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Jonty wrote: Fri Dec 14, 2018 8:29 am Thanks for the pics of motor removal - will make up for my lack of documenting the process when I come to put my motor back in!


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No worries Jonty, I hope it helps

ardiesse wrote: Thu Dec 13, 2018 8:27 pm John,

The gearshift rod isn't the same diameter everywhere. The diameter where the split pin goes through will be a good guide. I'm guessing 3/8". And 5/16" for the other selector rod, I think. The EK shifter lever was revised to include a rubber trunnion. If you can scrounge one up, it'd be way better (or drill your FB lever out to take the trunnion).

Thanks Rob, I’ll look into that.

You've had the engine running previously, haven't you? Anyway, now that the engine and gearbox are out, you'd be nuts not to take the gearbox and flywheel off and replace the rear welch plug in the block.

Rob

Geeezzz Rob, you really know how to make me feel guilty. Ok, ok, I’ll change the friggin’ wench plug!

Cheers,

John

Here’re a few more photos I missed of the headlight refurb. I used this stuff and CLR previously to clean off the stubborn brown bulldust on much of the chrome work. It also worked a treat on the headlight wiring, the headlights themselves and the gaskets (which I ended up replacing with new ones).










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Great work mate.

I use that stuff around the house as well, it’s good gear.

I’m looking forward to seeing this one on the road.

Ric.

[/quote]
Thanks Clay and fair call about the liquid fuel sources. It’s not their normal place of residence, but I’d just plonked them there after a session of ride-on mowing and chainsawing - slack, I know.[/quote]

Rather a suggestion how to make room in the shed than a criticism. I love a bonfire, in the back yard of course.


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I’ve been preparing for major fender repairs so, to help alignment and shaping when making the new sections, I needed to align the left hand driver’s door. First up was to remove the door card which required a door handle removal tool. The manual shows how to make one so into it.





I was having trouble dislodging the spring retainer at first until I realised the tool had to fit between the handle and bearing plate which my old eyes didn’t see at first.





The tool needs to be in line with the handle



When you push the tool, it moves the retainer from here ....



.... to here



The “ears” you can see in the first shot are what holds the handle on by lodging in a groove in the pivot pin



To remove the door card, I used s large screwdriver to prise out the clips from the door



On Special models, there’s also a screw to remove at the rear of the armrest.



And, of course, there’s always one bastard that spoils the party - this one was bent inside the door and, as luck would have it, the door and window mechanisms wouldn’t let me get my hand inside to help out.



I damaged it while applying some butchery and there were another couple missing, so I’ll need to get some replacements.

To reposition the door, the three top hinge bolts



and three bottom hinge bolts need to be loosened



I used a pencil to mark the current position and figured I had to move the door back about 2mm and up about 1mm. I didn’t get any before shots but the front and back gaps were now even and the door wasn’t scrubbing the visor when opening it



By lifting the door, the top of the door where it meets the fender also flows evenly



Next was to make a new gasket that fits between the rear of the fender and the car body. after grinding off a rust frozen bolt that still had a bit of fender stuck to it



The original was broken in about 4 places and hard and dry



I bought some 2mm sheet rubber from Clarke’s and split it lengthwise to get a piece for each side, then made a 1/2” punch by drilling into 1/2” tube to get a sharp edge.





To mark the hole positions, I put the rubber in place and marked the spot by pushing a 1/2” bolt into the hole



I started at the top and worked my way down, putting a bolt in each hole as I went to maintain position.



When the holes were done, I cut the sheet to shape with scissors



Cheers,

John


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The 4 bolts that hold the rear of the front fender on, use a special cupped washer that squashes a rubber grommet thingy into the 1/2” hole of the car body. Three of these washers are missing



The grommets were also in poor nick,



To prevent losing parts in the body cavity, I used a bit of wire through the Wallace and Grommet before pushing them out



After measuring up, I went and bought some rubber door stops from the big green toyshop.



The door stops conveniently already had a 6mm hole in them (nice & tight for the 1/4” bolt that goes through them), so I attached a long 1/4”bolt for mounting in the lathe. A normal lathe cutting tool isn’t much chop on rubber, so I mounted the extension piece of my el cheapo die grinder in the tool holder and used a cutting disc to slice into the rubber, with the lathe running in reverse.





They came up pretty good.



The first one probably took me over half an hour to make, but I got it down to a few minutes by the time I got to the last one. Also, one of the discs shattered and headed straight for my left eyeball. Luckily it ricocheted off my safety eyewear and no harm done. I contemplated for a moment on what could’ve happened if I didn’t have the protective gear on - yuk!!!

Next was the washers. After facing off some round stock, I centre drilled for a 1/4” through drill, then used a large drill to make room for a boring bar.







Turned the outer diameter to 15/16” ...



... and bored the inside to 13/16” for a depth of 11/64”.





I used a parting tool to start with, then finished off with a hacksaw before spinning the piece around and facing off the other side





The original washers have rounded shoulders from being pressed into shape, so I put a small bevel on in the lathe before chucking the piece in a drill and using a grinding stone to finish off.





Here’s two originals at the top and the three newbies below them



and the 8 grommets, with some inserted into the washers



Cheers,

John


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Very cool post John - thanks for taking the time.

59wagon wrote: Fri Jan 25, 2019 2:38 am The tool needs to be in line with the handle

If you try really hard, you can put those clips on back to front. Then the tool needs to be in line with the "round side" of the handle. OF course, you don't work that out until you have spent an hour or so trying to get the damn thing off without damaging the door card, not realising the clip is reversed. Don't ask how I know

59wagon wrote: Fri Jan 25, 2019 3:32 am To prevent losing parts in the body cavity, I used a bit of wire through the Wallace and Grommet before pushing them out

You're supposed to drop the grommets, and at least one cup washer down the A-pillar. You then try fishing them out with a bit of bent wire, only to push them further down and along the sill. They then make great rattly noises, until they settle into the NASCO mud/rust living in the bottom of the sill. My father, being a smart bugger, puts a bit of rag down into the A-pillar before taking off the grommets/cup washers. The dropped stuff then just lies on the rag. Takes all the fun out of it .

Cheers,
Harv

You amaze me John. Billet guard washers! I’ve managed to salvage enough of these to reuse from the various cars I’ve dissembled. With the ute I’ve left the bolts engaged in the intact outer gasket. I generally manage to lose the odd socket down the a pillar as well as the washers.

It’s about time someone supplied replacement door seals with the gasket part integrated as per factory.


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Harv wrote: Fri Jan 25, 2019 6:50 am If you try really hard, you can put those clips on back to front. Then the tool needs to be in line with the "round side" of the handle. OF course, you don't work that out until you have spent an hour or so trying to get the damn thing off without damaging the door card, not realising the clip is reversed. Don't ask how I know

Thanks for the tip Harv, I'll try and remember that when reassembling. I was wondering if something like that was happening until I realised I had the tool on the wrong side of the bearing plate That's what prompted using the length of wire.

Harv wrote: Fri Jan 25, 2019 6:50 amYou're supposed to drop the grommets, and at least one cup washer down the A-pillar. You then try fishing them out with a bit of bent wire, only to push them further down and along the sill. They then make great rattly noises, until they settle into the NASCO mud/rust living in the bottom of the sill. My father, being a smart bugger, puts a bit of rag down into the A-pillar before taking off the grommets/cup washers. The dropped stuff then just lies on the rag. Takes all the fun out of it .

I did drop one of the bolts down the pillar - does that count? I tried for a while with a magnet on a flexible stick to get it out but my only return was rust flakes

Also thanks for the rag tip from your clever old man - I'll do that when I reassemble as I think it's going to be a lot more fiddly going back in.

Cheers,

John

Errol62 wrote: Fri Jan 25, 2019 10:13 am I generally manage to lose the odd socket down the a pillar as well as the washers.

It’s about time someone supplied replacement door seals with the gasket part integrated as per factory.

Yep, easy to do Clay. I think we both need to use Harv's Dad's rag trick in future!

So are you saying that the inner door seal and fender gasket came as one piece from factory? Mine were touching but separated - probably split from each other over the years as the rubber dried out. Perhaps I'll run a bead of mastic between the two if and when I replace the door seal (after rego )

Cheers,

John

Yes John. The front edge of the rubber is slightly prone to pulling out due to contacting the door frame on closing. There has been some discussion recently on whether the seals are available with the gasket part integrated as I mentioned before.

I had no trouble retrieving my lost bits in the a pillar bottoms via the “nasco” rust hole that seems to have been present in each car I’ve had. Harv’s car must have had an optional extra hole installed between a pillar and sill, as there is a dividing panel on the rear of the a pillar bottom from factory.


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Errol62 wrote: Fri Jan 25, 2019 1:03 pm Harv’s car must have had an optional extra hole installed between a pillar and sill, as there is a dividing panel on the rear of the a pillar bottom from factory.

Looks like I got the same optional extra hole as Harv

The FB, Graces EK ute and my EK wagon all have the optional A-pillar hole (and bolts/sockets/washers dropped in them ).

Cheers,
Harv

Hey John,
Nice work there, as always. Those darn door handle springs are temperamental to get off and back on! They usually end up flying off across the shed floor never to be found again!

Enjoy reading and seeing your lathe antics too, as I like to get on the Myford and spin something up.

Regards
Stephen