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Cool as Rob
16.666667 underdrive?!

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17% overdriven.

I've got a wee-little twin vee-belt pulley here (somewhere ) that is only about 4" diameter. Putting that on the huffer snout would liven it up

Cheers,
Harv

That might be too much for my ticker Harv.

Might need to look into the twin groove idler though if you can have a search.

Harv wrote: Sat Jul 25, 2020 6:42 am 17% overdriven.

I've got a wee-little twin vee-belt pulley here (somewhere ) that is only about 4" diameter. Putting that on the huffer snout would liven it up

Cheers,
Harv

So yesterday was a big day.
Did the final touches to fuel lines / radiator install etc etc and got the 2 inch SU primed for a start.
Cranked and cranked and cracked but it just wouldn't fart so got some fart in a can and gave that a try - it kicked which made me smile but would not catch so something wrong with the carb for sure - not knowing a thing about SU's I thought why not swap the SU for the smaller one I started with and see if that fired.

Sure enough if roared to life after a few cranks and after a lot of twiddling I got it to maintain an idle of sorts and this is where we ran into the next set of issues.

Belt tracking or lack of made one belt catch and flick over the other before I noticed any issue - thankfully the only damage was a couple of stretch belts but after many re-sets and playing around with the tensioner/Iddler I realised this just isn't going to work as it is.
The riddler pulley sit at the end of a spacer bolted into the idler arm and whats happening is there is a little flex or movement in that system that puts the riddler pulley ever so slightly out of square with the blower alley and makes the inner belt track over to the outer belt as soon as it's fired up.
So back to the drawing board we are getting an idler arm of a much thicker material made up the will give a more solid fix to the blower snout and mean we need a much shorter spacer from pulley to idler arm and hopefully remove that flex in that system - as mentioned above we might also source a dual track idler pulley to give even more belt separation.

In the meantime I might get this SU to the tuner and see if he can see where the issue is as I'd prefer to run the 2" although the 1-3/4 does give me a choke option as cold starts might be a problem.

Oh and I also have to cut the bonnet - it touches on the radiator cap by about 2mm but the rad clearances are great so just going to cut bonnet instead.

A wee tappy tap?


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Errol62 wrote:A wee tappy tap?


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Yep - just a little but it all fits in really nice now so it will be worth it


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Errol62 wrote:I’ve got a few adjuster brackets and rods I can send if needed


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Harv struck out mate if you have a bracket and rod would be awesome thanks - pm me


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FJWALLY wrote: Fri Jul 24, 2020 7:32 amAnyone have a spare adjuster part for the accelerator linkage they will part with - goes on end of here

Checked the shed - no adjuster linkage.

Did find this though


Cheers,
Harv

Just pm me postage details. Yours gratis.

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Errol62 wrote:Just pm me postage details. Yours gratis.

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Legend tks


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Bonnet pins would be period correct?

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Errol62 wrote: Sun Jul 26, 2020 11:48 pmBonnet pins would be period correct?

Yes, though he would need to be careful. NCOP doesn't prohibit protruding-type bonnet pins for older vehicles, and does not require engineering:

4.2.1 General
For vehicles manufactured prior to 1 July 1988 there are no specific requirements for items such as bonnet pins and mascots. However fixtures that increase the risk of injury to other motorists or pedestrians are deemed to be dangerous protrusions and must not be used. For vehicles manufactured on or after 1 July 1988, ADR 42/-- specifically prohibits external or internal protrusions that are not technically essential and are likely to increase the risk of bodily injury to any person.
4.2.2 Bonnet Pins
Bonnet pins that protrude through the bonnet must not be used. Bonnet securing devices that are flush with the contours of the bonnet may be used.

However, it is marginal in the Victorian VSI8 sheets. For bonnet pins they paraphrase the above without the pre-1988 clause, and are much more open to interpretation. Effectively, any "design, construction and/or condition and the manner in which it is fixed is likely to create the risk of bodily injury" is prohibited, with the VSI mentioning bonnet pins.

Cheers,
Harv

Errol62 wrote:Bonnet pins would be period correct?

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maybe but I can make a little “adjustment that only the trained eye would see - nothing quite so drastic required


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Harv wrote:

FJWALLY wrote: Fri Jul 24, 2020 7:32 amAnyone have a spare adjuster part for the accelerator linkage they will part with - goes on end of here

Checked the shed - no adjuster linkage.

Did find this though

Wray heart attack pulley.jpg

Cheers,
Harv

Going to try a different belt type SPZ high performance wedge that should have more rigidity and less flex and see if that helps as the gates ones are extremely flexible cold so once hot I think were contributing to the wandering - probably need a spring loaded tensioner for that type of belt - will update once I try them out.
Going one size longer at 1270mm as the 1255 was a push to get on


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