Cheers for the tip!!
All of the people that recognise my car think that I have crashed it haha. It sure does need some TLC but is getting more and more enjoyable to drive each day I grow older
"(AUST)Mod's Turbo FB"
Hi Andrew,
haven't had a peek at your thread for a little while - sorry.......
Wheels look great to me - for your submarine............ have to do a bit of a trawl back and bone up on where you come from............
keep going - we can't paint over here in a shed - too cold, too humid and just too wrong......
One suggestion though - plenty of bright light - to see the reflection of the paint as you lay it down - I think this is how I get my "feel" for speed, distance and pattern........... still learning - hope I always will.....
frats,
Rosco
haven't had a peek at your thread for a little while - sorry.......
Wheels look great to me - for your submarine............ have to do a bit of a trawl back and bone up on where you come from............
keep going - we can't paint over here in a shed - too cold, too humid and just too wrong......
One suggestion though - plenty of bright light - to see the reflection of the paint as you lay it down - I think this is how I get my "feel" for speed, distance and pattern........... still learning - hope I always will.....
frats,
Rosco
Cheers Rosco!!
Last time we painted in the shed, we used a pair of 500w Halogen Floor Lights to illuminate the room above the normal 2 4ft fluoro light' abilities. I think I will get a fair few more this time to raise the temperature and to give me the best possible conditions for seeing how the paint is being laid down. Can anyone tell me what a good temperature is for painting Acrylic? I am also interested in tips on how I can best go about attempting to repair sections of the paint, instead of whole panels if it is even possible.
Thanks for all of the support to date
Andrew.
PS. The Egyptian Tan EK is finally getting some TLC in the form of a VH44 booster this weekend. Geez that car is fun to drive, it just never gets any attention, only driving action
Last time we painted in the shed, we used a pair of 500w Halogen Floor Lights to illuminate the room above the normal 2 4ft fluoro light' abilities. I think I will get a fair few more this time to raise the temperature and to give me the best possible conditions for seeing how the paint is being laid down. Can anyone tell me what a good temperature is for painting Acrylic? I am also interested in tips on how I can best go about attempting to repair sections of the paint, instead of whole panels if it is even possible.
Thanks for all of the support to date
Andrew.
PS. The Egyptian Tan EK is finally getting some TLC in the form of a VH44 booster this weekend. Geez that car is fun to drive, it just never gets any attention, only driving action
Craig wrote: Andrew you have a red so I wouldn't race it
Hi Andrew,
just about to shut down for the night but................go get a cuppa or something whilst I have a bit of a type......won't be too long, though.
As you are aware, I really only feel that I can contribute when it comes to acrylic....... love the stuff.....
I think it's important to state that it's not only temperature which will affect how you lay your paint - humidity has a lot to do with it as well...........
I could raise the temperature here to above 20 deg C, but still get an awful finish - it's the humidity which will get trapped in the paint - sometimes it doesn't come out and you will see "blisters" one day when it's humid or "dimples" the next when it's dry................
If you want to spray - I would suggest getting your shed up to temperature and relatively dry "air" well before you go ahead........
There will be evaporating thinners so please do not be tempted to run one of those flame blowers at any time you have paint open to the air....... especially in a confined space...............
Temperature - I like to spray at around 25 deg C - I feel it has given me my best results so far............. but as mentioned, not just temperature - you can get a hydrometer fairly cheaply - I have one in my garage where I work - alongside the thermometer -
I do not spray acrylic above 60% relative humidity - I prefer 50%.........
When it comes to thinners - I adjust both the "heat" of the thinner and the amount of it in the mix accordingly - but this is getting a bit serious - most just go with the 2 paint to 3 thinners and use general purpose...........
I have been given a guide as to when to change them ....... but you may find it a little perplexing.......
If it is hot and dry - I will use what is called a "slow" thinner - that is doesn't "flash" before it hits the panel.............I have had many sessions of doing what you have spent ages on - and you fully understand how one becomes a little hesitant to "stuff" the next coat up.......
I used to "dab" at it - and not go in fully determined ............. with the result that I would "dust" a lot of my work - dry paint - no matter how hard you try, it won't come to a full gloss if it's not put on at least a little "wet"...........and - don't be tempted to try and fix it by just going over and over - if you dust the finish, sometimes it's better to leave it, block back and come back in another day......... don't want to frighten you Andrew - but you must have a bit of "cockyness" when you start to lay it down.......
The reason I like a fair bit of light, is for identifying when what I'm putting on is "wet" but not about to run or sag................... this I control mainly with both the speed of the pass and the distance from the panel........ you won't know how it's going to go until you make that first pass - and for this reason, I fully suggest trying a test panel - old door, fridge something flattish where you can see how your mix, the temp and humidity and what speed, distance are going to be on your vehicle............. once you have this and are comfortable with your test panel - it's time to "go"....... don't twaddle - just do it - now where have I heard that expression..........
If you want my understanding of using different thinners.......... and this is not a must read, but you may find interesting.......
If it's cooler and a little more humid - I want the paint to go off a bit quicker than a general purpose - none of this is critical, Andrew.......
By using a "hotter" thinner in cooler/damper conditions - it helps a little to prevent "runs" .......... I am now fast coming to terms with keeping the pass "wet" - it seems to bring up a deeper gloss and of course much less work in compounding..........
Now the next chapter will have to wait - and I'll put it up as repairs........
always, it is better to strip or block back and spray large - but you can also get away in acrylic with "touch ups" - some will always find them - I have a bad habit of telling everyone where mine are - I can't make them invisible, but get pretty close - until I fess up.....................we'll cover that later.......... I have to go.....
Hope some of this helps.............. and as always - others, please feel most welcome to add/debate/suggest alternatives..............
I have also stated my experience is only related to solids......... I have precious little experience with "flakes" or "pearls"...............
frats,
Rosco
just about to shut down for the night but................go get a cuppa or something whilst I have a bit of a type......won't be too long, though.
As you are aware, I really only feel that I can contribute when it comes to acrylic....... love the stuff.....
I think it's important to state that it's not only temperature which will affect how you lay your paint - humidity has a lot to do with it as well...........
I could raise the temperature here to above 20 deg C, but still get an awful finish - it's the humidity which will get trapped in the paint - sometimes it doesn't come out and you will see "blisters" one day when it's humid or "dimples" the next when it's dry................
If you want to spray - I would suggest getting your shed up to temperature and relatively dry "air" well before you go ahead........
There will be evaporating thinners so please do not be tempted to run one of those flame blowers at any time you have paint open to the air....... especially in a confined space...............
Temperature - I like to spray at around 25 deg C - I feel it has given me my best results so far............. but as mentioned, not just temperature - you can get a hydrometer fairly cheaply - I have one in my garage where I work - alongside the thermometer -
I do not spray acrylic above 60% relative humidity - I prefer 50%.........
When it comes to thinners - I adjust both the "heat" of the thinner and the amount of it in the mix accordingly - but this is getting a bit serious - most just go with the 2 paint to 3 thinners and use general purpose...........
I have been given a guide as to when to change them ....... but you may find it a little perplexing.......
If it is hot and dry - I will use what is called a "slow" thinner - that is doesn't "flash" before it hits the panel.............I have had many sessions of doing what you have spent ages on - and you fully understand how one becomes a little hesitant to "stuff" the next coat up.......
I used to "dab" at it - and not go in fully determined ............. with the result that I would "dust" a lot of my work - dry paint - no matter how hard you try, it won't come to a full gloss if it's not put on at least a little "wet"...........and - don't be tempted to try and fix it by just going over and over - if you dust the finish, sometimes it's better to leave it, block back and come back in another day......... don't want to frighten you Andrew - but you must have a bit of "cockyness" when you start to lay it down.......
The reason I like a fair bit of light, is for identifying when what I'm putting on is "wet" but not about to run or sag................... this I control mainly with both the speed of the pass and the distance from the panel........ you won't know how it's going to go until you make that first pass - and for this reason, I fully suggest trying a test panel - old door, fridge something flattish where you can see how your mix, the temp and humidity and what speed, distance are going to be on your vehicle............. once you have this and are comfortable with your test panel - it's time to "go"....... don't twaddle - just do it - now where have I heard that expression..........
If you want my understanding of using different thinners.......... and this is not a must read, but you may find interesting.......
If it's cooler and a little more humid - I want the paint to go off a bit quicker than a general purpose - none of this is critical, Andrew.......
By using a "hotter" thinner in cooler/damper conditions - it helps a little to prevent "runs" .......... I am now fast coming to terms with keeping the pass "wet" - it seems to bring up a deeper gloss and of course much less work in compounding..........
Now the next chapter will have to wait - and I'll put it up as repairs........
always, it is better to strip or block back and spray large - but you can also get away in acrylic with "touch ups" - some will always find them - I have a bad habit of telling everyone where mine are - I can't make them invisible, but get pretty close - until I fess up.....................we'll cover that later.......... I have to go.....
Hope some of this helps.............. and as always - others, please feel most welcome to add/debate/suggest alternatives..............
I have also stated my experience is only related to solids......... I have precious little experience with "flakes" or "pearls"...............
frats,
Rosco
-
mrs ratbox