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What about a larger drill bit that you can lean on, and then sleeve it back down to the cable size?
Or use a cable barrel clamp? Like the one pictured below with a couple of large washers. Drill hole through valve handle roughly barrel clamp size, Bolt/washer/handle/washer/cable should all be held in place by the cable and large washers to spread the stress/rubbing on the cable.
Might need a longer bolt depending on the thickness of the washer/handle.

I can buy those barrel clamps (cable stops) readily, but can't picture in my head what the assembly would look like?

Cheers,
Harv

I use a similar setup on a smaller scale for choke on SU carbs. The clamped cable and an over sized bolt head effectively sandwiches the lever, preventing the body from escaping.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Does it HAVE to be stainless ??? What about making one out of brass ?

Blacky wrote: Thu Apr 11, 2024 10:21 pm Does it HAVE to be stainless ??? What about making one out of brass ?

That’s what I was thinking. What about silver steel?

Errol62 wrote: Thu Apr 11, 2024 6:10 pm I use a similar setup on a smaller scale for choke on SU carbs. The clamped cable and an over sized bolt head effectively sandwiches the lever, preventing the body from escaping.

Ahhh... thankyou. Now I can picture it. Something like this:


That might work, if the arm is wide enough to take the cable stopper body. I could replace the bolt with a fancy ARP one for neatness. I will do some tinkering on this one.

Blacky wrote: Thu Apr 11, 2024 10:21 pm Does it HAVE to be stainless ??? What about making one out of brass ?

In the Shed wrote: Thu Apr 11, 2024 11:03 pm That’s what I was thinking. What about silver steel?

It doesn't really have to be stainless. It needs to be rigid enough to never, ever let go of the cable, and needs to be harder than the aluminum arm that it passes through. I was trying to use the ARP bolt more so to match the rest of the FED. Every car I've owned so far has had mismatched bolts. The early ones had whatever bolts I could scrounge, still with their protective coating of 50 years of dirt and grease . The wagon got recycled bolts that I cleaned up with a wire wheel then covered in light machine oil. Looked good for a few years (and is a pleasure to take apart... everything runs up by fingers) but the oil wore off and it's back to daily-driver finish. I'm still finding bolts that the wire wheel threw across the shed at the speed of light For the FED, I figured there are not many fasteners, and it would be nice for them to all look alike. I've used ARP for just about everything I can. Just wish I knew how to drill the things.

Cheers,
Harv

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I think drilling an ARP bolt would be nigh on impossible, they are way too hard , maybe a custom machined bizzo would be the best option- send me a drawing and I will machine one up for ya

Not sure if this helps Harv,

My race car (lately garage art ) has a pull cable to the ouside of the vehicle to stop the ignition by officials and is mandated by cams.

It is the smplest way i could find to do it and it works ok. See photos.

It does however need to be reset manually.
Regards
Greg

Thanks gents. I've got one of those cable-stoppers on order, and will see if I can make it work.

You'd think that a cable-to-valve handle fitting would be common, but not so much in practice.

The ARP bolts are 44-47 Rockwell C. On Moh's scale of hardness, they appear here:
Hardness Material
1 Talc
2 Gypsum
3 Calcite
4 Fluorite
5 Apatite
6 Orthoclase feldspar
7 Quartz
8 Topaz
9 Corundum
10 Diamond
11 ARP bolts
892 Snapped-off Eziout

Cheers,
Harv

Rofl

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You crack me up Harv

Cylinder head-to-Norman and Norman supercharger to McGee injector manifolds arrived today, with thanks and respect to Mallaby Sheetmetal and Bain Racing. Need to remember how to use my BMC Mini pixie-fingers. Teaser photos below:


Suddenly the real estate on the (normally) boring side of a grey motor got scarce.

Onwards and upwards.

Cheers,
Harv

BRING.
IT.
ON.