fbekholden.com

Dodgy seal on the cup was my first bet John. Changed them twice to no avail. Dropped the offending cylinder to brake man this am. There is actually a visible gap between casting and insert. Hopefully a hard pedal tonight.


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He said he’d do it today when I dropped it off so I naturally turned up after work. The sleeve has been removed ready for re-gluing. You can’t rush these things I suppose. He won’t be winning any customer service awards from me that’s for sure.


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Errol62 wrote:He said he’d do it today when I dropped it off so I naturally turned up after work. The sleeve has been removed ready for re-gluing. You can’t rush these things I suppose. He won’t be winning any customer service awards from me that’s for sure.


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What’s caused the visible gap, Clay? Is it a bad fit, distortion, or just not enough glue?
Hopefully it’s all good tomorrow


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Today I observed that the sleeve fits in the bored out cylinder with maybe one thou clearance so there needs to be adequate glue to seal the assembly so the pressurised fluid can’t find a path to atmosphere from the tube port, behind the sleeve. I hope this makes sense.


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Errol62 wrote:Today I observed that the sleeve fits in the bored out cylinder with maybe one thou clearance so there needs to be adequate glue to seal the assembly so the pressurised fluid can’t find a path to atmosphere from the tube port, behind the sleeve. I hope this makes sense.


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Yep


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The lesson is to use someone recommended by a trusted source. The fault may be considered a one off and rectified at no additional cost (excluding my precious time). The guys are civil and affable enough. Timeliness and communication are undoubtably poor.


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Clay I thought the sleeves would have been a press fit and then honed to size after fitting this would reduce the gap and glue would be holding the sleeve not filling a gap.

I hope what ever he is using to glue it doesn't break down from contact with the brake fluid.

I've said before that I haven't played with drum brakes for years so maybe I am off the mark here just my thoughts.

Neil

Thought the same Neil. On reflection I realise that the original castings are relatively thin and brittle. An interference fit might potentially crack the outer cylinder. I wonder about the stability of the glue as well, brake fluid being fairly reactive.


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Errol62 wrote: Thu Jun 07, 2018 11:52 am Thought the same Neil. On reflection I realise that the original castings are relatively thin and brittle. An interference fit might potentially crack the outer cylinder. I wonder about the stability of the glue as well, brake fluid being fairly reactive.

From the South Glenelg brake mob website:
"Cylinders are bored in a precision jig using a 6 point adjustable cutter. Sleeves are predominantly press fitted which ensures the hydraulic sealant used is only a secondary precaution. Some brake remanufacturers use the ‘clearance fit’ method, which certainly is faster and easier, but experience has proven it not to be as reliable. We often see resleeving done by this method and in many cases the cylinders have piston to bore clearances in excess of critical factory tolerances, which causes leaks and short service life...
Cylinders and sleeves are put through another cleaning process, and then are pressed in on our hydraulic press in one continuous stroke. Cylinders are cured for 30 minutes at 100°C...
Next the cylinder port holes are drilled. Compensating type master cylinders have the compensating hole drilled in them with a 0.7mm drill. Following drilling, cylinders are honed and all holes deburred. Honing is important firstly to ensure all holes are deburred so seals are not clipped and to give the bore a surface that will retain brake fluid for lubrication. Too fine a finish and the seals will have trouble sealing, and too coarse a finish the seals will wear prematurely."

and some machinist views here:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/ge ... er-178029/

Cheers,
Harv

You’re more than just a technical wiz Harv. Must say I’m surprised they have a web site as they are pretty old school (in a good way). Special primer and Loctite 680 then cured in the oven at 100C for 30 minutes as stated.


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Really grasping at straws nowStill doing it. Changing the rubbers again


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Same resultNot sure if it is visible in the photo but there is a faint axial score line running the length of the sleeve.


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The bore measured 0.995 but I did measure it on the backing plate with the shoes still installed. I would say it is 1”.

Split some fire wood.... that helped.
Glass of Shiraz... hmm.

That score line, must be the seam, has to be the problem. They reused the same sleeve. It must be something to do with the bore. Maybe I should have had a hard look at it when I picked it up.

The funny thing is I’m kinda getting to like the guys, despite their apparent hit and miss, miss approach.


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So took it back on Friday. He is going to test it. I’m confident it’ll be working Tuesday night after the public holiday.

Few distractions mean time. Split some more wood. About 4 tonne. Very therapeutic although I cheated a bit.


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I’m with you Clay in that splitting wood’s therapeutic.
I’m off to the show ‘n’ shine now, so I can take a spanner and screwdriver and see if I can’t find you a brake cylinder ......


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