear.
the car had a glassy finish wich looked different to most light coloured solid colours bur were he did the repair it was less glassy, it looked like your average solid colour.
with that job i added clear to the last bit of blue left in the pot, probably about 200ml, then as i refilled the pot i just added straight clear till i had 5 coats on. in the last 2 pots i used 2k retarded thinner wich lets the final paint flow out flatter on the last coat saving some cutting.
I am a detailer so the car was buffed frequently, it was a family car and work car as well as my cruiser, i never had any buff throughs, i used cheap wattyl acrylic paint, the car was in the sun everyday for years with no signs of yellowing or paint cracking, it was always polished with cheap but professional polishes, no fancy wax.
in these pics the car isnt even clean, you can still tell the finish looks different to solid with no clear, usually these light colours dont reflect a very high gloss.

[rosco]

Hi FC Cool - looks clean to me - yes, I agree - lighter colours don't reflect with the same depth that mids or darks do - however, in low light - to me, they seem to come into their own.

I also believe what you have stated supports my feelings on clear with solids - they can be an absolute pain to spot match - I have played with clears both mixed in at 10% and also over-coated - I must admit, with my colour and paint (Standox acrylic) - it is almost impossible for me to pick any advantage.

I do, however, block down with 1200 before cutting - if the surface is older (and hard) I will even use 1500 (can gouge, if the paint is still soft) - from there, I find the finish to be comparable to anything clear coated/mixed without the hassle of having to match small spot repairs......

Your wagon looks very neat - if that isn't clean - please post some when it is.....

thanks for your input - much appreciated.

frats,
Rosco

[karsten]

fccool,,,, man ,,, i love your car,,,, its a credit to you ,,,awsome,,,,

i would love an fc ive a mate who has a perfect original one restord with all the nasco stuff,,,,,but i like em a bit custom like yours sweeeeet

[t950cat]

Hey Karsten
Love the colour,what did you do to the existing paintwork to prepare it for the new respray.did you sandblast or just rub it back or paintsripper?
well done
Tony

[karsten]

yeah tony i did sand blast doors boot bonnet guards and the plennem chamber grill ect,,,,, striped body with orbital sander back to bare metal then etch primmer,,, primer filler,,,, a few coats white,,, and then many coats of blue ,,, did lots of sanding inbetween coats then cut paint with 1200,, and just hand polished for now and will buff when its all togeather as im gonna have a few touch ups from reasembly,,,, and its acrylic paint in &*#@ bionic blue think i mite change my forum handle to,,,,

the bionic ek

[rosco]

Karsten,
read your comments on Malcolm's finish - your's will come up a treat if you leave it until the thinners have had plenty of chance to get out - I like to leave mine months - most people I know get a bit impatient with the semi gloss acrylic comes off the gun as - unless you thin it out and keep the surface very wet in the final few coats.

The top coat or two of acrylic will harden fairly quickly - the others will take longer. Until they "pull down", there is little point in getting that "mirror" finish - it will fall over again as the coats underneath settle down..... my suggestion - assemble, good buff for Yamba, final block and buff in a few months......but be careful - those coats underneath will not be as "tough" as the top ones which take a bit of getting through.....

It's a control thing - once you break through the harder top coats - using the same pressure, you can blast your way very quickly through the softer ones.

I like your idea of waiting until all is re-assembled before final buff - and yes, may save you some grief with scratches - no matter how careful we are........ things drop, get dropped, fall over....... good policy..

You probably know all this stuff - but for anyone interested who is watching - may give them some background to explain why this system is not a one shot and buff - like I believe we have seen on Malcolm's.....

frats,
Rosco

ps - have been busy - would have thrown this up when you made comment on that great finish Malcolm has.....

[thropzed]

Karsten, Be careful on final buff, That you don't have excess polish on the bonnet area as it will fly down the plenum chamber grill and you can't get it out. Mine still has polish from the beaters that painted it 7 years ago!!
Cheers Theo Z...................

[karsten]

so my car my passed rego today register it tomorrow

still needs interior done which its booked in toowoomba it two weeks and they said it would take two weeks to do it all so when where the nationals it will be close shave

cant wait to go for a spin been nearly 3 years since we cruzed it

its acctualy been hurting for past few weeks not to be able to leave the drive ,,,, like a lolly you your not allowed to eat

[rosco]

Good news Karsten,
that's a biggie over and out of the way..........

Very soon you are going to be able to take as many lollies out of the bag as you want - don't bite on the hard ones.........

frats,
Rosco

ps looking forward to hearing what the popping was - many possibilities - you know the drill - process of elimination........don't assume anything - check!

frats,
Rosco