fbekholden.com

Terry, i was thinking it wouldn't really get too hot, thanks for confirming it . did you get my PM?
about the only heavy load situations it'll get into will be towing my bondy van and its not real heavy so nornal paint will do the trick .cheers, luke.

Yep, got your PM Luke.

Your parcel should have gone today but the FEMALE member of the household , (Theresa) who shall remain nameless, ( Theresa ) seems to have forgotten to take it with her ( Theresa ) to the post office this morning on her ( Theresa's ) way to work and also on her ( Theresa's ) way back to work from lunch ( Theresa ).

I'll have to put the parcel in this unamed person's ( Theresa's ) handbag tomorrow morning and hope that this person ( Theresa ) can remember to take it with her ( Theresa ) in the morning to work with her ( Theresa )



Sorry about ( Theresa's ) the delay in posting the parcel .

my70wg wrote:when i first put my gilmers on they made almost no noise....so all we done was tight up the belt.....now it screams

aidan...

run straight cut gears, they are going into my current engine I'm building for the "project" car

no worries terry, i'll forgive the "minister of war and finance" you'll probably have to take a laptop out to your "dog box" so you can keep in touch once "she who shall remain nameless (Theresa)" reads your post. lol
cheers, luke.

Bump for you too Luke..... must be time for an update?

yeah sorry gaz, been sorting out my neighbors f100, lots of rust to fix then a coat of paint for him then a new big compressor for me
about the only thing i've got done is the diff is finished an back in (well kind of, the front spring bolts won't go all the way in. i think they're binding on the nolathane bushes with the crush tubes so they'll have to come back out and fix that )
sorry to hear about you having to run for the border garry, i suppose mexico isn't that bad i'm sure things will work out for you.
cheers, luke.

hi everyone,
i got the diff and my rebuild ute springs finished up finally, looks good (well to me it does, not that anyones ever going to see it )


then installed with my 2" lowering blocks


finally got down in altitude a bit looks higher in the front now but measurements say its level, but when i get my hq stubs and p76 rotors organised that'll sort that
i'm now halfway through fitting the b pillar seatbelt mounts so i don't have the ugly bolt showing from the outside of the car (i really hate that look )
well, i'd better get off here and back to the shed
cheers, luke.

Looks all good luke
i thought you were saying how much you liked that seat belt bolt look
the other day at my house

well, with rain pissing down, and not having a full size workshop to play in big stuff like spraying is on hold. so...... i fitted up my front seat for fittment of my gear lever! i have bent it up myself so i could clear the seat but instead of cutting out a hole in the seat i did this.


which has given JUUUST enough roof for the shifter.

and the finished product. it still leaves enough clearance to move the seat backwards and forwards the entire track length (i wouldn't like to be centre passenger with the seat all the way forward though

hopefully the rain will piss off so i can get back to bodywork (i'm about a fortnight away from colour )
cheers, luke

Hey matches, you probably already know this, so forgive me, but you'll have to get an engineer to pass those seat mounts. They look solid though!
Just having a look at a few posts back, you say that you are running a 3.36 diff and the car will be your daily. Are you going to do a lot of highway driving? If so, you might want to use a 3.08 instead. A warm 186 should turn a 3.08 diff no probs, although it won't be as quick off the mark as it would be with a 3.36. If you're going to be mostly driving in traffic, the 3.36 will work well.

Be careful with the shifter as the weight of two people on the seat may push down on it. Have you sat in the seat now its raised? Steering wheel to leg may now be a lot less of a gap..

styg, yep the mounts are solid 100x50mm mild steel (so my engineer better not tell me he wants crush tubes
i am going to be running higher profile tyres (hopefully on 14 or 15" wheels) but the main reason for the smaller diff is i have an old bondwood van i'm going to be towing a fair bit (every chance i get ) so i would rather the pulling power rather than top end speed.
DR, thanks for the idea, i have sat in there with kimmy, but if my brother got in the front it could be another story (he's a big bugger )lol
i'm running a 13 1/2 " banjo string wheel so i can get in under the wheel without any drama (if i had the original in it i'd be in trouble)
cheers, luke.

matches wrote:but the main reason for the smaller diff is i have an old bondwood van i'm going to be towing a fair bit (every chance i get ) so i would rather the pulling power rather than top end speed.

Yep, the 3.36 would be better for towing. As you want to do alot of towing, you might want to swap the 30/70 cam for a towing cam (20/60 or thereabouts), if finances allow it.

if seat height was an issue it looks like you could still take a little out of the base of the shift or if yor confident with yor welding or got someone that can you could weld yor bent stick directly to the base
i had simular blocks under the front brackets of the seat to lay the backrest part of the seat back a little the engineer wasn't concerned with it and mine were made of wood i have seen some in HR's and H/KTG's and they looked to be factory as they were all the same made out of plastic or nylon

I agree with RB, weld the shaft onto the shifter a bit lower, I also would be looking into dropping the gearbox down a bit under the car, just needs more clearance , Trev .