fbekholden.com

I was surprised you painted the outside of the lens John. I’ve only seen the inside painted. Whatever works is good.
Cheers
Clay


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Hi Clay, I wasn’t sure myself so I asked the guy at the paint shop who’s been in the game a long time. He said it didn’t really matter which side so I did the outside as it seemed a bit easier. Would you do the inside to protect the paint a bit more?
Cheers, John

The paint I used was matte so yes. Also to maintain exterior appearance.


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I was just poking my head around under the bonnet before going to work tonight and noticed this at the front end...


...and this at the rear.


I’m guessing the rear nut needs a bit more torque. With the front though, should the bolt be a stud and the missing one have a bolt? What’s the deal with washers for the studs/bolts as there aren’t any on these three fasteners.
Lotsa questions today, thanks everyone.
John


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yes to all your questions, however a bolt and some washers will suffice if you arent too concerned with originality ....

might need some easy outs on the exhaust bolts :S

Ta Blacky. Hopefully the bolt will come out pretty easy, gpi


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Tested the new water temperature sender just out of interest. I didn’t have a thermometer but it made contact just moments before boiling, so somewhere in the high 90’s.


The old one had the top snapped off.



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You must have a hot grey motor John if it is blowing off manifold bolts and temp sensor's!

In the Shed wrote: Mon Jan 29, 2018 11:25 pm You must have a hot grey motor John if it is blowing off manifold bolts and temp sensor's!

Haha. I think you’re right, mate. All that horse power has also blown the oil pressure switch maybe as it’s not working. I’ll need to rip that out and have a look. I shorted the switch lead to earth and the gauge light came on so looks like a switch issue.

Next job, the silent snail. Thought it may be an easy fix at first when I noticed the two leads went to the same terminal


Corrected that but still no noise


Power straight from the battery didn’t work either, not even a click, so I pulled her apart and though pretty clean inside, the contacts were stuck together. I had to wind the adjuster right out to separate the contacts and clean them, marking and counting the number of turns so I could get it back the same.


Just sitting the diaphragm on the coils, I got a rattle and buzz when powered up - yay!
The paper gasket was damaged when disassembling, so I made one up from a roll of gasket paper I knew I had somewhere in the shed. I think I bought that when I had the HX Kingswood back in the 80’s. I made up a punch from some 7/32” rod I had laying around and sharpened it on the bench grinder - worked a treat.


Put it all back together and it just “clicked” when powered up. I guessed that the diaphragm “plunger” might not be opening the contact. I wound in the adjuster a half turn and, you beauty, I gotta horn!
I installed it but got no sound when pressing the steering wheel. I measured 12v at the horn, so looks like the switch isn’t earthing. I took the wheel cap off and found this


I couldn’t get the broken insulator out and the brass/copper contactor was also stuck, so off with the wheel. I didn’t have a puller so tried the agricultural “hit with a mallet and pull” routine - a bit difficult when there’s only one of you and I had no luck. Rather than wait for help to arrive, I whipped up a puller using scrap 25mm square tube, 2 x 5/16 unc screws and a 1/2” unf bolt and nut. I used a punch to jam the nut in the tube so it wouldn’t spin.
This worked fine and I got the other broken bits out

That c-clip above fell out and not sure where from but I’ll check the manuals before I get a new plunger and put it all back. I earthed the horn ring out and the horn worked.
Sorry if this is long and boring but thought it might be useful for someone down the track.

Cheers,
John


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Far from boring John. I’ve played around with the switches a plenty, but never pulled an actual horn apart. I’ve collected a few, and you’ve inspired me to have a play. I suppose gasket paper can still be obtained although I may have some in my kit from my HX panel van days, yes back in the 80s. Why did I ever sell that? Oh that’s right, to make room for Errol, my 62 EK!
Cheers
Clay


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After being advised by Rob (Ardiesse) on another thread that I had the wrong ignition coil, I went and got the right one - Bosch SU12.

I googled the number of the old coil and, sure enough, it was a red motor coil - goodonya’ Rob. It even had written on the bottom of the coil that it’s to be used with a resistor.


I didn’t like having the coil mounted on the brake and clutch lines and, keeping in mind I hope to get the original motor back in one day with the correct side plate and bracket, I made up a temporary bracket and mounted it using the lower bolts on the brake and clutch master cylinders. The licensing guys might prefer this too.


I sliced up and welded some 30mm galv. square tube to use for the bracket.
Both wire terminals were only hanging on by a strand or two and, as I had to lengthen them for the new position, I remade them with solder and new terminals. I’ve kept the original terminals for when the original motor goes back in. Looks a bit neater and out of the way now.


And then, with a big yank on the choke and a turn of the key, she started first time


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Errol62 wrote:Far from boring John. I’ve played around with the switches a plenty, but never pulled an actual horn apart. I’ve collected a few, and you’ve inspired me to have a play. I suppose gasket paper can still be obtained although I may have some in my kit from my HX panel van days, yes back in the 80s. Why did I ever sell that? Oh that’s right, to make room for Errol, my 62 EK!
Cheers
Clay


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Was that a Sandman shaggin’ wagon, Clay? Mine was a sedan with Statesman Caprice front grille and twin headlights, with the flexible Chevy bonnet ornament. Pretty flash, hey

Horns are pretty simple and as long as the coils and resistor are still intact, a good clean and some fine emery on the contacts should do it. Resistors can be brought and replaced but the coils would have to be sourced from another unit, unless you’re REALLY keen and rewind it. They function very similar to a relay or solenoid. Out of interest, I measured the resistor at 16 ohms.
Cheers,
John


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Just a boring old Westinghouse white tradie van with 202, 3 on the tree, bench seat, side windows and sun visor. Box got replaced by a brand new Borg Warner 5 speed. Mechanical engineer at work told me this was only rated for the 173 and would not stand up to duty behind my 202. He was right. Known as the Phillipino box they were also fitted behind 3.3 litre XE falcons and 2.6 litre sigmas but were soon deleted I believe. Apologies for the ramble.


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