fbekholden.com

Sorry for the tardy reply... couldn't find where I had stored these - they are how my FB was done:
Cheers,
Harv

Mounted mine forward of the steering box - as long as you get nicely bent up lines done they look perfectly fine in there - if it was a show car or a rod I'd go under the guard but with heaps of space under the hood thats the best place for it I think.

Agreed Wally

Thanks Harv
That is entertaining reading. I hadn’t considered mounting east west. It’s done now.
Cheers
Clay


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good progress there Clay,
Would be good to see some pics of the rear brakes in particular how the handbrake cable connects to operate the brake shoes. My handbrake cable has let go at the wheel end so need to fix that one day. In the meantime I carry a block of wood as a wheel chock!
Stephen

You can get repro cables for $110 Stephen. Handbrake is a must for safety and fun!!They are pretty simple. If it has let go then either the cable has severed or the crimped ball has worked loose. The cable can be replaced without removing the shoes, just a bit fiddly.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

These are all the relevant photos I have of the handbrake set up


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi Clay
Love what your doing here mate just trying to get it back on the road, my battery will be going into/under the tray trying to keep engine bay as tidy as I can.

I had the same setup in my FC Sedan when I first put the HR disc brakes on the front (many mods ago) not really knowing what I was doing at the time, it made the rear drum brakes pretty harsh and I think I was told I should have put a proportioning valve in, you probably know all this stuff but just wondering if you are going to have to do this or doesn't it matter with drum brakes on all corners.

I haven't messed around with drum brakes since just after I bought my FC Sedan in 1996, so reason for the questions, I'm sure this has been discussed before.
Regards
Neil

Hi Neil
The issue you mention only relates to putting discs on the front. Proportioning valve is one fix. Fitting matching rear cylinders from the hr system is another, as is boosting only the front but this works best with a dual circuit set up using a non booster master from hq or similar.

I am focusing on getting it drivable. It is very sound structurally other than around the fuel tank, which I have a cut for. Thanks for the kind comments.

I finally had a proper look and found my door handle remover tool and took the door trims off. Inside the doors although full of fine dust feels free of rust. I’ve never owned such a good bodied early Holden. Pretty confident that the 63,000 miles on the odometer is all it has done.

Cheers
Clay


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Clay
Thanks for clarifying that mate as I said I haven't messed with drums or combinations for years.

And I have to say you are really lucky getting such a good body, on your ute , even though a couple of the ute guys over here have told me they started with worse then mine I still had a lot of stuff to cut out and repair.

Keep going mate love to see this on the road for you.

Neil

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Clay,
Yep I'd better get my handbrake sorted.

Stephen

I found that the top cable wheel pin had bent over at the subframe mount. Straightened it up. Have to roll the mug out to the carport and stitch the support to the sub frame to reinforce and stop it reoccurring.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Errol62 wrote:I found that the top cable wheel pin had bent over at the subframe mount.

Too many hand brakeys, do ya’ reckon Clay?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Probably John and more to come so needs to be strong.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just got to bleed and set up vacuum


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk