Errol62 wrote: Thu May 10, 2018 9:40 pmHang on NOT suitable for automotive use wtf?!
Enamel paints are a generic term... they have a wide variety of both solvents and colour components. Could be that the solvent used is compatable with petrol/oil, and that the paint will wash off if spills occur. Could also be that the paint is not suited for higher engine bay/brake temperatures.
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Can't be too bad. I used Rustguard rattlecan satin black for all my fiddly bits. The stuff is expensive, and despite being an epoxy enamel it does not dry very hard at all. Easy to chip/scratch, even after primer + 3 topcoats. I used Metalshield black from a can (havent tried rattlecan) for my floors. It dries hard, like old duco.
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Rear brakes all done bar bleeding. Happy with the handbrake with all parts replaced from handle to rear cable and brackets with various bits from my stash. Rplacing the handle required me to remove the dash cluster, which I need to do to fit indicator tell tales. Also the ignition and light switches. A few broken globes to replace and dodgy indicator wiring.
Replacing the beat up old shocks with donors from old EK 215 god rest her. Monroe has riders that haven’t done much duty. Bit slack they didn’t get the usual rattle can reco.
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getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Mustn’t forget to check the diff oil level and grease the front end. The outer tie rod end grease retainers are all but non existent so I may have to pop them. Possibly replace. I haven’t been able to check out the suspension and steering play really.
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getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Driver side front outer wheel bearing is nfg (not fit for galvanising). The roller faces are pitted. Inside race and cones appear fine. Between the backing plate and seal was full of dirt and grass seed husks, evidence of a life of Wimmera paddock work.
I am thinking of grabbing an outer from one of my spare front ends considering all else is in good shape. Passenger side appears to be fine. The older style felt seals look good.
I recall replacing cones previously on the bench with hammer and drift with no issues. Long time ago now.
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getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Gave the dash a clean and polish and fitted indicator telltale holders
I decided to unravel front indicator circuitry out of another harness and add in to the existing rather than swap a whole loom. The rear indicator wires are included in the original loom although been butchered at the rear due in part to previous trailer plug instal.
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getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
I tend to slop the Ranex on, then leave it for an hour. Its a chemical reaction (turns iron oxide into iron phosphate), so any excess wont "dry"... it just stays tacky. If you put it on nice, bright steel it doesn't do too much either. After an hour, I give it a rinse off then air dry. If its hard to rinse (like a floor pan), then a sloppy-wet rag and bucket will do it.
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Errol62 wrote: Sun May 20, 2018 7:16 pm
Gave the dash a clean and polish and fitted indicator telltale holders
I decided to unravel front indicator circuitry out of another harness and add in to the existing rather than swap a whole loom. The rear indicator wires are included in the original loom although been butchered at the rear due in part to previous trailer plug instal.
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That dash cleaned up nice Clay. Looks like the dash near the ignition key has had a busy life.