harvs ek 327 wagon

[EK283]

Ah yes,

Good observation Mr FJWALLY

I have had this set up engineered before without issue although this time my spring eyes are reversed and I have tall spring saddles welded on the diff.

I think to be safe I will just add an aluminium block on the welded on stops and give it 20mm to compress on.

When I stripped the car down the bump stops appeared to be lacking of any clash !

Thanks Guys I will soldier on.

Regards Greg

[Errol62]

Big diff (although don’t think the BW is that big) and lowering. I can see it could be an issue. I don’t suppose there is any room to recess the floor for clearance above the centre. This being a fairly common conversion I’m surprised it hasn’t come up previously. Having toasted the odd banjo myself I’ve thought about the BW option and I’m therefore keen to understand the best solution to this.


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[Harv]

I managed to get some better measurements of the diff clearance for the wagon. I also took the same measurements from Grace’s bog-stock EK ute, to give us something to compare to. The ute is a 6-leaf rear, whilst the wagon is a 7-leaf rear (and a different body shape), but it gives some idea.

For the clearance to the bump stops…
Diff tube diameter: 71mm wagon, 73mm ute (ie the Borg Warner 78 diff in the wagon gives me 2mm more clearance than a standard banjo diff).
Spacer between diff tube and leaf pack: 30mm wagon, 8mm ute (ie when V6 Conversions made the diff spacers, I lost 22mm of clearance).

So all up (in theory) the distance between the diff tube top and the subframe should be 20mm closer in the wagon. Measuring up shows 200mm in the wagon, and 205mm in the ute (ie the wagon is 5mm closer). This could the difference in leaf packs, or weight in the rear of the two vehicles.

Now for the bit that is going to hit:
Diff pumpkin diameter: 260mm wagon, 230mm ute (ie the Borg Warner 78 diff in the wagon gives me 15mm less clearance to the floor than a standard banjo diff).

So I lost 15mm, plus the 22mm of spacer, less 2mm of tube diameter… so all up the wagon diff pumpkin should be 35mm closer to the floor than the banjo. Measuring up shows that the diff pumpkin to the floor is 140mm in the wagon and 190mm in the ute. This is 50mm, though the ute and wagon floors may be different.

Big picture – my diff can move only 140mm before the pumpkin bottoms out. There is 200mm between the diff tube and the subframe. Standard bump stops are 65mm (less squish), so my new diff would bottom out with only 5mm of standard bumpstop squish.

Cheers,
Harv

[EK283]

Good detective work Harv,

The for$ XB diff that I got for my car had a bump stop on the snout of the diff probably for tramp or diff wind up, maybe you can do something like that ??

I'm putting a huge tank behind my diff hopefully the engineer is asleep when I eventually go and see him .Ha Ha

Like I said before though, with 7 leaves of spring I doubt the diff will ever bottom out.

Anyway there is many ways to skin a cat !!!!

Regards Greg

[Harv]

Got a tiny bit more done on the wagon, though Grace's ute has been taking up most of my spare time.

Bought a new hoodlining from Rares some time ago, and transferred the bows across from the old one (old hoodlining was brittle... the fabric holding the bows in was shot). Hung the first set of "toothed roof grippers" onto the bows, and made a newby mistake... did the rear-most one first. It means you can't get at the front-most set of "toothed roof grippers". Pulled it out, hung the front then the back.

Tried to stretch the lining out, but couldn't get it to come out enough to overlap the windscreen or window frame edges (it would touch the edge, but not overlap for gluing). Put some bulldog clips on it anyway, and left it hanging in my hot shed for a fortnight. The hoodlining settled a bit, and when I returned to it I could now get it to overlap. Happy days.

Ended up masking the window openings, then using Kwikgrip contact adhesive (in a spray can from Woolies) to spray the openings and headliner. Worked well, and managed to only get the glue where it was needed (I normally use gorilla snot in a can anytime I need contact cement, and make a hell of a mess ).

Went in OK, but was not happy with the rearmost edge (top of the tailgate). There is another "toothed roof gripper" there, but it would not grab the hoodlining adequately.... it is under quite some tension, and the glue wanted to let go. Ended up glueing to the panelwork behind the "toothed roof gripper", and used the tailgate hinges to hold the lining in place. Its not factory, but strangely the Rares hoodlining seems to be shaped perfectly to do this (the only part of the whole hoodlining with excess cloth).

Aiming to get the windscreen back in the weekend after next (do the ute one too)... wish me luck.

Cheers,
Harv

[FireKraka]

Good Luck

Neil

[59wagon]

The hood lining would make a big difference to looks - any pic's?

Yeh, good luck with the windscreen. Never done it myself, but lotsa discussion on here lately. Pictures of the process would be great, too

Cheers,

John

[Errol62]

Good working the lining Harv. Now you know it will be nice and tight and not sag. I’ve only ever done this with a used lining.


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[Harv]

Got the bump stops made after much thinking:

bump stops.JPG (823.67 KiB) Viewed 503 times

Suits special 1962 Monaro Nasco Borg Warner suspension package, western Sydney dealers exclusive option.

They are a little long (fore/aft), though I can trim them later... main aim at this stage is to convince the engineer that the diff will hit them (cant miss these ones), and that suspension travel has been limited enough to stop the diff pumpkin coming through the floor (all good there too). Polyurethane is painful to machine - moves around like jelly, then tries to melt any time you abuse it.

Cheers,
Harv

[Errol62]

Look forward to seeing the things installed Harv. Very resourceful.


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[EK283]

Hi Harv,

Did you fit the windscreen yet and if so was it laminated or original ?

Regards Greg

[Harv]

Yep, windscreen fitted. Original safety glass.

Tried doing it myself with Dad's help, gave up after getting mastic everywhere. Was promised by NRMA Glass that they could do it, only to have them bail out after sighting the job. . Ended up getting one of the FE/FC gentlemen (ex-windscreen fitter) to put it in (plus the two screens on Grace's ute).

Cheers,
Harv

[Blacky]

Did you use a Rares rubber or a Betta rubber Harv ? We are going through the usual windscreen pain on my mates FB ATM

[Harv]

I bought a Bettter rubber for the ute. Fitted beautifully.

I bought a Rares rubber for the wagon. Only had two of the four corners moulded on - the two long-radius corners were not moulded at all. The rubber was waaay too long - had about 1.5" of slack, even with the stainless in place.

Took the Rares rubber back, and bought another Better rubber. It fit well too.

Cheers,
Harv

[Blacky]

I bought a Bettter rubber for the ute. Fitted beautifully.

I bought a Rares rubber for the wagon. Only had two of the four corners moulded on - the two long-radius corners were not moulded at all. The rubber was waaay too long - had about 1.5" of slack, even with the stainless in place.

Took the Rares rubber back, and bought another Better rubber. It fit well too.

Cheers,
Harv

Just as I though mate, thanks - will be interesting to see if they will take them back covered in mastic hopefully if enough of them get returned they will look at improving their product