Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

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Harv
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Harv »

Errol62 wrote: Thu May 10, 2018 9:40 pmHang on NOT suitable for automotive use wtf?!
Enamel paints are a generic term... they have a wide variety of both solvents and colour components. Could be that the solvent used is compatable with petrol/oil, and that the paint will wash off if spills occur. Could also be that the paint is not suited for higher engine bay/brake temperatures.

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Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Cheers Harv,
wouldn't expect much more for the price hey. I will use it on interior and non critical applications and see how it goes.
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Harv
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Harv »

Can't be too bad. I used Rustguard rattlecan satin black for all my fiddly bits. The stuff is expensive, and despite being an epoxy enamel it does not dry very hard at all. Easy to chip/scratch, even after primer + 3 topcoats. I used Metalshield black from a can (havent tried rattlecan) for my floors. It dries hard, like old duco.

Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Harv
Did you use the metal shield straight on the clean floor, no primer or rust converter?

I was thinking about painting on ranex rust converter then just fish oiling.


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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Rear brakes all done bar bleeding. Happy with the handbrake with all parts replaced from handle to rear cable and brackets with various bits from my stash. ImageRplacing the handle required me to remove the dash cluster, which I need to do to fit indicator tell tales. Also the ignition and light switches. A few broken globes to replace and dodgy indicator wiring.

Replacing the beat up old shocks with donors from old EK 215 god rest her. ImageMonroe has riders that haven’t done much duty. Bit slack they didn’t get the usual rattle can reco.


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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Image
Next job repackaged front hubs before fitting up the brakes.

I haven’t been able to get much time on this lately. I’ll be glad to get the brakes finished so I can move on to getting the motor properly sorted.


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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Mustn’t forget to check the diff oil level and grease the front end. The outer tie rod end grease retainers are all but non existent so I may have to pop them. Possibly replace. I haven’t been able to check out the suspension and steering play really.


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59wagon
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by 59wagon »

Good job, Clay. Slowly but surely


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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Driver side front outer wheel bearing is nfg (not fit for galvanising). The roller faces are pitted. Inside race and cones appear fine. Between the backing plate and seal was full of dirt and grass seed husks, evidence of a life of Wimmera paddock work.

I am thinking of grabbing an outer from one of my spare front ends considering all else is in good shape. Passenger side appears to be fine. The older style felt seals look good.

I recall replacing cones previously on the bench with hammer and drift with no issues. Long time ago now.


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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Gave the dash a clean and polish and fitted indicator telltale holdersImage
I decided to unravel front indicator circuitry out of another harness and add in to the existing rather than swap a whole loom. The rear indicator wires are included in the original loom although been butchered at the rear due in part to previous trailer plug instal.


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Harv
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Harv »

Errol62 wrote: Sat May 19, 2018 9:00 am Harv
Did you use the metal shield straight on the clean floor, no primer or rust converter?

I was thinking about painting on ranex rust converter then just fish oiling.
Ranex, wipe excess with wet rag, metalshield.
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Thanks Harv
So wipe excess ranex straight after application?


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Harv
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Harv »

I tend to slop the Ranex on, then leave it for an hour. Its a chemical reaction (turns iron oxide into iron phosphate), so any excess wont "dry"... it just stays tacky. If you put it on nice, bright steel it doesn't do too much either. After an hour, I give it a rinse off then air dry. If its hard to rinse (like a floor pan), then a sloppy-wet rag and bucket will do it.

Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
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Errol62
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by Errol62 »

Thanks mate


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In the Shed
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Re: Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

Post by In the Shed »

Errol62 wrote: Sun May 20, 2018 7:16 pm Gave the dash a clean and polish and fitted indicator telltale holdersImage
I decided to unravel front indicator circuitry out of another harness and add in to the existing rather than swap a whole loom. The rear indicator wires are included in the original loom although been butchered at the rear due in part to previous trailer plug instal.


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That dash cleaned up nice Clay. Looks like the dash near the ignition key has had a busy life.

Stephen
A day in the shed beats a day at work!
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